Rear End Play 0.002, any concerns?

PonchoMan

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Jul 5, 2018
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On my 200-4R I’m setting up the rear end play and have 2 selective washers (0.167 and 0.158). I have 0.167 in and my end play is 0.002, some sources indicate that is absolute minimum, other sources indicate a few more thousandths. This is a MAX effort, full manual, rollerized billet build. What could be the downside to min clearance, lube issues? I know there some opinions on this, what are your thoughts? What’s the downside to tight clearances and what have you seen happen because of it? Thanks in advance!
 

gunzandgearz

gearzandgunz
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that's way too tight you need at least four thousandths and that's even on the tight side .004 to .010 is within spec but .005 too .007 is where I would put it especially with it being a high-end build and will probably build a lot of heat
 
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TexasT

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as above things expand when heated and the trans oil needs a place to be to lube and cool the components. A piece of glass and some fine grit paper can get that selective to give some clearance.
 
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PonchoMan

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as above things expand when heated and the trans oil needs a place to be to lube and cool the components. A piece of glass and some fine grit paper can get that selective to give some clearance.
Thanks! I thought I might be able to just take off a few thousandths, you confirmed it! I appreciate it!
 

TexasT

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are you assembling the lower section on the bench? Or trying to do it and measure in the case? I find it much easier on the bench. .
 
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INEEDAGN

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So at .002 you should be pushing against spring tension just to get the snap ring installed. The spring tension comes from the play in the snap ring groove in the low/rev support and you are pushing against the spring to take up that slack. Is that what’s happening or is it .002 without pushing on it?
 
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PonchoMan

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The feeler gauge goes in but it takes a little force. I’m going to take a few thou off the selective just for breathing room.
 

PonchoMan

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So at .002 you should be pushing against spring tension just to get the snap ring installed. The spring tension comes from the play in the snap ring groove in the low/rev support and you are pushing against the spring to take up that slack. Is that what’s happening or is it .002 without pushing on it?
I don’t have to push on it to get the feeler in but it doesn’t just slide in either.
 

gunzandgearz

gearzandgunz
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.002 is too tight do what you want but it's too tight doesn't matter if you have a bearing setup or not and as far as the feeler Guage it should be just a slight drag
 

gunzandgearz

gearzandgunz
Aug 24, 2015
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Not trying to bust anybody's chops on here or argue with anybody but the fact is the bearings only replace the actual thrust washers not the selective washers which are the washers that actually sets up all your clearances in a transmission you still have to have clearance even with a bearing style transmission so your clearance still needs to be way more than .002 you still set the transmission up just like you would if it didn't have the bearings in it I hope this helps
 
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PonchoMan

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Thanks for all of your advice fellas! Per Texas T I was able to massage a few thousandths off and now I have .005 end play! Thanks again guys!
 
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PonchoMan

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are you assembling the lower section on the bench? Or trying to do it and measure in the case? I find it much easier on the bench. .
Thanks again for your advice Texas T. On another note I was reading some posts about manual VBs and you commented that you have had issues in the past with the TCI units being finicky with pressure and sometimes locking up the driveshaft on the 1-2 shift. I’m curious if you always found the same problem or did it vary between setups? I’m putting one in on my build with a high pressure pump kit. Thanks in advance!
 

TexasT

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is it a constant pressure vb? If so and it isn't a race only I would think that over again. The pump isn't very robust and by having it at full pressure, all the time it is hard on parts. GM spent countless dollars and ford did too on the variable pressure system and when setup correctly works well imo.
 

PonchoMan

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is it a constant pressure vb? If so and it isn't a race only I would think that over again. The pump isn't very robust and by having it at full pressure, all the time it is hard on parts. GM spent countless dollars and ford did too on the variable pressure system and when setup correctly works well imo.
Yes it’s the TCI constant pressure manual VB, street/strip car with less than 3000 miles per year. Just curious if it was a plaguing problem with the VB like a valve would always be sticking or something else like that that I could look out for.
 

TexasT

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I'm not a fan of constant pressure on a pump that is already not very robust. https://turbobuick.com/threads/10-vane-or-not.462187/ high pressure is hard on the parts. Subjecting them to high pressure all the time is not worth the"sqeeze" (gains) imo. I'm no guru but I have been fooling with these cars and trans since I bought mine new, so like that insurance commercial, I've seen a few things. Your trans, your call.
 
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