Rear Brake upgrade

HotAirGN

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2002
My rear brakes are stock and I want to upgrade them, wondering what are some good pads and the part number for the s10 cylinders. Search brings up nothing.
 
Brake upgrade

Nobody can help this guy? OK, I'll try. You want rear wheel cylinders off of a MANUAL (no power booster) brake S-10 truck about 1989 vintage, I think. Also guys are buying 2 sets of the cheapest (soft linings, 1 year warranty) rear shoes and using the 4 secondary (longest or rearmost) shoes. You have to be careful in panic stop situations as the rear drum brakes might lock up. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
Cheers.
 
PartPriceQuantityTotal
1985 CHEVROLET S10 PICKUP 2.5L 151cid L4
Brake & Wheel Hub : Wheel Cylinder
Related Parts
AWAGNER WC110261 {#F110261}

RAYBESTOS 514PG {#472NR, 472PG, 514NR}
 
His question is better answered by calling a brake pad vendor and seeing who has shoes with better compounds available. Most of them (Hawk, Porterfield, EBC) can re-line a set of shoes with whatever compound you want. Match the rear to the front and call it a day.

The S10 cylinders are valuable if you're drag racing and need the holding power at the line. They're going to cause rear lockup problems on a street car if you don't complement them with an adjustable prop valve... which will lower the line pressure to the point where you lose the advantage of the larger cylinder.
 
My rear brakes are stock and I want to upgrade them, wondering what are some good pads and the part number for the s10 cylinders. Search brings up nothing.

Since the front brakes do 75-80% of the load, up-grading the rears does not help much.

Having done a few front brakes with 4 piston Baer units, you will have MUCH more over all braking power with those!
 
S10 will lock on the street.I live in Hawaii and mostly drive car to the Dragstrip,but when it rains and it dose a lot drive with care.not a good upgrade for DD in wet roads.
 
I have never had any issues with the rear brakes locking up on me I have the bigger wheel cylinder as well . I used one long shoe and one short
 
Also like nice said you should consider doing the front brakes. I did the blazer swap and it was a huge difference. I got the parts from the junk yard and bought a caliper rebuild kit
 

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By changing wheel cylinder you have upset the factory hard work of a perfect balance of braking under all possible conditions,all four corners of the car must work in harmony,more braking on the frount is less of a safety issue, try to make it turn in a corner with to much frount brake, as stated above adjustable valve is needed to try to get the balance back
 
By changing wheel cylinder you have upset the factory hard work of a perfect balance of braking under all possible conditions,all four corners of the car must work in harmony,more braking on the frount is less of a safety issue, try to make it turn in a corner with to much frount brake, as stated above adjustable valve is needed to try to get the balance back


Agreed 100%.
I installed the larger S-10 (manual) rear brake cylinders and both longer leading shoes, however at the same time installed Blazer Dual Piston Brake set up / spindles. Installed HydroBoost brake system with Wilwood adjustable brake proportioning valve to ensure proper front / rear brake bias. Works like a charm! No problems with rear brake lock up this way.

Wilwood1.JPG
 
I put the S 10 blazer front brakes and the S 10 rear brake cylinders on my 2 HA cars
years ago. I love the better braking! Never any brake lock up problems. If you do the calculations,
it appears to me the results of the changes pretty much balances out, but I am NO expert.
Just my $.02 worth!
 
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