Question For John Spina...

strikeeagle

New Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2001
or anyone else who might know...

My OEM fan resistor and wiring are fubar, but the fan is good.

Is there a (new) PnP wiring harness that would eliminate the resistor wiring and allow the fan to (presumably) run on high speed only?

If not, what are my options?

Thanks for your help.

strike
 
Is it only the harness from the plug to the fan that's FUBAR?


If you want High only, just get their stock replacement and hook directly to the fan without using the resistor. that'll still use both factory relays, but the fan will be High only.

I had a FUBAR harness on that side, but I just sprung for the $8 resistor (chrysler ignition part from Autozone) and kept dual speed. Their replacement harness was nice.
 
Yes, it's only the portion of the wiring harness that mounts to the fan and includes the resistor. So far as I know the balance, including the relays, is good.

So if Caspers sells a PnP wiring harness that replaces all that and consequently the fan runs on high speed only I guess I'll opt for that? Unless the car would run too cold? But noise is not an issue with my buddy.

Madcat - by any chance do you have a Caspers part number handy?

Thanks.

strike
 
Madcat,

What is the part number for the Autozone resistor and how does it mount?

Thanks again.

strike
 
Madcat,

What is the part number for the Autozone resistor and how does it mount?

Thanks again.

strike

Don't remember the part# for it. I got it at Advance Auto... Autozone should have them too.

They had to open up the Ign. Resistor photo guide and I just picked the right one. I had used them before to drop the voltage on the coil wire for my Buick 455 when it was in my 85 Cutlass. So I knew what it looked like:biggrin: IF I remember correctly... it's for a early 70's Chrysler... I think all of them used the same one.

It mounts right where the stock one does, just use a longer screw/bolt (I had one laying around). Doesn't look OEM, but works great.

When I get my Chip back from TurboTweak, I'll run it and take a voltage reading from it when it's on low. That'll tell you (me too) exactly how close it is to the Factory one.

Here's a pic:
 

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