pw brake fuse
- Thread starter humberto
- Start date
Most likely time for a new accumulator, and if you've let this go on too long, probably time for a whole new Power Master. The new motor is ONLY available from Hank Terry. A new motor and a new accumulator will cost more than a rebuilt PM from Autozone, or from one of the Buick vendors, like Jack Cotton, or Casper's.
progress1vebmx
Asian man #1
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2002
Instead of getting a rebuilt PM, go with vacuum =x
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Page 8A-31-0 wiring diagram for the Turbo Vin 7 Fans.
Power brake fuse wiring goes right to the delay relay power terminal and then over to the power master brake relay, rest of diagram is on page 8A-46-0 for the brake system which also shows the connection to the coolant fan delay relay.
Big fat red wires.
When does the fuse blow? As soon as you put one in? Or when the brakes are trying to cycle the pump?
If it blows immediately as soon as you put one in the fuse panel, unplug the main power master plug and try another fuse and see if it holds.
Power brake fuse wiring goes right to the delay relay power terminal and then over to the power master brake relay, rest of diagram is on page 8A-46-0 for the brake system which also shows the connection to the coolant fan delay relay.
Big fat red wires.
When does the fuse blow? As soon as you put one in? Or when the brakes are trying to cycle the pump?
If it blows immediately as soon as you put one in the fuse panel, unplug the main power master plug and try another fuse and see if it holds.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Yes I meant the powermaster main connector.
Not sure if your condition is intermittant or just the powermaster pump.
Might as well try a fuse in there with the connector unplugged.
I'd start the car and idle it but DON'T GO ANYWHERE.
Just want to move the wires around a bit if the fuse holds plug the pump connector back in and see if it blows at that point.
Not sure if your condition is intermittant or just the powermaster pump.
Might as well try a fuse in there with the connector unplugged.
I'd start the car and idle it but DON'T GO ANYWHERE.
Just want to move the wires around a bit if the fuse holds plug the pump connector back in and see if it blows at that point.
texasturbo
Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2001
Your pressure switch might be bad!!! Do this to check it. without the key on, pump your brakes 10 times or more to replease the pressure in the system. With everything plugged in and a new fuse in place, just turn the ignition key on, do not start the car and listen for the pump to begin pressurizing the accumulator. As pressure builds, you should hear the pump begin to strain under the pressure, then shut off about 15 seconds or so later, if you here it cut off then on again, so on and so on, or never shut off at all and the pump sounds like it is really getting pulled down, I would say the pressure switch is bad hence overloading the fuse and causing it to pop. If the motor runs all the time and does not sound like it is pressurizing anything, maybe the pump is going out or the accumulator and mastercylinder assm. have a problem. just my 2 cents. Let me know if you have questions....
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
Also, if the motor runs all the time, it is possible that the check valve on the power assist side of the master cylinder is defective. This would neccessitate rebuilding the master cylinder. The factory manual has a very detailed procedure for testing the powermaster unit. But you'll need to build an adapter to hook a set of brake guages to (in series with your pressure switch). Email me if you want to go that route.
