Evaddave 87gn
Always learning...
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2005
Sub'd
push lock vacuum lines
- Thread starter asloan5
- Start date
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
So my setup uses the 1” dog house spacer . It originally just came with the 2 1/2” npt holes in the rear where I placed my air temp sensor and my vacuum source for my brakes which is pretty important. Then I drilled and tapped 4 1/8” npt holes in the front for my fuel pressure , blow off valve , boost reference, boost gauge . Here are a couple pics . I have used push lock fittings everywhere. All 1/8” and 1/4” line
I only have a couple more than what I have already posted. One shows PCV hook up, the second shows the vacuum manifold. From the block there are the vacuum brakes, boost gauge, MAP, and FPR. One line from the spacer feeds the manifold
Attachments
Thank you. Did you need an adapter to connect the boost gauge?
Coach
Bo ran away with my goat :(
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2015
I went this route. The push-lock fittings will need replaced from the heat after time....but how much time??? No one can answer that. The compressed engine bay heat will deteriorate them, over time as they do on our high temp molding machines. The small plastic retainer inside crumbles and then the line blows off....
If this happens under boost....could suck.
I run Cruise Control, Alky MAP, XFI MAP, Red's Volt Boosters for Alt and Double Pumper, Boost Gauge, and Fuel Pressure Reg.
Gene Van Horn
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2013
That engine is sick dude.
Yupp .. its not a matter of If .. its a matter of WHEN .. no idea why people run the push lock stuff.. far better ways to do it and you just posted one
No, I ordered a smaller push lock fittings so it fit perfectly.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
The previous owner of my current car, converted all vacuum block distribution lines over to pneumatic push to connect nylon tubing.
I recently used the same type of fittings on my wastegate and boost controller and will be keeping an eye on the condition and longevity of them. IE: Watching boost like a hawk. The 1/4" nylon tubing I went with, has a very high temp rating and these nickle plate brass fittings have SS internals. I couldn't see any plastic internals, but they might have some plastic in them. Heat deterioration / break down, was a thought when I chose these.
Here's some pics.
-Patrick-
I recently used the same type of fittings on my wastegate and boost controller and will be keeping an eye on the condition and longevity of them. IE: Watching boost like a hawk. The 1/4" nylon tubing I went with, has a very high temp rating and these nickle plate brass fittings have SS internals. I couldn't see any plastic internals, but they might have some plastic in them. Heat deterioration / break down, was a thought when I chose these.
Here's some pics.
-Patrick-
Attachments
They will leak... its just a matter of time ... .25 psi here .. then .5 psi .. then 1-2 psi and so on
If you don't stay after it you'll just see a difference in performance until finally the leak is big enough to really create issues
Many.. on a few different applications.. not on a TB as i wont use them
But even on non critical applications.. they will start to leak after heat soaking .. if you dont run the car often then probably be a bit before you see it
Question is .. just how often are you checking it and how big of a leak are you looking for?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Remote vac block.
I used a length of alum bar stock. I drilled it thru, lengthwise, and pipe tapped the ends. I then cross drilled, to break into the main bore.
The ends are pipe threaded.
I have 2 MAP sensors mtd on the top face, where the x drilled ports are. The x drilled ports are chamfered to allow an o'ring to seal. The face of the block is drilled for retainer screws. # 6, AIRC. 1 brick sensor for the Autometer gauges, the other for the Holley system. The ports on a MAP sensor should point "down", so as to minimize moisture trapping. If you use the brick style, the plug will also be facing down, so wires aren't sticking up.
I used an o'ring on the brick style, and the original seal on the late mdl 3 bar. IE: LS engine.
This block is mounted on the firewall, and plumbed to the back of the intake w/ 1/4" Fragola An hose/fittings.
It also feeds vac/boost to the fpr.
I used a length of alum bar stock. I drilled it thru, lengthwise, and pipe tapped the ends. I then cross drilled, to break into the main bore.
The ends are pipe threaded.
I have 2 MAP sensors mtd on the top face, where the x drilled ports are. The x drilled ports are chamfered to allow an o'ring to seal. The face of the block is drilled for retainer screws. # 6, AIRC. 1 brick sensor for the Autometer gauges, the other for the Holley system. The ports on a MAP sensor should point "down", so as to minimize moisture trapping. If you use the brick style, the plug will also be facing down, so wires aren't sticking up.
I used an o'ring on the brick style, and the original seal on the late mdl 3 bar. IE: LS engine.
This block is mounted on the firewall, and plumbed to the back of the intake w/ 1/4" Fragola An hose/fittings.
It also feeds vac/boost to the fpr.
I’ll hook the smoke machine up and see what I get. Last time I hooked the smoke machine up, 3 lower O rings on passenger side injectors were leaking. Who would have thought that could happen? Well it did. Anything can spring a leak.
I’m not concerned with the push lock fittings becoming an issue, it’s easy to keep an eye on things. I have more concern depending on rubber vac lines and zip ties holding boost pressure.
Yupp.. those same orings that are on the injectors.. are in the push loc fittings ... any tight bends on the lines also cause leaks
Just something to keep an eye on
