Pulling heads in car, min. needed to come off?
- Thread starter TulsaGN
- Start date
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
Most of issues are because there's no body on the frame when the factory puts the driveline in. They have all the goodies to make it fun and easy. Lol
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
You gotta love the studs that clamp random stuff. The first fastener was torqued down nice then the next guy zips on the nut on top with an impact making them want to come off as a unitized kind of deal.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Okay that makes sense great idea for a product, cable relocation brackets for the harness and cable. 
It seems the factory used a line of RTV along the bottom of the rubber pieces (see Pic.) Felpro says no lines along the gasket if I am reading it right, only in the corners. Thoughts?
It seems the factory used a line of RTV along the bottom of the rubber pieces (see Pic.) Felpro says no lines along the gasket if I am reading it right, only in the corners. Thoughts?
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
If you clean off the surfaces with brake cleaner you help insure success. I'd use a thin layer of silicone on the whole end seal if you want to use them. Not everyone likes them. Some use a thick bead of silicone instead of the seal. If it was factory, it doesn't hurt to do what they did. I don't think I helped, lol.
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
Ok I can help now. Using the end seals or not depends on if you think there is room for them to live there happily. Meaning test fit the intake without them and decide. Many setups by now have had things milled and stuff fits differently. If yours is still stock with factory machine work use them and do what the factory did it should be fine.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Makes sense now, I always thought skip the seal parts were for the rear main rubber aftermarket ones lol.
Nothings milled, the supplied seals look okay similar to stock, haven't test fit one yet still cleaning crap.
Motor is a lot cleaner on the inside than the outside...
Nothings milled, the supplied seals look okay similar to stock, haven't test fit one yet still cleaning crap.
Motor is a lot cleaner on the inside than the outside...
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
No it's about an inch and a quarter with 1/8" thickness, probably NA stuff. Not a PVC grommet either but since I did mine a couple of years ago and it looks fine I'm not touching that.
Head is back on and torqued that was fun trying to get 80 lbs. torqued with a 1/2" socket on those bolts.
Somebody should do a video, make that a pictorial step by step of all this crap, I'm working way too slow as it is to do it...
Had to go to the auto. parts store to get the tap, 7/16-14? not really normal in the old regular tap world....
Got some special fuel injection cleaner that ate off most of my valve and combustion chamber deposits, small wire brush 2 applications and wipe out the crud with a rag then brakeclean then denatured alky., bake in the hot sun to dry.
Can't wait to try to get that blue gasket in there when it cools off a bit.
Head is back on and torqued that was fun trying to get 80 lbs. torqued with a 1/2" socket on those bolts.
Somebody should do a video, make that a pictorial step by step of all this crap, I'm working way too slow as it is to do it...
Had to go to the auto. parts store to get the tap, 7/16-14? not really normal in the old regular tap world....
Got some special fuel injection cleaner that ate off most of my valve and combustion chamber deposits, small wire brush 2 applications and wipe out the crud with a rag then brakeclean then denatured alky., bake in the hot sun to dry.
Can't wait to try to get that blue gasket in there when it cools off a bit.
1KWIKSIX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2007
Yup
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
That ain't in the intake...
I figured out how the intake gasket works yeah!
Snapped right in place on its own, thought I was gonna have to bend the crap out of it....
Another mystery solved I'm sure it will leak though....
Rest of the work is to try to find bolts for all the holes left, and cable tie all the broken harness latches etc.
I'm still right on target for Labor Day.
I figured out how the intake gasket works yeah!
Snapped right in place on its own, thought I was gonna have to bend the crap out of it....
Another mystery solved I'm sure it will leak though....
Rest of the work is to try to find bolts for all the holes left, and cable tie all the broken harness latches etc.
I'm still right on target for Labor Day.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Just a little annotation here for what I did to a stock Buick built motor.
Chemicals Used: Brake Clean (4) cans, Engine Degreaser (1) can, Fuel Injection Cleaner Liqui. Moly (1) can, Permatex Sensor Safe RTV gasket maker (1) tube, Rags lots of them...
Parts Used for (1) Gasket Repair: Head Gasket GM or Fel-pro Stock Style (1)
Intake Gasket w/seals Fel-pro see comments above)
Valve Cover Gasket (1)
Throttle Body Gasket (If Necessary)
Vac. Block Gasket (If Necessary)
7/16-14 Tap (Available in most parts stores but not all)
O-Rings Fuel Feed and Return (If Necessary)
ARP bolt lube and thread sealer (1) tube each, or your desired equivalent.
Process for what I had to do mostly in order...
A. Drain Radiator, remove Upper Rad. hose, all water pump hoses into intake.
1. Remove Belt and (+) Battery Cable(s) too many (-) negative connections to do that one dual posts etc.
2. Alternator Remove, Bag rear bolt, top bolt and nut, and stud, make dwg. for proper re-intstall of intercooler bracket, rad. hose bracket, etc. Keep rear (+) taped up and out of the way, put nut on stud of alt.
3. Fuel Feed and Return Lines remove, check O-rings closely.
4. Had a water temp. gauge wire run directly over intake, cut in middle for splice later and move out of way.
5. Same with oil pressure copper to plastic splice, I read oil pressure at top of turbo feed line area, above intake disconnect and move out of the way.
6. Intake Loop bracket on front stud, bag label with nut.
7. Cam Sensor Lock Tab and connector, bag tab and label, unhook wiring, same for wastegate sol., TPS sensor.
8. Drivers side lower rocker studs remove nut and clear harness tabs over stud, move harness away.
9. Spark plug wires, remove and label.
10. Coil pack and module, removed for easier access, make dwg. for wires, bag bolt and (2) nuts.
11. Unplug Fuel Inj. harness from main harness, save locking tab.
12. O2 sensor, IACV, High Temp. fan switch, A/C fan control wiring disconnect from main harness.
13. Upper Rocker studs, EGR vac. lines and EVRV disconnect and remove, box and label, dwg. if nec.
14. Vac. block if necessary, (2) bolts bag and label.
15. Throttle cable, Detent Cable, Cruise Cable Bracket, clips save, (1) nut on stud, (2) small bolts, bag and label.
16. Remove Throttle Body, (if necessary) (2) nuts, check gasket. Needed to remove to get front bolt that holds the vacuum lines in the intake. Remove intake bolt and bag and label.
17. Fuel pressure Reg. also remove for wrench access and to check O-rings.
18. Charcoal cannister vac. line remove from metal lines.
19. Heater water valve vac. line remove.
20. (2) Tensioner bolts and tensioner remove and bag.
21. Header to crossover bolts (2) remove and label and bag.
22. Header studs with A/C and Alt. brackets remove and bag, orientation dwg. if necessary.
23. A/C compressor rear mounting bolt through access. bracket, bag and label.
24. Other A/C mounting bolts bag and label, move A/C compressor and lines out of the way.
25. Accessory mounting bracket (3) bolts mark positions on dwg. label and bag.
26. Studs and nuts from header, oil dipstick mount, remove mark locations and dwg. in detail and bag.
27. HVAC hoses and T's near firewall,
28. Vacuum brake line if equipped.
29. Meal and Rubber water lines from intake and (1) bolt for bracket into intake label and bag.
30. Rear of intake harness mounting bolt, rear of drivers head cable bracket bolt, bag and label.
31. Pull the valve cover off and remove the rockers, (3) bolts label and bag.
32. Remove Intake bolts and stud and mark and label each location, clean as necessary.
33. Remove intake and clean as necessary.
34. Remove head bolts and note locations for each length etc. Not reusable if stock...
35. Pull the head off clean off old gasket areas thoroughly etc.
Chemicals Used: Brake Clean (4) cans, Engine Degreaser (1) can, Fuel Injection Cleaner Liqui. Moly (1) can, Permatex Sensor Safe RTV gasket maker (1) tube, Rags lots of them...
Parts Used for (1) Gasket Repair: Head Gasket GM or Fel-pro Stock Style (1)
Intake Gasket w/seals Fel-pro see comments above)
Valve Cover Gasket (1)
Throttle Body Gasket (If Necessary)
Vac. Block Gasket (If Necessary)
7/16-14 Tap (Available in most parts stores but not all)
O-Rings Fuel Feed and Return (If Necessary)
ARP bolt lube and thread sealer (1) tube each, or your desired equivalent.
Process for what I had to do mostly in order...
A. Drain Radiator, remove Upper Rad. hose, all water pump hoses into intake.
1. Remove Belt and (+) Battery Cable(s) too many (-) negative connections to do that one dual posts etc.
2. Alternator Remove, Bag rear bolt, top bolt and nut, and stud, make dwg. for proper re-intstall of intercooler bracket, rad. hose bracket, etc. Keep rear (+) taped up and out of the way, put nut on stud of alt.
3. Fuel Feed and Return Lines remove, check O-rings closely.
4. Had a water temp. gauge wire run directly over intake, cut in middle for splice later and move out of way.
5. Same with oil pressure copper to plastic splice, I read oil pressure at top of turbo feed line area, above intake disconnect and move out of the way.
6. Intake Loop bracket on front stud, bag label with nut.
7. Cam Sensor Lock Tab and connector, bag tab and label, unhook wiring, same for wastegate sol., TPS sensor.
8. Drivers side lower rocker studs remove nut and clear harness tabs over stud, move harness away.
9. Spark plug wires, remove and label.
10. Coil pack and module, removed for easier access, make dwg. for wires, bag bolt and (2) nuts.
11. Unplug Fuel Inj. harness from main harness, save locking tab.
12. O2 sensor, IACV, High Temp. fan switch, A/C fan control wiring disconnect from main harness.
13. Upper Rocker studs, EGR vac. lines and EVRV disconnect and remove, box and label, dwg. if nec.
14. Vac. block if necessary, (2) bolts bag and label.
15. Throttle cable, Detent Cable, Cruise Cable Bracket, clips save, (1) nut on stud, (2) small bolts, bag and label.
16. Remove Throttle Body, (if necessary) (2) nuts, check gasket. Needed to remove to get front bolt that holds the vacuum lines in the intake. Remove intake bolt and bag and label.
17. Fuel pressure Reg. also remove for wrench access and to check O-rings.
18. Charcoal cannister vac. line remove from metal lines.
19. Heater water valve vac. line remove.
20. (2) Tensioner bolts and tensioner remove and bag.
21. Header to crossover bolts (2) remove and label and bag.
22. Header studs with A/C and Alt. brackets remove and bag, orientation dwg. if necessary.
23. A/C compressor rear mounting bolt through access. bracket, bag and label.
24. Other A/C mounting bolts bag and label, move A/C compressor and lines out of the way.
25. Accessory mounting bracket (3) bolts mark positions on dwg. label and bag.
26. Studs and nuts from header, oil dipstick mount, remove mark locations and dwg. in detail and bag.
27. HVAC hoses and T's near firewall,
28. Vacuum brake line if equipped.
29. Meal and Rubber water lines from intake and (1) bolt for bracket into intake label and bag.
30. Rear of intake harness mounting bolt, rear of drivers head cable bracket bolt, bag and label.
31. Pull the valve cover off and remove the rockers, (3) bolts label and bag.
32. Remove Intake bolts and stud and mark and label each location, clean as necessary.
33. Remove intake and clean as necessary.
34. Remove head bolts and note locations for each length etc. Not reusable if stock...
35. Pull the head off clean off old gasket areas thoroughly etc.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
We use oil resistant sealer.
Of course, a small tube lasts forever, as the LS engines don't leak!
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Forgot to mention pull the throttle body inlet pipe off and spin it out of the way, that's near step 1.
Remove air intake hoses as well from the turbo and MAF so you can get a wiring and water pump outlet hoses into intake and water pipes that bolt to the intake.
And since I used the same Permatex gasket goop Chuck uses my intake shouldn't leak either.
Remove air intake hoses as well from the turbo and MAF so you can get a wiring and water pump outlet hoses into intake and water pipes that bolt to the intake.
And since I used the same Permatex gasket goop Chuck uses my intake shouldn't leak either.
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