Priming engine only 38 psi oil pressure

3 pages ...
pull the large bypass plug on the oil adapter (1" wrench) and see what spring is in there ,
the NA carbed cars only used a 40# spring
check color of spring and count coils to determine what you have , if its an orange 40# pop in a yellow 60# spring (cheap melling oilpump rebuild kit has all the springs)
heres the spring chart.
if you have a 60# yellow and can only get 38# then you have problems , might need to check that the pump gasket is correctly installed

View attachment 295387

This is why members like Pacecarta are so important to this forum. He kept it simple and efficient while we all re engineered your situation :eek::D:ROFLMAO:(y)
 
This is why members like Pacecarta are so important to this forum. He kept it simple and efficient while we all re engineered your situation :eek::D:ROFLMAO:(y)

This forum is full of "Engineers" LOL luckily its balanced by very knowledgeable people. Tomorrow. Video and updates.
 
The first thing that should have been checked is the spring. That does not explain the gurgling sound though.
 
Ok so it's got the yellow spring, I primed it for longer and still goes up to about 40 then drops to 25.

The gurgling sound is coming from the pan and when I put my hand on the pan I can physically feel a mixture of oil and air being relieved through the pickup into the pan.

Going to drop the pan and see what's up with the pickup tube. Air is getting in somewhere.
 
I can not post the video from my phone or computer. Not sure why but I'm running out of daylight and fu** technology it never works.

Update after I get the pan off. If I can
 
From what I remember mine did the same after I stopped priming and my oil pressure is at 60-70 when I turned my engine on and running.
 
Update after I get the pan off. If I can

You can. Sometimes it can be VERY tight and frustrating. If so, turn the crank some so the rear counterweights swing upwards into the crankcase. That give enough clearance to slide right out.

With 38 on the drill, I would have already started it and seen if the intake side of the pump got rid of the bubble. It's going to suck if you do all this extra work for nothing. Even worse if you create an oil leak and have to do it again.
 
Update: getting the pan off was probably the easiest task on these cars for me. Pickup was tight and gasket looked good. I changed the gasket anyway and reinstalled. I did notice this pickup doesn't have the relief in it for when the screen gets clogged but that should matter. Highlt of the pickup in the pan was good too.

Cranked it again with the drill and still 40 lbs and then it drops to 25 then 10 and holds 10-20 with the drill at full speed. The sound is still there and it was caused by air relief into the pan through the pickup. I thought maybe the oil cooler was the problem so I took the adapter off and put the filter right to the pump casing. Same issues same air noise.

when I pulled the filter the oil is completely airaided. Tons of air bubbles and looks frothy. Air is getting into this system from somewhere but I do not know where.

Could it possibly be pulling air from somewhere behind the timing case? My next move is going to be removing the front case and replacing it with a new one and new oil pump. I don't know what to do at this point but I'm not staring the car till I figure it out.

See pic of the oil. If anyone wants to hear the noise text me I'll send you the videos. I cannot get them to upload. 516-356-6238 Tyler. Thanks!
 

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3 pages ...
pull the large bypass plug on the oil adapter (1" wrench) and see what spring is in there ,
the NA carbed cars only used a 40# spring
check color of spring and count coils to determine what you have , if its an orange 40# pop in a yellow 60# spring (cheap melling oilpump rebuild kit has all the springs)
heres the spring chart.
if you have a 60# yellow and can only get 38# then you have problems , might need to check that the pump gasket is correctly installed

View attachment 295387

I wanted to see if it would make it to page 5. You party spoiler!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The pickup looks new in the photo. I assume where the tube meets the flange that bolts to the block it is not cracked? The only other place it could suck air is between the front cover and the block. It's possible they used the wrong gasket for the front cover. Some sets I have bought had 2 gaskets in them and one will not work. I think you are right in thinking it's sucking air because of the sound and the aeration in the oil.
 
The pickup looks new in the photo. I assume where the tube meets the flange that bolts to the block it is not cracked? The only other place it could suck air is between the front cover and the block. It's possible they used the wrong gasket for the front cover. Some sets I have bought had 2 gaskets in them and one will not work. I think you are right in thinking it's sucking air because of the sound and the aeration in the oil.

No everything looks brand new no cracks or anything. Front Case comes off tomorrow.
 
Update: getting the pan off was probably the easiest task on these cars for me. Pickup was tight and gasket looked good. I changed the gasket anyway and reinstalled. I did notice this pickup doesn't have the relief in it for when the screen gets clogged but that should matter. Highlt of the pickup in the pan was good too.

Cranked it again with the drill and still 40 lbs and then it drops to 25 then 10 and holds 10-20 with the drill at full speed. The sound is still there and it was caused by air relief into the pan through the pickup. I thought maybe the oil cooler was the problem so I took the adapter off and put the filter right to the pump casing. Same issues same air noise.

when I pulled the filter the oil is completely airaided. Tons of air bubbles and looks frothy. Air is getting into this system from somewhere but I do not know where.

Could it possibly be pulling air from somewhere behind the timing case? My next move is going to be removing the front case and replacing it with a new one and new oil pump. I don't know what to do at this point but I'm not staring the car till I figure it out.

See pic of the oil. If anyone wants to hear the noise text me I'll send you the videos. I cannot get them to upload. 516-356-6238 Tyler. Thanks!
You have to upload the videos to YouTube then post them here.
 
there is also a couple of different oil filter housings..

one other thing to check is to make sure the oil pressure relief plug is seated all the way in with the spring


for the air getting into the system. Many yrs ago I ran into this very same problem... turns out there was a crack in the block thru the oil suction passage way.. The crack was in the motor mount bolt hole...apparently someone used a too long of bolt and bottomed it out and cracked the block.


Hope this is not your problem..
 
there is also a couple of different oil filter housings..

one other thing to check is to make sure the oil pressure relief plug is seated all the way in with the spring


for the air getting into the system. Many yrs ago I ran into this very same problem... turns out there was a crack in the block thru the oil suction passage way.. The crack was in the motor mount bolt hole...apparently someone used a too long of bolt and bottomed it out and cracked the block.


Hope this is not your problem..
Omg!
 
there is also a couple of different oil filter housings..

one other thing to check is to make sure the oil pressure relief plug is seated all the way in with the spring


for the air getting into the system. Many yrs ago I ran into this very same problem... turns out there was a crack in the block thru the oil suction passage way.. The crack was in the motor mount bolt hole...apparently someone used a too long of bolt and bottomed it out and cracked the block.


Hope this is not your problem..

Yea I hope not. I can take the passenger side rear bolt out and check but I used stock ones very short.

Oil filter adapter came off a previous motor so I know that's ok. It's getting air that's the problem
 
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