Preparing for LT1 MAF / Translator

Tim_D

Active Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2017
As the title suggests, what should I be doing to my car to get it ready for the new translator and MAF?

1) Wiring Requirements - what does the translator need (IGN power, GND, etc)?
2) Is there anything that needs to be prepped / adjusted on the car or the new MAF sensor / translator?

Thanks in advance -
 
The translator plugs into the maf plug in the harness and the MAF plugs into the translator.
As long as you get a Buick translator from a supporting vendor its plug and play.

When you get it you'll have to set the dip switches for the type of chip you have and some dials for the maf you use.

I went with the 85mm Z06 maf for a cleaner look with my intake setup.
I needed to get an adapter to use the internal air temp sensor.

Check this out for a preview of the instructions.

http://turbotweak.com/translatorinstructions.pdf

Get a cool mounting bracket as well.

https://turbobuick.com/threads/maf-translator-custom-mounting-bracket-now-with-hardware.448307/
 
Depends on what size MAF you are going to use and what air cleaner setup you have. As far as the translator itself it's a plug and play. It goes in series with the MAF and MAF wiring harness.
 
All good new so far, regarding the level of prep.

For more info, I'll be using the 3" LT1-style Delphi MAF, and it is going into a stock ECU with a stock chip. At some point I will probably upgrade the chip, but not immediately.
 
I think mikestertwo was saying you may need different couplers to fit your current maf pipe, depending on what you have.
 
I'm pretty sure the couplers should be OK, since the MAF I'm replacing is also a 3" (stock).
If you have the stock air cleaner setup and you are going to use the aluminum housing 3" LT1 MAF you will have a slight fitment issue. The 3" LT1 MAF is slightly larger in diameter and shorter than the stock MAF. I reduced the outer diameter on a lathe and made an extension to fit the stock flexible intake hose.
 
Does anybody know what category a stock chip falls under with regards to the MODE switches? The instructions below state "all others", but have the TurboTweak qualifier.

1535387135365.png
 
Good question I believe a stock chip would be considered all others, however a new TT 5.7 chip, even for a completely stock setup would be a considerable improvement as far as drivability and cold start up.

The stock chip has too much timing for today's inferior fuel.
Over the years we've learned there is more power to be had by running lower timing and higher boost.

The TT chip has better control over cold start up fueling, no more high idle- low idle- high idle- low idle until the car is warmed up.
The TT chip unlocks the converter sooner so no more low speed 3rd gear converter locked up chugging shudder plus is tunable with the scanmaster, because no two cars are the same.
 
You can't use a solid pipe with a stock airbox. When the engine torques over under load, it'll break the weakest link.

The LT1 MAF is slightly larger than 3" but you can stretch a coupler over it. If you haven't bought an air filter yet, I'd recommend getting the larger 3.5" MAFs. The have less preturbo pressure drop and will let the turbo spool faster. A 4" filter with the neck squished down will act like a velocity stack and remove a little more flow restriction too.

Also, park the car until you get a real chip. It's 2018 and today's fuels have obsoleted that thing.
 
The car does not use a stock airbox. The engine resides in a 1964 Buick Special. The car buildup is outlined in the “Hybrids” section at the link below.

https://turbobuick.com/threads/building-a-1964-buick-special.458244/

As far as parking the car until I get a new chip for it, yeah, I can put it high on the priority list for an off-season project. But I’ve been working on this car pretty hard for about 3 straight months trying to get it running. And I’m getting pretty antsy to try it out.

Are we talking damage here? Even if the car is run on 93 octane and not beaten on?
 
I think you will be fine running the stock chip as long as you keep the boost down to stock levels (12-13 psi) and just drive the car.

I haven't run the stock chip since June of '87 and to be honest I'm surprised any car still has the stock chip in it.

I think we tend to think all out performance is the goal and the newer chips definitely fit the bill.
 
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