Powermaster to Hydroboost conversion

Tori

Active Member

Maybe i missed it, but anyone know the application for the alum. master cylinder listed above ? The post on your site shows part #10-1740, but that # doesn't work for Autozone or O'Reilly. Your post mentions Cadillac, but no year/model given. Kind of in a bind as it looks like the cast iron version (10-1984) isn't going to happen today as planned.
 

TURBOELKY

Well-Known Member
Maybe i missed it, but anyone know the application for the alum. master cylinder listed above ? The post on your site shows part #10-1740, but that # doesn't work for Autozone or O'Reilly. Your post mentions Cadillac, but no year/model given. Kind of in a bind as it looks like the cast iron version (10-1984) isn't going to happen today as planned.
Not sure on aluminum but the iron reservoir usually takes a few days to get. I'm curious about the aluminum one too.
 

Tori

Active Member
http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/s...292_1020452_668&reset=true&pt=01292&ppt=C0066

This one appears to be the one in the O'Reilly line.
Which ever one you get be sure the snapring holding the plunger in the end doesn't have then in it or it will probably get caught on the hydro boost actuator. Then the brake pedal wont come back up.

I don't think that's correct either, my footnotes show its for a vacuum boost set up.
nmc21871-2.jpg
 
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TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
Yeah, and it looks like it has a snap ring with the eyes. Thus is what happens. It should be and started out flat. Then it got caught on the hydroboost unit.



There is a Seville and Regal unit ill have to do some more research . The 10-1740 is a cardone part number.
 

Tori

Active Member
My master cylinder arrived today from eBay, A1 Cardone 10-1984. Lets just say it looked vintage ! Reman of course, and with a friggin' Heli-coil in the front line port. (so far no leaks)
Installed it tonite after a quick bench bleed.

Anyway, hooked up the lines and gave the pedal a try without even bleeding the lines. Pedal felt great. You could here the pump change note with the pedal depressed, but it felt better than with the vacuum booster. I tried it in gear (brave i know.... or maybe stupid) and it held the car. I won't have a helper to bleed the line properly until tomorrow, but i even took it around the block. Brakes felt way better than the vacuum set up and thats WITH air in the lines. So far i'm pretty happy with the conversion.

My only gripe is how close it sits to the power steering reservoir. If all turn out well, i'll probably grind this boss off the front. Do these all fit this close on the IC cars ?

IMG_4527.JPG
 

2toneNV

Member
Need help. Been trying to get my car back on the road from PM brake failure in 2013. Did the HB conversion and can't get the conversion to work. Bled things off fluid through all lines and the pedal still wants to go to the floor when car is cranking. At my whit's end with this conversion and about to try a PM unit I have sitting in the garage.
PLEASE HELP!
 

2toneNV

Member
The HB is from jdpolzin and is an OE of off an 84 GN, MC is remanufactured, ps pump is the factory one. Everything else is parts store.
 

Cryptic

Active Member
The HB is from jdpolzin and is an OE of off an 84 GN, MC is remanufactured, ps pump is the factory one. Everything else is parts store.

I had a similar issue. For me it was getting the air out of the master cylinder that was the trick. There was no more air in the lines but the air trapped in the master caused a soft pedal.


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2toneNV

Member
I had a similar issue. For me it was getting the air out of the master cylinder that was the trick. There was no more air in the lines but the air trapped in the master caused a soft pedal.


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Did you bench bled yours before bolting it up? I did that, but wondering if there is a way to make sure the prop valve doesn't have air trapped. My prop valve is also new.
 

Cryptic

Active Member
Did you bench bled yours before bolting it up? I did that, but wondering if there is a way to make sure the prop valve doesn't have air trapped. My prop valve is also new.

I bench bled multiple times but I still had air in it. I finally got a syringe tool to help with the bench bleeding. I was shocked by how much air was still trapped in the damn thing.

Something like this did the trick for me:



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Cryptic

Active Member
Geez, that syringe really helped and fixed your issue with air in the system?

It made all the difference in the world for me. I bench bled with plugs and I bench bled with tubing with no luck. Maybe my technique was bad and your issue may be something else but I bled and bled with every method possible with no air in the lines but that turned out to be my issue and that piece was the solve.


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