PowerLogger Wg% & IDC

HackersDna

Test don't Guess
Joined
Aug 29, 2017
Hey guys.. Here for more knowledge. Never have got this thing figured out but I feel I'm getting closer. After having major issues with the MAF, I now have it to where it will idle ok but if you try to stab it.. It backfires-pops-crackles and never has any power. Went over and over paying attention to everything. Noticed when it wanted to throw a fit.. The factory boost light would peg really fast for a 1/4 of a sec. I mean you have to really watch just to see it... But max boost on my AM mechanical gauge was maybe 6lbs. I did some things with the solenoid and gate.. Basically If I make it a non boost car it will run and all the ignorance stops but of course has zero power. So I started going over logs which brings me to the title of this. Why is the Wg% either 0 or 75.3%. And only those 2 numbers. Its the same thru many logs. Is this the way the chip is set up? If it's duty cycled I don't understand that at all. And speaking of duty cycle why won't my Inj duty ever get to or higher than 25%. You cant fix things if you don't understand the reasoning behind them. Thanks guys for any insight.
 

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  • 11-24 First run.dat
    1.7 MB · Views: 66
There is definitely something up with your Ecm or chip . If your injector DC isn’t getting past 25 then the back firing are lean pops you are hearing not good at all you can melt a piston or plenty of other pulling the motor problems . I would call or email whoever u got the chip from and see if they can help you or just buy another one from Eric at turbotweak . Have you checked your main grounds on the back of the head ? Or your main fuseable links down attached to your starter ? Those love there life right next to your hot ass headers and I have seen melted ones grounding out causing all sorts of issues. Good luck .
 
WB is all over the place. Is it in good working order...and is it calibrated correctly.
 
Waste gate duty cycle is for controlling boost. It will sit on 0 until boost control is activated. Then it will go up to a pre determined % depending on what boost level in the chip is set up for. This has nothing to do with your issues.

You are dangerously lean when you try to boost. I would start with some basics. Make sure the chip is right for the injectors. Verify fuel pressure and pressure rise with boost. Something is a miss.
 
Well I can say it’s making this L1 MasterTech feel real dumb that’s for sure. These things are truly like Unicorns.
The chip is a TT6.1. Inj are flow matched 60#. I bought it as a package from Eric. Fuel psi is correct. Just cause it was old I installed a Racetronix 255 with their HW. Acufab reg. I have gave it base psi from 42 all the way to 50. Ignition is all new. CKP/CMP is in sync verified with scope.
It’s weird. Got so bad yesterday that it blew intake hose of TB.
Recalibrated the Innovate WB. It does change with forced lean and rich conditions.
 
Exactly what innovative wideband are you using and what output? Did you play with the analog output voltages at all? Something is wacky.

X2 on shutting off wb correction.

Hopefully Eric will see this and chime in.
 
I am re-doing the grounds as we type. So all power is disconnected. Then I will go thru the entire process of setting it up again "WB". You guys say the powers and grounds so I will not dismiss any suggestions. Can't believe they have that many grounds on 1 stud.. Insane. But with them off they all load test out on and past 4 amps. I'm just going to make a better bed for them.
 
You are not even close to using the wideband for correction, that only happens above 10-12psi boost. So that's not causing your lean issue.
The wastegate DC is normal.

It's going very lean, which is typically a MAF or fuel supply issue.

Is it possible your fuel pressure is much lower than what your gauge says?
Does it sound like its missing at idle? The MAF reading is a bit erratic at idle, and generally higher than normal for hot idle. Any air leaks, did someone install a bov?
 
After many MAF's Idle is now good. Starts fast, No misfires at idle. Coil ramps look good. CKP/CMP in sync. Fuel pressure and Volume is good. Did try 2 different gauges just be sure. BTW, I am not relying on a rail gauge. Finishing up all grounds. Then Ill get another cold start data pid for ya.
I get it guys, I tell my customers if I could fix cars over the phone I would be a millionaire. Just looking for pointers. So I'm finishing up the pointers that have been suggested thus far.
 
Ok Guys.. Repaired and installed redundant grounds. New fuel filter, Checked pressures & flow test again. Smoked the engine to make sure there were no vacuum leaks. All passed. But as you see in the files.. Its bad. But there are no misfires. Figured out that if the turbo even thinks about making boost it gets bad, hence the popping and so on. Only reading that mechanically is way off is engine vacuum at idle, Which due to the low numbers >7psi I believe it is time to tear this engine down. Has to be a cylinder head/valve issue. Just absolutely mind blowing that it idles without misfiring. In fairness I have not done a cylinder leakdown test.. I think that's just wasting time at this point. You guys agree?
 

Attachments

  • 11-25 Cold Start.dat
    1.5 MB · Views: 55
  • 11-25 Drive.dat
    416 KB · Views: 56
Only Kirbans have stockers calibrated correctly. I only trust an LT1, LS1 or Z06 with a Translator.
 
And I have no problem getting one if I knew it was going to make the difference, But I keep going to the Inj % and the low vacuum. And eventually I was aiming to go to a SD system so I kinda hate to spend that cash. Long term I know the engine needs built but with these Indian winter days we've been having I just wanted to drive it for a few hours with no issues. Rolling Stones said it best.. "You can't always get what you want"
 
Ok guys first I want to say a huge thank you to all who chimed in. This forum is amazing! I now know the problem with a 100% certainty. Although this car had been sitting for 13 years when I got it and went thru the tuneup checklist, it ran like a stock GN should all up to the point the ECM went out. Hence why I got the new chip - injectors - powerlogger -scanmaster - etc. Then I fell into the "Well since I'm changing this I might as well do that" so alot of things had changed and then when it came to hit the key, Problems! Since I'm new to the game, I'm new to the parameters and the what they should be. I don't see many OBD1 systems anymore. It's hard to find theory & operation on how things worked back in the day. And I'm not happy with well it is working so no need to learn. ANYWAYS... The problem ended up being the chip. I pulled the old Hypertech chip that was in the original failed ecm.. And she came back to life. Of course she is running rich as hell due to the 60# injectors still in it but I was able to drive it almost 120miles today. Power is back, It's not going lean. I'm very excited that it's something that had a solution. I'll get with Eric and see what we can do. I'm still not 100% certain that I didn't do something that I should have. Which brings me to a question.
Is the programming on the chip all based on TPS and MAF calculations in the 16 cells? Is that how it knows the Inj duty cycle %? I get SD systems cause it would be able to see the actual pressure in the engine "Boost" but how a MAF can control this is amazing. I know that's how GM did it but like I said it's hard to find Theory and Operation on these old cars. Should I have hooked up a MAP? I mean I know that helps log data but would it of changed my issue? As you can see in the new data.. Every thing I was concerned about has come to life. Open Loop now looks correct based off the IAT,CTS sensors. My wastegate solenoid & Inj duty cycles now operate as a duty cycle. I can't wait to get another chip so I can see how it should work. Thanks again guys!!!
 

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  • 11-26 Hyper.dat
    316.3 KB · Views: 54
Its probably not the chip. By putting in a chip made for stock injectors, but with 60lb injectors, you doubled the fueling, hiding whats causing the lean condition. If you put the stock injectors back in, then you can troubleshoot with a chip made for stock injectors. Can you confirm the injector part#? Just to make sure they are 60's.

I'll be happy to send you a replacement chip to try out anyway though. Send me an email with your shipping info. I suspect you'll be in the same boat though, but hopefully its something simple like that.
 
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