Gknational
Member
I have a 1987 GN with a Digital dash. I have a question on how to get a boost reading to the Power logger, since the car doesn’t have a map sensor. Does anyone know how to hook it up around this or have a map sensor for sale?
Power logger boost gauge on digital dash
- Thread starter Gknational
- Start date
'87 Turbo "T"
What a complete shitshow!!
As far as I know no can do without a MAP sensor. A 3 month bar will read higher boost then a 2 bar.
You can get a two bar fro Casper’s:
www.casperselectronics.com
Or a three bar from Julio:
www.alkycontrol.com
You can get a two bar fro Casper’s:
Map Sensor 2 Bar - 84/89
Map Sensor 2 Bar - 84/892-bar. Found at the inner fender well, passenger side on ANALOG DASH cars only. Black connector with 3 wires. Controls the BOOST reading on the bar-graph gage in the dash. Does NOT interface with the ECM.
www.casperselectronics.com
Or a three bar from Julio:
3 Bar Map — ALKYCONTROL
GM 3 bar map. Reads up to 29.4 psi boost. Must have 5volt supply or obtain our 12-5 converter.
www.alkycontrol.com
Grab the 3 bar from Julio like 87 Turbo "T" said as well as the harness in the link below. Plug and play with those parts. Run the MAP sensor wire through the firewall back to the powerlogger terminal and thats it. Did this on my digital dash 87 WE4 and works great.
www.alkycontrol.com
TPS Harness — ALKYCONTROL
Buick 86/87 TPS harness. Used to supply 5v to the 3bar MAP sensor on a stock computer 86/87 Buick application. Used on digital dash cars, gauge swapped cars, older dash cars.
www.alkycontrol.com
Gknational
Member
Ok thanks bro, my car has the plug for it already there just no sensor.
Correct, the plug is there but you still need to get the MAP signal to the powerlogger if you want to log vac/boost.
This can be done by locating and tapping into a wire under the dash and running that to the powerlogger terminal for the MAP signal.
I didn't want to cut into my under dash wiring so I used the harness from Julio as a simple plug and play solution. From my understanding the digital dash cars are different than the analog cars and these extra steps are required. Also, if you ever decide to run the Alky Control kit form Julio the MAP portion of the install is mostly completed by using this harness, which is a part of his kit.
Again, it's not the only way to achieve this, just an option.
This can be done by locating and tapping into a wire under the dash and running that to the powerlogger terminal for the MAP signal.
I didn't want to cut into my under dash wiring so I used the harness from Julio as a simple plug and play solution. From my understanding the digital dash cars are different than the analog cars and these extra steps are required. Also, if you ever decide to run the Alky Control kit form Julio the MAP portion of the install is mostly completed by using this harness, which is a part of his kit.
Again, it's not the only way to achieve this, just an option.
Gknational
Member
Ok what’s the harness called?
SCOOBY DOO
I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
Gknational
Member
Ok so I need this even though my car has the plug for it, cause it’s the digital dash
Sorry to repeat I’m just a little confused.
Thanks for everyones help.
Sorry to repeat I’m just a little confused.
Thanks for everyones help.
'87 Turbo "T"
What a complete shitshow!!
After some research it seems the digital dashes do not use a MAP sensor. They use a Hobbs switch since the digital dashes don't have a gauge, just lights. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
So you'll need a 3 bar map, the TPS harness from above & a run of green wire to take from the MAP sensor to the PL I/O board.
Note: If you don't currently have a real boost-boost/vacuum gauge, get one.
So you'll need a 3 bar map, the TPS harness from above & a run of green wire to take from the MAP sensor to the PL I/O board.
Note: If you don't currently have a real boost-boost/vacuum gauge, get one.
With a volt meter, key on engine off, check your current unused MAP connector for voltage. Im 99% sure on a digital dash car there will be no voltage to that unused connector. That means when you plug in the new 3 bar MAP its not going to function.
The TPS harness I suggested does two things:
-Supplies the voltage to the MAP by pulling it off the TPS sensor.
-Gives you a long signal wire to run to your powerlogger so you can see boost/vac in both powerlogger and a Scanmaster.
To achieve these two things without the harness you will need to find a way to get power to the 3 bar MAP and splice into either the under hood wiring or under the dash to get the MAP signal wire for powerlogger.
The harness makes this a 5 minute job and requires no splicing. I personally try to avoid splicing into wiring when possible. On both the cars in my sig I spent about a day on each one looking for previous electrical work that was poorly done and fixing it and found plenty of questionable stuff done by others.
If your very comfortable with doing the wiring then don't bother with the harness.
The TPS harness I suggested does two things:
-Supplies the voltage to the MAP by pulling it off the TPS sensor.
-Gives you a long signal wire to run to your powerlogger so you can see boost/vac in both powerlogger and a Scanmaster.
To achieve these two things without the harness you will need to find a way to get power to the 3 bar MAP and splice into either the under hood wiring or under the dash to get the MAP signal wire for powerlogger.
The harness makes this a 5 minute job and requires no splicing. I personally try to avoid splicing into wiring when possible. On both the cars in my sig I spent about a day on each one looking for previous electrical work that was poorly done and fixing it and found plenty of questionable stuff done by others.
If your very comfortable with doing the wiring then don't bother with the harness.
1986 Buick GX1
GX1 #001 [The One and Only]
When I installed a real boost gauge the first light came on at 2 psi and the second light came on at 8 psi. REAL informative! Yah, right.
