Please help, turbo return line leak

87GN 98GTP

Andrew
Joined
May 29, 2008
It keeps leaking around the gasket on the lower area. I've tried more torque, new paper gasket, rubber gasket and hi-temp gasket maker. Every time it leaks through the lower area of the gasket and out the side and lower bolt. I take the gasket off and u can see the oil seeping on the gasket same spot. I checked the aluminum return line and thought i saw a pin hole size but was wrong. Checked the flanges on turbo and return line and they look fine. But was also weird after trying hi temp gasket maker, didn't start the car and a couple days later saw oil seepage around the same area without the car ever running? I've almost given up


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Use the GM gaskets they are thicker.
Or I also use anaerobic sealent. It hardens in the absence of air. You have to reclock turbo to get a good flat seal.
 
I changed turbo early last year and it never leaked. Then all of a sudden it started a month ago. Also why would it leak with car off


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Been there, done everything you have done and still the drain leaks? I tried a different gasket, the oil still leaked around the bolts and flange. I finally contacted g-body parts and got their turbo drain set up with a coated rubber return line with a new turbo flange and barbed hose fittings for both ends. It is a job you want to do only once. The thermostat housing and heater hoses must come off, the turbo does not--which is a good thing. eBay does have some universal type turbo drain set ups. The hose is held on both ends with hose clamps. No more leaks. The original steel hose is prone to be brittle and crack around the turbo flange due to heat. It really was not designed to be moved around and turbo's installed on and off of it. G-body's set up has a thicker turbo flange and probably is stronger too. Best $50.00 I spent fixing a pain in the rear leak after installing my turbo. I would stop trying to fix the Oem turbo drain and replace it and be done with it. Just my two cents here. Dp
 
There was a good post on aftermarket drains, and Bison, I think, indicated some drains have poor geometry for draining and/or were in fact more restrictive than stock which is important due to the aerated nature of the oil coming out of the turbo - some things to keep in mind if you toss the factory style hose. Maybe not as important for ball bearing turbos with restrictors. Also read that replacing the bolts with stud and nuts makes drain line work much easier, something I plan on doing soon!
 
Thanks guys. Going to the g body style. Looks easy and not pricey


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Sometimes proper clocking helps also... You can loosen the exhaust and compressor sides and rotate the center housing slightly to take some of the strain off the drain- line [emoji41]
And I agree- studs are your friend in this area.

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it's possible the oil is leaking from between the seal plate and bearing housing. Run a wrench over the 4 retaining bolts


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