Dave Morgan's Chassis Tuners Handbook, is the Bible you seek!
It came out after we had figured out chassis tech by trial, error, and drawing a BUNCH of diagrams of a factory 4 link setup. We initially figured chassis tech out on the leaf spring cars that we all had first. It wasn't very difficult for a couple of us analytical sorts that raced out of my shop to figure out. HINT, one day while sitting next to a bobtail semi truck, and watching the rear leaf springs work while he went thru the gears, and watching the rear end lift every time the clutch came out, it came to me! I took a pic (with FILM!) and spent a lot of time trying to analyze why it happened, and why the engineers wanted it to. Later on, the MOPAR BIBLE (chassis) came out and explained what we knew. A leaf spring car is pushed, (and the body lifted, if setup correctly) by the front spring eye. Raise that point, and the rearend of the car lifts, driving the tires into the track, creating an instant inertial "weight" that aids traction. That point is easy to modify on the mopars, as the front spring hanger bolts on to the frame. By slotting the 4 mounting holes, you can install the bracket upside down, raising the front spring eye about an inch and a quarter. A noticeable improvement in traction! If some is good, then more is better! I welded up and redrilled the eye bolt hole higher, and it worked better, next step was to have a new main leaf made at a spring shop, we had them use heavier material for it so it would be stronger, the owner said, no, turn the next leafs around to the front to strengthen it, and remove the rear spring clamps to allow more lift. I had him make a stock material main leaf that relocated the axle about an inch and a half foward,(altered wheelbase!) and he rolled the front spring eye around the bolt, rather than a big rubber bushing, which allowed me to raise the bracket hole even higher without the spring eye hitting the floor.
WOW!!!! That car would "hook" in a car wash! Low 12s and high 11s on G-60 Street tires, with the front end about 2-3" in the air! I still have pics!
The rear and the front raised on the launch, then an old MOPAR guy came by and said "ya got good chassis separation Goin on there!" First time I heard that term. I have used it a lot since.
Then when I got my first coil spring car, a 69 GTO, we spent quite a bit of time trying to correlate what we knew about leaf spring cars to coil spring cars. I had some large quarter ruled graph paper and made a scale drawing of the factory 4 link suspension. It didn't take long to correlate what was going on once I realized that if I extended the imaginary length of the links, they were just an imaginary ladder bar suspension. Shorten the bar, lifts the back of the car, lengthen it raises the front, squatting the back, BAD!
Once we figured out how, the next step was to figure out where we wanted to lift the car from.
Then Dave Morgan's book came out, and we learned terms like: instant center, center of gravity, rise line, and percentage of rise.
Short answer: lower the front of the upper link mount 2" (make it adjustable with multiple holes in the plate), or buy a bolt in 9" because the rear upper link mounts are raised due to the larger housing diameter. It works out the same if you graph it. They used to make bolt on "no hop bars" that did the same thing, but were ugly, and everybody knew you had them. Enough for now. When I learn how to post pics, I will.
TIMINATOR