pic of car with 100% D.C

[gntyDenver]

Tank is Sumped 8 FEED 6 RETURN

the reason for 200 amp is once I put fuel lab pump on low voltage light would come on under boost now that doesnt happen

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Suggest you start by getting rid of those $hitty crimp connectors, splices, etc.
Also, if you had low voltage due to the pump seeing boost, there are other issues. The 200A alt is a bandaid, not a necessity. That pump draws <20A under hi psi.

R U sure that's the 41402 pump? The 41402 is shown as a red anodized color on the website..Yours is black...[Carb pump & smaller efi are shown as being black]

 

[gntyDenver]

Suggest you start by getting rid of those $hitty crimp connectors, splices, etc.
Also, if you had low voltage due to the pump seeing boost, there are other issues. The 200A alt is a bandaid, not a necessity. That pump draws <20A under hi psi.

R U sure that's the 41402 pump? The 41402 is shown as a red anodized color on the website..Yours is black...[Carb pump & smaller efi are shown as being black]

Yes Pump is 41402 Fuel lab says color dont matter red are the older ones and my invoice says 41402.....also fuel lab says my accurfab regulator is not keeping up with the pump...I did a small test at idle fuel pressure is 42lb if i switch pump into high then fuel pressure jumps to 62lb at idle.....there telling me thats whats wrong wheather pump is hi or low pressure should stay at 42lb...is this tru??

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Pressure with our regulators won't stay stable like that because it's inadequate for fuel pumps that high in volume. If you use an Aeromotive with a -8 return you can probably get away with that but not with our small orificed regulator.

2nd, why is it a surprise you're at 100% DC with a stroker engine with a killer Cal tune and a T70 with 120lbs injectors? If your engine puts down 547TQ at 17psi you're throwing down some ponies at 20+.

How many 90 degree bends are in your feedline? Looks like 2 just off the front passenger rail alone.

Are you dual feeding the rails? I hope so as I wouldn't single feed the Champion Rails with your power combo and E85.

 

[TurboBuRick]

The relay is a problem. The wiring is way too small and the connections should all be soldered and re insulated.

 

[gntyDenver]

Just talked to Cottons and he says its my regulator so im working on that now...I already re-wired nice and mounted pump on a bracket now im wait for accurafab regulator.

 

[marleyskater420]

Just talked to Cottons and he says its my regulator so im working on that now...I already re-wired nice and mounted pump on a bracket now im wait for accurafab regulator.

You only have -8 feeding the pump?! Wtf dude?? You spend all this money on an engine that makes 600+whp and you skimp on the fuel lines...wtf dude, seriously..

Stock being a cheapass and return the pump and buy one with a fuking -10 feed to it. If you have a -10 lines and then you have a -8 adapter right in front of it, it doesn't do much good, does it? Unless I'm missing something here.... but it looks like you have a -10 to the pre-pump filter, then a -10 M-to-F on the filter and a -8 M-to-M on the pump connecting to the filter. Why put that restriction right there before the pump, even if it is for a little bit?

If you unscrew the regulator nut all the way so that the regulator has no influence on the fuel pressure, and turn the pump onto high flow and the pressure rises, your regulator is too small. If it stays the same, then its fine. Look at the fuel lab 565 line of regs, or the Aeromotive #027-13113. Both have -10 returns and will flow enough for 2000+hp.

Also, did you pull the filters in the injectors? What size are your pre and post-pump filters?

How many 90deg fittings do you have? Are they hard elbows or smooth AN- bends?

The wiring is also crap, like someone already said.

Ony my own rig I plan on running dual of these FL pumps, or even the 42401's and that aeromotive regulator. The only 90deg's I'll have in my lines will be if they are an absolute *must* and will be AN-style smooth bends. My lines may cost almost as much as a single pump, but I'll be damned if they have any restrictions in them!

 

[asloan5]

The relay is a problem. The wiring is way too small and the connections should all be soldered and re insulated.

x2 I went with a 50 amp relay and all my wires are slightly oversized, all ends are crimped,soldered and have heat shrink at all joints. Don't skimp on wiring or the end result will be crap.
I use same pump with fuelab reg on a fuel cell and have no more fuel pressure issues.The fuel pump on and off is isolated from the cars key switch to complete stand alone. I wanted to take out any chance of 24 year old wiring and switches causing issues. The positive wire to the relay comes off the switched side of the trunk mounted electrical cut off switch. The ground goes right to the frame next to the pump. I used a grinder to polish a spot of metal on frame and use those star washers that help to scratch into the metal to insure good contact on all connections as well as put grease on them to prevent corrosion. ...may sound overkill but lean conditions will burn up an engine pretty quick. I also have a toggle for hi-low setting as well as the fast xfi triggers hi when conditions are met ie x amount of boost and throttle position. dual 8's from cell to a Y fitting to the pre-filter bolted direct to pump #8 out to post filter to #8 to front of car to a Y dual feeling champion rails. and a 6 return... I had issues on a hard launch with dropping fuel pressures. my pump was mounted next to cell front to back. I logged fuel pressure and saw a large drop. Someone gave me the heads up of a similar problem they had running in their tsm car. Issue was solved by placing pump sideways behind fuel cell. the only 90 degree bend before the fuel rail is at the fuel rail. I did not want any 90's at all as the cause flow issues. All lines are aeroquip teflon ss. I also went with the 240 amp I believe alternator as I was having voltage drop during run.... that issue is gone now. I hope some if this info helps.

 

[Pronto]

I would have used a rubber grommet for the wires through the metal too...

 

[TurboBuRick]

x2 I went with a 50 amp relay and all my wires are slightly oversized, all ends are crimped,soldered and have heat shrink at all joints. Don't skimp on wiring or the end result will be crap.
I use same pump with fuelab reg on a fuel cell and have no more fuel pressure issues.The fuel pump on and off is isolated from the cars key switch to complete stand alone. I wanted to take out any chance of 24 year old wiring and switches causing issues. The positive wire to the relay comes off the switched side of the trunk mounted electrical cut off switch. The ground goes right to the frame next to the pump. I used a grinder to polish a spot of metal on frame and use those star washers that help to scratch into the metal to insure good contact on all connections as well as put grease on them to prevent corrosion. ...may sound overkill but lean conditions will burn up an engine pretty quick. I also have a toggle for hi-low setting as well as the fast xfi triggers hi when conditions are met ie x amount of boost and throttle position. dual 8's from cell to a Y fitting to the pre-filter bolted direct to pump #8 out to post filter to #8 to front of car to a Y dual feeling champion rails. and a 6 return... I had issues on a hard launch with dropping fuel pressures. my pump was mounted next to cell front to back. I logged fuel pressure and saw a large drop. Someone gave me the heads up of a similar problem they had running in their tsm car. Issue was solved by placing pump sideways behind fuel cell. the only 90 degree bend before the fuel rail is at the fuel rail. I did not want any 90's at all as the cause flow issues. All lines are aeroquip teflon ss. I also went with the 240 amp I believe alternator as I was having voltage drop during run.... that issue is gone now. I hope some if this info helps.

That the way to it!

Show us some pics!