Texas, Where are you from
Interested in the bar that bolts to the frame horns and goes under the core support there. Is this part of the $800 frame/tub or available separately? Shipping to 76017. Let me know. Thanx.
im starting to repair my dads 87, would love to have those interior panels your giving away, but would feel bad getting them from free, would gladly send you a little coin for them and shipping!
Do you still have the bumper fillers, if so tell me how much extra for shipping to 38131, memphis tn area, thxBODY 2
FRONT BUMPER FILLER PANELS, Kirban(?) fiberglass ... $80
GM HEADLIGHT BEZELS, rare/discontinued, but “used” so... $???
(4) WAGNER SEALED BEAM HEADLIGHTS ... $20
2 x H4651 high beams and 2 x H4656 low beams, never even fired
KIRBAN H4 HEADLIGHT HARNESS ... $45
FAKE REPAINTED “NOS” GM “SATIN BLACK” CHROME CORNER LIGHTS ... $30 per pair
One of the certain vendor’s orders - believe it or not, this is exactly how I received them: overspray, masking lines, poor coverage, etc. I was so naïve at the time, thinking “I must’ve just got a bad set” that I ordered another pair! What a fool. I was planning to refinish them with SEM trim black, but now you can DIY, for super cheap.
Sorry didn’t see those where taken . How about the transmission pan?PM sent in those t top seals
still have bumper and front end support or hood?Ladies and gents, welcome to the longest ad you’ll ever see (maybe).
As the title states, I am parting out a 1987 Y56 car located in Connecticut at 06029. Lots more reading to do here than the average thread, but it’s all for the sake of transparency as well as answering questions before they pop up to save us both time.
I do take paypal, but I would prefer to keep the paypal aspect contained in PM’s so I don’t have two people randomly sending me money for the same part before we establish who’s getting what. Make sense? By all means, post your questions, comments, “dibs” and whatever else on this thread. I’ll PM you for the final details.
I have owned this TR since September 2005. There were zero mechanical/drivability issues with it other than a leaky slipping transmission and a stock converter that probably couldn’t keep up. In the spring of 2006, a deer took out the header panel, bezels, and driver’s fender.
The car was pulled off the road for repairs and a trans swap... and then I found the rust. I hadn’t really wanted a T-top car to begin with and now my impulsiveness came back to haunt me. The rust was all through the tub, top to bottom, firewall to trunk, from surface scale to fist-sized holes in the floor. After less than 1000 miles of driving, the car I’d bought to be a fun cruiser turned into a nightmare project. If I had the means and money, I would’ve done a body swap, but I was making $22k/year in the Army at the time and working by myself in a one-car garage (up hill, both ways).
During the repair and rebuild phase, I had some issues with a certain vendor’s “customer service” and several orders of sketchy parts (some you’ll see below). I initially overlooked it and rationalized it as bad luck or something else because “everybody” recommended this vendor. Well, he pulled a fast one on me soon enough and I had to eat a $2500 loss, which might as well have been $25,000 in those days. The Buick project was pretty much dead in the water at that point. I was out of patience, I was out of motivation, and I was out of money.
After the military, my line of work kept me separated from the car for extended periods of time, and other more fun, more rewarding, less stressful projects came along. Bottom line, the car has been sitting in a climate-controlled garage in CT since June of 2007. I collected some parts over the years here and there, and a couple months ago I started tinkering again. But I still don’t want a T-top car, and I’ve owned faster “better” cars since 2007. My standards for a “fun cruiser” have changed, and this thing is going to take at least $15k to get where I want it now. It’s time to go.
Let me be clear: I am more concerned with clearing out parts than haggling for top dollar. I have priced this stuff the way I have for that reason. I did my research. That being said, if you think I’m way off base for some reason, make me an offer.
So, now we know where we stand. Here’s the good news: I have a lot of parts that were bought and never actually made it onto the car. I also have a lot of parts that were put on the car after it was already parked in 2007, which means they are “used” but have exactly ZERO miles on them. This is all noted below on each part.
By and large, these listings are “what you see is what you get.” Each item is as complete or incomplete as the pictures show, and there are no additional parts included unless specifically stated.
I am a one-man operation here and I am still in the process of removing things, so please be patient. I have a digital scale and will gladly weigh parts upon request. I will do my best to get back to everybody ASAP and ship things ASAP.
TO MAKE THIS AS SIMPLE AND CLEAR AS POSSIBLE, THE PARTS ARE BROKEN DOWN BY “DEPARTMENT” AND THE CONDITION OF EACH IS CLEARLY LABELED ON THE PICTURES.
If the picture says NEW, that means the part is brand new, unused, unblemished, and has never been on or in the car. Sometimes I still have the original packaging, sometimes I don’t. If in doubt, assume I do not.
If the picture says ZERO, that means the part is new, but has been installed on or in the car since it was parked. These parts may have “installation” wear & tear, scratches, blemishes, etc. but zero actual miles of use.
If the picture says USED, this is an OEM part with approx. 80k miles on it unless otherwise noted.
Ready? Here we go...