Parting an '87 Regal Turbo Y56 + extras in CT

toddzilla

New Member
Ladies and gents, welcome to the longest ad you’ll ever see (maybe).

As the title states, I am parting out a 1987 Y56 car located in Connecticut at 06029. Lots more reading to do here than the average thread, but it’s all for the sake of transparency as well as answering questions before they pop up to save us both time.

I do take paypal, but I would prefer to keep the paypal aspect contained in PM’s so I don’t have two people randomly sending me money for the same part before we establish who’s getting what. Make sense? By all means, post your questions, comments, “dibs” and whatever else on this thread. I’ll PM you for the final details.

I have owned this TR since September 2005. There were zero mechanical/drivability issues with it other than a leaky slipping transmission and a stock converter that probably couldn’t keep up. In the spring of 2006, a deer took out the header panel, bezels, and driver’s fender.

The car was pulled off the road for repairs and a trans swap... and then I found the rust. I hadn’t really wanted a T-top car to begin with and now my impulsiveness came back to haunt me. The rust was all through the tub, top to bottom, firewall to trunk, from surface scale to fist-sized holes in the floor. After less than 1000 miles of driving, the car I’d bought to be a fun cruiser turned into a nightmare project. If I had the means and money, I would’ve done a body swap, but I was making $22k/year in the Army at the time and working by myself in a one-car garage (up hill, both ways).

During the repair and rebuild phase, I had some issues with a certain vendor’s “customer service” and several orders of sketchy parts (some you’ll see below). I initially overlooked it and rationalized it as bad luck or something else because “everybody” recommended this vendor. Well, he pulled a fast one on me soon enough and I had to eat a $2500 loss, which might as well have been $25,000 in those days. The Buick project was pretty much dead in the water at that point. I was out of patience, I was out of motivation, and I was out of money.

After the military, my line of work kept me separated from the car for extended periods of time, and other more fun, more rewarding, less stressful projects came along. Bottom line, the car has been sitting in a climate-controlled garage in CT since June of 2007. I collected some parts over the years here and there, and a couple months ago I started tinkering again. But I still don’t want a T-top car, and I’ve owned faster “better” cars since 2007. My standards for a “fun cruiser” have changed, and this thing is going to take at least $15k to get where I want it now. It’s time to go.

Let me be clear: I am more concerned with clearing out parts than haggling for top dollar. I have priced this stuff the way I have for that reason. I did my research. That being said, if you think I’m way off base for some reason, make me an offer.

So, now we know where we stand. Here’s the good news: I have a lot of parts that were bought and never actually made it onto the car. I also have a lot of parts that were put on the car after it was already parked in 2007, which means they are “used” but have exactly ZERO miles on them. This is all noted below on each part.

By and large, these listings are “what you see is what you get.” Each item is as complete or incomplete as the pictures show, and there are no additional parts included unless specifically stated.

I am a one-man operation here and I am still in the process of removing things, so please be patient. I have a digital scale and will gladly weigh parts upon request. I will do my best to get back to everybody ASAP and ship things ASAP.

TO MAKE THIS AS SIMPLE AND CLEAR AS POSSIBLE, THE PARTS ARE BROKEN DOWN BY “DEPARTMENT” AND THE CONDITION OF EACH IS CLEARLY LABELED ON THE PICTURES.

If the picture says NEW, that means the part is brand new, unused, unblemished, and has never been on or in the car. Sometimes I still have the original packaging, sometimes I don’t. If in doubt, assume I do not.

If the picture says ZERO, that means the part is new, but has been installed on or in the car since it was parked. These parts may have “installation” wear & tear, scratches, blemishes, etc. but zero actual miles of use.

If the picture says USED, this is an OEM part with approx. 80k miles on it unless otherwise noted.

Ready? Here we go...
 

toddzilla

New Member
BODY 1


COMPLETE FRONT BUMPER, includes everything pictured. ... $200

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The bumper itself is in good “driver” shape: no dings, dents, chrome isn’t bubbling, etc.

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The impact strip has seen better days and the bezels do have some minor bubbling. Directly below this listing is one for a brand new impact strip, if you’re interested

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Minor surface rust on the inside bottom edge, no scale, no bubbles.

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FRONT BUMPER IMPACT STRIP, still in the shipping tube ... $115

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FRONT MARKER LIGHTS, no cracks, good color and clarity, one semi-broken tab ... $50

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GM AIR DAMS ... $180

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toddzilla

New Member
BODY 2


FRONT BUMPER FILLER PANELS, Kirban(?) fiberglass ... $80

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GM HEADLIGHT BEZELS, rare/discontinued, but “used” so... $???

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(4) WAGNER SEALED BEAM HEADLIGHTS ... $20

2 x H4651 high beams and 2 x H4656 low beams, never even fired

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KIRBAN H4 HEADLIGHT HARNESS ... $45

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FAKE REPAINTED “NOS” GM “SATIN BLACK” CHROME CORNER LIGHTS ... $30 per pair

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One of the certain vendor’s orders - believe it or not, this is exactly how I received them: overspray, masking lines, poor coverage, etc. I was so naïve at the time, thinking “I must’ve just got a bad set” that I ordered another pair! What a fool. I was planning to refinish them with SEM trim black, but now you can DIY, for super cheap.
 
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toddzilla

New Member
BODY 3

FIBERGLASS (FRP) HEADER PANEL #1, includes headlight buckets, adjustment screws, etc. as shown ... $75

It fits about how you’d expect. Good for a race car, not much else.

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FIBERGLASS HEADER PANEL #2 ... $35

You can imagine how bad this thing is if I bought the FRP stinker to replace it. “Number 2” is right. Another “certain vendor” part. Unlike his conveniently sparse description, here’s the reality. There are no mounts of any type, anywhere, so I hope you’re crafty. It’s light, I’ll give it that much. Comes with grille brackets and poor instructions on how to mount the grille.

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GM GRILLE + NEW EMBLEM + NEW SPRINGS ... $150

This was cracked by the deer impact. I’m holding the crack “open” in the picture - it’s a clean break and definitely repairable, no missing pieces. My total amateur fix with 2-part epoxy putty didn’t work because 2006 me didn’t know what the hell I was doing. This is a very simple fix now with J-B Weld Plastic Bond and some mesh drywall tape.

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HOOD... $100

The hood was like this when I bought the car. It looks too “rough” and localized to be hail damage, but who knows.

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All of the “seam sealer” joints are cracked like that picture. I don’t know if that’s a routine thing or not. The only appreciable rust on the hood is on that area of the center brace (pictured), and it’s minor.





HOOD EMBLEMS... $15 EACH

I’m honestly not sure if these are NOS or replica, but I bought them in 2006. I prefer the “contrast” look of the hood emblems, so the third was going on the trunk lid. One has that tiny bit of adhesive backing missing.

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PASSENGER UPPER DOOR HINGE from OPGI ... $35

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toddzilla

New Member
BODY 4


KIRBAN DOOR WEATHERSTRIPPING ... $75

Very soft, no rips or tears, only the driver’s door was “installed” (no adhesive), and the car never left the garage.

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LOCKING T-TOP PANELS (WITH KEY) ... $200 each OR $350 for the pair

Includes free worst limo tint job ever! I will clean this garbage off if you want me too.

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GM T-TOP PANEL WEATHERSTRIPPING ... $75

The adhesive on the packaging has failed, so they’re partially “open” but they’ve been sitting in a cardboard box for 12 years. Manufactured in 2006.

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GM(?) T-TOP ROOF WEATHERSTRIPPING ... $50

This was never installed, but it was sitting out on the roof of the car for 2-3 years in the garage. Not sure if that matters to anybody or not.

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Notice the “split” there, where the two “types” of rubber meet. I don’t know if that’s a defect, or a normal natural thing, or if it would matter at all either way due to where that part goes on the car. This happened on its own while I was moving it to take pictures. I don’t want to sell leaky junk, so if it’s junk, let me know.

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REAR DECK FILL PANEL ... $50

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REAR FENDER CAPS ... $75 for the pair

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toddzilla

New Member
BODY 5


TRUNK LID ... $200


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The only rust was under the trim piece. Though there is some minor bubbling, the picture of the underside lip looks worse than it is in real life.





“STAY DOWN” LICENSE PLATE BRACKET ... $25

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LICENSE PLATE MOUNTING PANEL ... $25

Includes the light socket and pigtail... part of the rubber “block off” plate is gone but it still mounts and works fine.

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REAR BUMPER ... $200

Same/similar condition as the front bumper. Surface rust where the two halves meet. I do have and will include the “spacer” plates if desired.

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toddzilla

New Member
BODY 6

TAIL LIGHTS WITH LED BULBS ... $200 for the pair

Driver quality overall, but good color and no cracks. Includes trim, pigtails, new (2018) LED bulbs installed in every socket, and the plastic retaining nuts from in the trunk (not pictured).

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OEM TURBO WHEELS W/ CENTER CAPS ... $250

I bought these to put on the car (came with Cragar Street Stars), but never put them on.

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The wheels are in good shape overall, minor rash on two wheels.

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One also has this weird cracking issue where the center cap mounts. It doesn’t seem to affect the center cap’s “fit” at all, so I’m not sure what’s up or how this happened. I bought it this way.

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toddzilla

New Member
BODY 7


COMPLETE PASS. DOOR – INNER, OUTER, WINDOW, SIDE MIRROR, AND MOTOR ... $200

Minimal rust, nothing structural, window motor works. I haven’t removed this yet because I have nowhere to safely store it.

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COMPLETE DRIVER’S DOOR – INNER, OUTER, WINDOW, SIDE MIRROR, AND MOTOR ... $200

Minimal rust, nothing structural, window motor works. I haven’t removed this yet because I have nowhere to safely store it.

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toddzilla

New Member
INTERIOR 1

The entire interior (minus the dash) was pulled during the rust rehab. In the intervening years, generations of mice chewed up, nested, urinated, defecated, lived, died, gave birth, etc. on and in the insulation of the interior panels that had been removed from the car and stored in a different building. Luckily the seats were kept elsewhere and did not suffer the same fate.

In May 2018, I began to systematically strip, clean, and refurbish all the interior panels (minus the dash) in order to repaint with the correct 1597 color tan paint using the full suite of SEM cleaning, degreasing, prep, and adhesion promotion products. I also cut and shaped some “Cool It” Thermoguard foam insulation to replace and improve on the OEM jute crap that barely covers the panels.

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I never finished this project, however, because the one item in the assembly line that didn’t work was the factory correct 1597 paint that I bought from - you guessed it - that certain vendor!! I honestly can’t remember a single time in my life, working on cars for 20+ years, that ANY spray paint or aerosol can gave me trouble, but somehow all three of the $16 cans of specialty paint from this guy did this:

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This was the last straw, this stupid paint. He got me one last time! This is when I decided to part out the car.

While EVERY PANEL was stripped of any remaining insulation and adhesive, scrubbed clean with a mix of dish soap and white vinegar, rinsed, then cleaned again and degreased with SEM Solve, they still need paint, and they still need insulation, so I’m giving everything in these 2 pictures away FOR FREE. Any interior plastic not included in these pictures was not worth saving.

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All I ask is you pay for shipping (or come get them) and don’t just grab everything to hoard and sell later. I’m sure there are people who legitimately need some of these panels for their own projects. They are not pristine, but they are restorable, and they are free. The sail panels include the “opera lights” with a couple of new “warm white” LED bulbs installed.



FRONT & REAR SEATS ... $150

I don’t know how to price these. It appears to be a professional job and they’re in great shape, no stains, etc. but who cares if you don’t have a Dark Carmine over Tan car? They have a slight “sat in an old car for too long” smell, but no worse than any other old car I’ve ever been in. Shampoo or steam clean before install and they should be good as new. Anybody interested?

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ACC CARPET ... $75

Bought in 2014. Never used, never installed, no stains, no smells, sat in a box until this picture.

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DOOR PANEL JUTE INSULATION & MOISTURE BARRIER ... $25

Never even unrolled.

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toddzilla

New Member
INTERIOR 2

HEAD UNIT ... $50

This was purchased in 2006, never installed.

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ANALOG CLUSTER ... $150?

I don’t know what a good price is for this. My car had a digital dash. I hated it. I bought this to swap before learning how different the chassis harnesses are. Whoops! Figured if I was doing that much work, I might as well build my own custom set-up instead.

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toddzilla

New Member
LOOSE EXTRAS 1


SCANMASTER 2.1 + TR CUSTOM PARTS SHADE HOOD ... $200

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The shade hood has 2 blemishes (my fault) so small it’s hard to photograph them.

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AUTOMETER MECHANICAL SPEEDO ADAPTER ... $75

If you’re planning on running an aftermarket speedometer, you need one of these bad boys. It allows you to adapt the OEM cable speedo from the transmission to the one that fits the aftermarket speedo, while also sending the correct signal to the ECU. Comes with instructions.

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COMPLETE GM COOLANT RESERVOIR ... $45

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GM WASHER RESERVOIR & CAP ... $40

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KIRBAN(?) REAR SEAT BRACES ... $50

Installed, never used, then uninstalled. Hard not to scratch when you’re working solo. Includes hardware.

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POWERMASTER SWITCH ... $50

I thought this would fix my Powermaster woes, I was wrong. I didn’t have the special socket, so I chewed it up with pliers like a moron.

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toddzilla

New Member
LOOSE EXTRAS 2

KIRBAN “GNX” CENTER CAPS WITH BUICK LOGO EMBLEMS ... $60

I don’t remember where I got the Buick emblems, but they are hard plastic - not a sticker, not paper. If they’re not your taste, you can pop them out from behind and put in one of the many other available options from Kirban and others.

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KIRBAN BILLET BREATHER TUBES ... $25

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PRE-87 POWER STEERING CAP ... $15

Of course I bought the wrong one.

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STOCK VALVE COVERS, need a good blasting ... $25

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toddzilla

New Member
MECHANICAL 1

Before I start separating the mechanical stuff, is anybody interested in the “complete” rolling package of engine/trans + driveshaft + rear + frame + suspension + brakes, etc.? Swap the tub and you’d more or less be in business. That was always my plan.

I have no idea how to price this as a package. If I was separating everything I’d probably ask $3000 for the complete engine from air filter to downpipe + ECU, $650 for the two transmissions, $700 for the complete rear drum to drum, $500 for the (rebuilt) Powermaster, $350 for the aluminum rad, and maybe $800 for “the rest” - frame, gas tank, tub w/ good glass. But separating is more work for me, so... let’s talk!

I can/will compression test the engine upon request.

Stock 109 block, stock rotating assembly (I’m assuming), stock heads, all with ~80k miles.

This stuff was on the car when I bought it, age/mileage unknown

OEM MAF
Hemco intake
Adjustable FPR
009 Injectors
ECU with 009 chip
mystery Garrett/Precision turbo, ported inlet, numbers shaved (any guesses?)
Terry Houston(?) 3.5” stainless downpipe
Stock intercooler w/ shroud
Stock headers and crossover

The following engine/bay components were put on after the car came off the road and have zero miles of use

"Big Mouth" cold air intake & 14" K&N
Refurbished and ported OEM throttle body
IAC angle block
Billet vacuum block & vacuum lines
PTE turbo saver
Accel Extreme 9000 wires
Accel coilpack
Accel plugs
Stainless up pipe
Gates green stripe hoses & stainless t-bolt clamps
TA Performance black wrinkle PC valve covers + K&N breathers
Hall manual boost controller
Ratchet tie-down strap
Poly driver’s motor mount
Heater valve & hoses
Silicon water pump hose
GM radiator hoses
PTS Xtreme aluminum radiator with internal cooler
Stainless braided oil cooler lines

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