Paint guys step on in

Rugby

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Would it be wise to paint everything at the same time opposed to painting say the fenders then a few weeks/months later painting the doors trunk ect.....

Or paint the jams firewall ect put car together them do a total spray all at once?
 
If its a black car you can paint in parts . I always use the same steps on all parts same amout of air pressure coats of base and clear .
 
If its a black car you can paint in parts . I always use the same steps on all parts same amout of air pressure coats of base and clear .

This right here is how I do them. No tape lines look better I think sometimes even faster than jamming, putting somewhat together and then painting. I even do this on tricoat colors.
 
We just painted my bud's 62 "Sudsmaker". [Studebaker]
It is a tricoat system, w/ a red candy pearl top.
The painter shot several spray outs, and did them at different times. The "match" was a bit of concern, so it was jambed out, we assembled it, and painted all outer surfaces in 1 session..Must say, IT LOOKS GREAT! Other than a few dust nibs, it'll take virtually no sanding.
 
I keep a spray out library of common problem colors. There was a Honda color called sage brush that was horrible and when sprayed, didn't match the ppg color chip. I did 2 spray outs 1 week apart, and the ppg rep did one from their mixing bank. We had 3 different colors that wouldn't pass for a bumper match.
 
The refinish process is the most challenging part of the repair. Its really up to you regarding what fits your situation the best. All over paint jobs reduce tape lines but its really personal preference. I would recommend using the same base from the same can. Or if you mix yourself mix enough base to do the job. That should cover you for match issues on our black cars. My paint is 10 years old. Still have some of the old PPG base-kept it in the house so it didn’t freeze. Surprising it still matches. Car sits in the garage most of the time tho.:D
 
If it's fine to paint in pieces should I paint parts like fenders or doors hanging on somthing rather than sitting on a cart?

Not sure which way I am going to as I am still 2-3 months away from starting body work of any kid.
 
Solid or metallic color? Solid laying fenders or doors flat is ok. Metallic you will want to hang them or the metallic might lay funny and alter color.
 
What's the typical amount of paint need for a complete repaint of a gn?

I am planing and budgeting so I know how much to set aside for materials.
 
What's the typical amount of paint need for a complete repaint of a gn?

I am planing and budgeting so I know how much to set aside for materials.
3qts did mine, jambs and all. I seal it with black primer and painted everything off the car.
 
Sorry for all of my newbie questions on paint. This will be my first venture into paint work and I want to do it right.

Just so I am clear in my head..........
1 - Sand down to bare metal
2 - spray epoxy primer - High Build Primer?
3 - Do any body work with filler
4 - Spray Urethane Primer (Would this be a 2K primer?)
5 - Base Coat
6 - Cleat
7 - Wet sand with 1500, 2000 , 3000
8 - polish

Does this sound right?
 
Sorry for all of my newbie questions on paint. This will be my first venture into paint work and I want to do it right.

Just so I am clear in my head..........
1 - Sand down to bare metal
2 - spray epoxy primer - High Build Primer?
3 - Do any body work with filler
4 - Spray Urethane Primer (Would this be a 2K primer?)
5 - Base Coat
6 - Cleat
7 - Wet sand with 1500, 2000 , 3000
8 - polish

Does this sound right?
Sounds good just after body filler spray epoxy on any bare metal spots again.

Yes urethane is 2k. If you are brave block clear coat with 800 first then 1000, 2000 than 3000
 
A very good tip is use a gide coat over your 2 k primer spray a light coat of dark primer over top of your lighter 2k primer when block sanding the darker primer will show all your dings dents and flaws
 
A very good tip is use a gide coat over your 2 k primer spray a light coat of dark primer over top of your lighter 2k primer when block sanding the darker primer will show all your dings dents and flaws
Very good advice, also get a bunch of different sanding blocks (long and short). First blocking use longer blocks with coarser sandpaper (180-220). Reprime and block with 400 if straight.
 
I HAVE OVERALLED SEVERAL GRAND NATIONALS. I PREFER TO PAINT IN SECTIONS. I REFINISH THE ROOF,QUARTERS, ALL THE ADJACENT JAMBS AND ROCKERS AT THE SAME TIME( DOORS TAPED UP AND OPEN) THERE ARE NO TAPE LINES ON THE QUARTER JAMBS, THEY ARE BEAUTIFUL. I THEN WOULD REFINISH HOOD,TRUNK OFF THE CAR,AGAIN JAMBS AT THAT TIME. LASTLY, I REFINISH FENDERS AND DOORS. YA, IT TAKES A FEW DAYS TO PAINT IN SECTIONS,HOWEVER I'HAVE HAD GOOD RESULTS(BLACK ALWAYS MATCHES)
 
I dont like epoxy primer on a body. Epoxy is an old technology. If you keep it thin, it is ok to use. The paint companies dont recommend using filler over it anymore either, that is an old 1990s technique.
To get a flat finish, you will need to block with 1000 or even 800, then 1500, 2000 blocked, then 3000 on a DA. I like to buff with a foam pad, and final polish with an orbital.
 
(The paint companies dont recommend using filler over it anymore either, that is an old 1990s) Toyota still requires this before filler is applied on their cars per ICAR standards.
 
I dont like epoxy primer on a body. Epoxy is an old technology. If you keep it thin, it is ok to use. The paint companies dont recommend using filler over it anymore either, that is an old 1990s technique.
To get a flat finish, you will need to block with 1000 or even 800, then 1500, 2000 blocked, then 3000 on a DA. I like to buff with a foam pad, and final polish with an orbital.


What would you spray first?
 
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