Overfilling Tranny Fluid

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dave84gn

Guest
So I took my car to the shop to get my valve springs changed. I get it back, and (among other probs) it's shifting differently. Basic probs is it's hanging in gear a little too long, most noticable in 2nd gear, I'll be running, say, 3k rpm at constant speed and it won't shift until I bring it up to maybe 3.5k. When it does shift, it shifts normally, not long or hard.

Before the car was shifting at around 2k rpm and would get into OD basically right away (assuming I wasn't accelerating hard), no high rpm shifts or anything. This seems more proper to me.

So I check my fluid after driving it for a decent amount and it's 3/4 inch overfilled (up to the last bend in the dipstick). I checked it hot, cold, running, not running, every time it was the same amount (basically). The shop doesn't claim to have filled it, but they must have, I guess. Anyway, I drained the fluid and filled it to the proper level (actually I accidentally overfilled it by about an 1/8 of an inch), and the shifting doesn't seem to be any different.

So my question is: what sort of effects would I notice if my tranny fluid was overfilled the car was driven to full hot... would it damage it? Also, should I be concerned about my overfilling it just slightly, or does it make any difference?

If it isn't the fluid that's causing these shifts, any ideas what might be?

Thanks guys!

Dave
 
I would try the TV cable ANd if that doesnt work you may want to check to see if anything is pluged (lines, radiator.) I had something slowly coming apart in my trans and it pluged my radiator and it acted just like you say, checked overfull, and shifted the same did not want to go into O.D. and took forever to go into 2nd.I flushed it out and the trans worked fine until whatever was breaking up broke.
 
I agree with the TV cable--I'd bet the shop probably caught the TV cable with the valve cover or some tool & tightened it a notch or two! (the trans may have been too full to start with?)
 
Thanks for the replies guys...

I'm 99% sure the fluid was perfect before, as I changed it about a month ago and had it filled right to the "full hot" mark after I warmed the car up to full hot.

Anyway... I'll check the TV cable and see how that goes.

Had a question about what JasonB said. What do you mean by 'something was coming apart in your trans'? An internal part of the transmission was breaking apart or something?

Also, I just installed a transmission cooler (that's how I was able to drain the fluid without dropping the pan). The transmission oil section of the stock radiator seems to flow fine. In fact it flows quite FAST :) Shot trans fluid all over my engine in a second, heh.

Anyway, thanks again, and if anyone has anymore thoughts on why the trans oil would suddenly check as overfilled be sure to add your thoughts. Thx!

Dave
 
Heh, I'm a happy camper. TV cable adjustment fixed her right up :)

Thx for the help.

Dave
 
Oh yea, also, I spoke to the other mechanic who finished up the work on my car, and he said he added tranny fluid. "It leaked on the ground and it checked low so I added some". Well sure, it was cold! Grrr. Anyway, that's dealt with.

Dave
 
I run my tranny 1 qt over. it keeps the tranny from starving out under accel.
 
Mike, thanks for askin. I don't think valve springs were the entire problem but they were definitely part of it. She feels a little stronger, particularly right when ya gun it, on its way to full throttle. I'm even able to chirp a little from a slow roll :)

However, at WOT I'm still not getting nearly the power I'd expect, it's just not givin me much at all. While boost is a little low at around 10psi, I still expect more power.

I took her back to the shop as a little follow-up visit today. The guy who originally drove my car drove it again and sort of agreed with what I said above -- a noticable difference, but still something wrong. Two mechanics at the shop (Sturgeon automotive) are leaning toward turbo issues. During the drive today, the mech disconnected the wastegate hose which I assume effectly removes the wastegate from the equation. We were only able to build 14psi of boost when openning up the throttle, then it would flatten out around 10 to 12. Boost is a little erratic in general, even according to my autometer gauge connected right to the manifold.

One thing the mech pointed out was that, while idling in park, if you press the trottle, the response of the engine seems quite slow. In fact, in the car in park, if I slam the peddle right down and take my foot off right away, the engine only revs to 1.5rpm from an idle of 0.7 or so. This normal? Should the engine rev up right away?

Gtech results (off the top of my head):

Before valve springs: 0-60 in 8.9s, 16.9@84
After: 0-60 in 8.4s, 16.50@89

I believe I remembered those correctly (paper is in my car with em), the MPH may be a little high, oh well.

Anyway, I'm expecting my JL chip, F pump & hotwire kit this week. I figure I'll slap those in and see how she runs.

I plan to put together a more complete bunch of info for the TB.com guys to chew on, but any ideas anyone has now would be helpful.

Thanks!

Dave

ps. I ordered a turbolink, which I assume won't get here for quite a while. when ya get yours you should help out my sorry a$s ;)
 
hmm, that stab on the throttle shoulda picked it up past 1500! The only way the turbo would have anything to do with that would be if it's not spinning at idle! (?) Someone maybe stick a pack of twinkies in the intake tube?
;)

I'd check your timing with a light, make sure it's more than 10° BTDC...

How old is yer cam? Cat (if any)? Timing chain?
 
Heh, that would be a nice fix, remove the twinkies! Naw, the tubes are fine, checked em out while they were off at the shop. MAF sensor wasn't too dirty either (accordin to the mech.).

No cat. Stock cam and timing chain. Do these things have a tendency to break down?

I'll check the timing when I get a chance (I should be able to figure it out!). Tell me more about the whole timing thing... the chain controls cam & crank(piston) timing right? And the computer controls spark? So if the timing chain is bad, will I be getting bad timing and the computer won't know about it?

Dave
 
Dave,I had the exact same problem with response a week ago It was acting like it was real tired and I swapped in an old hypertech chip in place of the stocker and it was an instant animal compared to before.Seems the stock chip don't like mods too much.It's what worked for me anyways.I bet that JL chip will solve it instantly.
 
Originally posted by dave84gn

Where do I install the chip? passengerside under the carpet? I have no idea :(



Remove the Neg Batt Cable, or disconnect the ECM wire

Go on the passenger side, and look at the passenger kick panel
(if you were sitting in the pass seat move your right foot all the way over to the right..that plastic thing is the kick panal)

Remove the kick panal by taking the one screw out..it should be a large flat head screw.

Side the large plastic peice torwards the back of the car and you will notice a metal box in it (thats your ECM)

Remove the Plastic around it and slide out the ECM.

Find the side of the ECM with a raised plate that has 2 small screws holding it down.

Remove the screws and the plate, and that will expose the chip.

Putting equal pressure on both sides of the chip it should pull out, and replace it with the new one...make sure its in there tight..

Replace all the stuff, and make it look like it did before you started workin on it!


The car MIGHT run a little odd at first because the car needs to "learn" the chip..but at the same time it might run well as soon as you start it up.
 
Thx Herb, it's sometimes hard to find people to answer my "newbie" questions, so thanks!

Dave
 
Originally posted by dave84gn
Thx Herb, it's sometimes hard to find people to answer my "newbie" questions, so thanks!

No problem...when I first got my car I didnt know what that "round" thing was under my hood (A turbo)...we all have to learn things someway!
 
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