How do I fix this leak ?

Turbo Keith

TURBO KEITH
Joined
Sep 16, 2015
I can't seem to fix this , I have lightly sanded and cleaned both sides but it still leaks .
IMG_2534 (1).jpg
 
Have you tried the rjc gasket or try RTV high temp.

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When I replaced the turbo I just made sure the surfaces were super clean and smooth but iirc it came with a copper gasket if needed. Could be over many years the surfaces have become very slightly warped and would need a light milling. Do you have a gasket?
 
I may try the high temp rvt

That won't work for very long.

You need a Remflex gasket in that spot and quality hardware. The heat will cause fasteners to release if you really drive the car. Once they've cycled out, they'll never clamp right again. They just keep stretching. Mild steel or even 10.8 hardened steel won't survive. You need stainless in that location, or Inconel if you manage to cycle the stainless out.
 
dont put anything there.. it will burn off don’t waste your time need to make sure both sides are completely flat then tighthen it down. ...dp flange looks old...
 
Pull your downpipe out of the car and find a small mirror or piece of plate glass. (it won't be flat, but it'll be flat enough for this).

Tape some fine grit wet/dry sand paper on the glass TIGHT and make a few easy figure 8's on the surface. The high spot will light up like a Crimmus tree.


Do NOT get a sanding block or a piece of 2X4 and make it ''look clean and flat''.


Once it's actually flat enough, skim coat some RTV on there, let it skin over and put it back on the turbo. If you bump the flange and 'cut' the RTV, pull it off and start again.

Once all 4 bolts are started, let the two surfaces meet each other without torquing them down. Once they're friends, bottom all four bolts, drink another beer, then torque them down.

That area isn't hard to seal. There's not much pressure there. You just can't grab a ziz wheel, go to town on a machined surface, then expect them to mate correctly.
 
Easy, just place a gasket, you can go to ebay and purchase one for $20...here's the link.....
Buick Grand National Turbo to Downpipe Exhaust Gasket,
going to try to post a picture of it, it worked for me
20200212_163423.jpg
 
So I have read all the help and a gasket seems to be the simplest but I'm told not to use one , Is this correct ? And I Thank you Guys for the help
 
No it's not correct, I've had a gasket on mine for 15 years similar to the one in the photo posted, puck works just fine on my Mease downpipe.
 
If you haven't done this already, remove the cat/test pipe...and see if it 'flushes' up when you snug the bolts up.
 
Thank you guys for the help , I'm gonna remove the dp and make sure its flat . From what I understand its not the end of the world if it is a very small leak at the location .
 
Spring type lock washers will lose their set, after a few hi temp heat cycles.
The machinist dye, a large file, and some sweat equity, is what we use.
Look at the dp hanger. it may be loading the pipe, when the engine torques over, causing a lot of stress on the flange bolts.
 
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