ChrisCairns
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
For those of you who want to go fast.....this recipe is the most famous...being Ken Moshers's "Stock" one......I used this one just to see if it worked....and it did....lol. I ran a 12.6.x. Try it. No, do it, and you'll see the same results.
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First, add a Boost guage. A MUST ... the stock gauge is useless after 15 lbs
Install 160F Thermostat and block off the throttle body coolant lines. These lines run to the bottom of the throttle body and provide warm coolant to the throttle body for cold start purposes. Blocking them off does not affect cold start and will prevent warming of the intake charge.
Make an Adjustable Wastegate with $2 worth of hardware and 1/4"-20 NC die. In conjunction with this upgrade, add stronger intercooler hoses. This prevents them from blowing off under increased boost levels.
Install Oil breather block off kit for passenger's side valve cover. This kit consists of a small K&N filter for the valve cover and plugs the hole in the Turbo inlet bell. This prevents the turbo from ingesting oil from the valve cover under boost and keeps the intercooler/intake tract clean and free of power robbing oil deposits. Oil in the intercooler can adversely affect its heat exchange capacity and oil in the intake charge can lower the effective octane of fuel.
Install transmission cooler for reliability. Reductions of tranny fluid temperature, both on the street and on the track, will significantly extend the life of your transmission.
Install Cold Air Induction kit from ATR or K-B or K&N cone filter.
For extra street "spice", add Free flowing 2 1/2" dual exhaust with low restriction mufflers (e.g. Walker Super Dynomax Turbos).
Newly available for extremely fast cars are the Thrush CVX mufflers, the Walker Ultra Flow Turbo mufflers, and the stainless steel 2 3/4" systems from Bowling Green Customs and ATR. Not needed for track only mixture, since you can open up the test pipe (See Next Step)
Install converter Test Tube with cutout for track use.
Install "237" Regulator for 36-38 psi idle, 56-58 psi at 17 psi of boost with stock pump. 60-65 psi at 20 lbs boost. An Adjustable regulator is highly recommended and is preferred, since it allows you to compensate for air conditions.
Install an engine tie down strap (i.e. Turbo Tie or Stealth Engine Anchor). This helps prevent the engine from tearing up motor mounts.
Install Fuel Enhancer or high flow in-tank pump to enhance fuel pressure and volume. There are several high flow in-tank pumps (such as the XP from Red Armstrong) that will also work well into the 11s.
Install 26"x10"x15" Micky Thompson slicks on Enkei 15"x8" wheels (rear). Makes a more "sticky" consistency. Optionally, use 26"x8.5"x15" M/T slicks on 7" wheels ... they work very well, are cheap and are good for well into the mid 12s (easy)).
Add in Pinion Snubber and drive shaft loop (required for NHRA/IHRA safety).
Mix in rear air bags for adjustablity. Run 6 psi left and 9-11 psi right bag. This allows the car to squat and lift the front, but plants the rear tires equally. You may have to experiment for your car, the weight of the driver, etc to get nice even launches.
Add in Strip Chip - high boost, temperature control, advance, converter lockup. Add ingredient to owner's taste. Red Armstrong's 108 chip was used to add "flavor".
Install larger rear brake cylinders. Use cylinders designated for a mid 80s S-10 pickup trucks with manual brakes.
Install Hurst rebuildable line-lock. This saves alot of wear and tear on components during the burnout... highly recommended !.
NOTE: At this point the car should be a solid 12.50-60 car. On a "good air" day my car turned a best of 12.32 @ 109.5 with a 1.67 sixty foot time. Chuck's GN turned a 12.28 @ 109.7 on the same day. You can probably get another tenth by running on a track at a lower altitude (ours is at 1400 feet).
********************
Yep, technology has change a lot of it. But it you follow the "old" technology you'll be right on with it's results.
I am just being melancoly right now.....the old 'uns ain't posting and life is passing by. You guys who are young and weren't around don't remember the friggin' arguments. laughs,
incorrect info, immediately corrected and we all learned.
Fu-ckit....how many of you remember Scott Keller, the daddy of us all from "The List" , Ken Moser, the diplomat who kept it together while we were all involved in arguments...Dwight Hayden, who kept us together with humor, Steve Wood, who settled on a farm and quit, Mike Licht, who pissed people off with starting the first Bulletin Board, Jay Carter, the chip God at that time in history, Dan Smith, the one from St. Louis, prick who was very smart about these cars, Daryl Riegel and his dad who put out "The Source" magazine, with articles by Carl Ijames, Trey Crease, Fred Haumesser, Rich Inacker, and more people who most people will remember but with my old memory, I can't.
One more I can't forget is the most knowledgable person about these cars I know through these boards and lists...is Kendall Frederick. Plus the rest of you ****s I can't remember cause my memory doesn't work like it used to.
So what's the point of this post??
Thanks to all you, from my perspective. And I miss the "beginning" so much since I see what has changed.
I "salute" all you people who taught us so much.
****************************************
First, add a Boost guage. A MUST ... the stock gauge is useless after 15 lbs
Install 160F Thermostat and block off the throttle body coolant lines. These lines run to the bottom of the throttle body and provide warm coolant to the throttle body for cold start purposes. Blocking them off does not affect cold start and will prevent warming of the intake charge.
Make an Adjustable Wastegate with $2 worth of hardware and 1/4"-20 NC die. In conjunction with this upgrade, add stronger intercooler hoses. This prevents them from blowing off under increased boost levels.
Install Oil breather block off kit for passenger's side valve cover. This kit consists of a small K&N filter for the valve cover and plugs the hole in the Turbo inlet bell. This prevents the turbo from ingesting oil from the valve cover under boost and keeps the intercooler/intake tract clean and free of power robbing oil deposits. Oil in the intercooler can adversely affect its heat exchange capacity and oil in the intake charge can lower the effective octane of fuel.
Install transmission cooler for reliability. Reductions of tranny fluid temperature, both on the street and on the track, will significantly extend the life of your transmission.
Install Cold Air Induction kit from ATR or K-B or K&N cone filter.
For extra street "spice", add Free flowing 2 1/2" dual exhaust with low restriction mufflers (e.g. Walker Super Dynomax Turbos).
Newly available for extremely fast cars are the Thrush CVX mufflers, the Walker Ultra Flow Turbo mufflers, and the stainless steel 2 3/4" systems from Bowling Green Customs and ATR. Not needed for track only mixture, since you can open up the test pipe (See Next Step)
Install converter Test Tube with cutout for track use.
Install "237" Regulator for 36-38 psi idle, 56-58 psi at 17 psi of boost with stock pump. 60-65 psi at 20 lbs boost. An Adjustable regulator is highly recommended and is preferred, since it allows you to compensate for air conditions.
Install an engine tie down strap (i.e. Turbo Tie or Stealth Engine Anchor). This helps prevent the engine from tearing up motor mounts.
Install Fuel Enhancer or high flow in-tank pump to enhance fuel pressure and volume. There are several high flow in-tank pumps (such as the XP from Red Armstrong) that will also work well into the 11s.
Install 26"x10"x15" Micky Thompson slicks on Enkei 15"x8" wheels (rear). Makes a more "sticky" consistency. Optionally, use 26"x8.5"x15" M/T slicks on 7" wheels ... they work very well, are cheap and are good for well into the mid 12s (easy)).
Add in Pinion Snubber and drive shaft loop (required for NHRA/IHRA safety).
Mix in rear air bags for adjustablity. Run 6 psi left and 9-11 psi right bag. This allows the car to squat and lift the front, but plants the rear tires equally. You may have to experiment for your car, the weight of the driver, etc to get nice even launches.
Add in Strip Chip - high boost, temperature control, advance, converter lockup. Add ingredient to owner's taste. Red Armstrong's 108 chip was used to add "flavor".
Install larger rear brake cylinders. Use cylinders designated for a mid 80s S-10 pickup trucks with manual brakes.
Install Hurst rebuildable line-lock. This saves alot of wear and tear on components during the burnout... highly recommended !.
NOTE: At this point the car should be a solid 12.50-60 car. On a "good air" day my car turned a best of 12.32 @ 109.5 with a 1.67 sixty foot time. Chuck's GN turned a 12.28 @ 109.7 on the same day. You can probably get another tenth by running on a track at a lower altitude (ours is at 1400 feet).
********************
Yep, technology has change a lot of it. But it you follow the "old" technology you'll be right on with it's results.
I am just being melancoly right now.....the old 'uns ain't posting and life is passing by. You guys who are young and weren't around don't remember the friggin' arguments. laughs,
incorrect info, immediately corrected and we all learned.
Fu-ckit....how many of you remember Scott Keller, the daddy of us all from "The List" , Ken Moser, the diplomat who kept it together while we were all involved in arguments...Dwight Hayden, who kept us together with humor, Steve Wood, who settled on a farm and quit, Mike Licht, who pissed people off with starting the first Bulletin Board, Jay Carter, the chip God at that time in history, Dan Smith, the one from St. Louis, prick who was very smart about these cars, Daryl Riegel and his dad who put out "The Source" magazine, with articles by Carl Ijames, Trey Crease, Fred Haumesser, Rich Inacker, and more people who most people will remember but with my old memory, I can't.
One more I can't forget is the most knowledgable person about these cars I know through these boards and lists...is Kendall Frederick. Plus the rest of you ****s I can't remember cause my memory doesn't work like it used to.
So what's the point of this post??
Thanks to all you, from my perspective. And I miss the "beginning" so much since I see what has changed.
I "salute" all you people who taught us so much.