Ok somewhat confused with boost control

MikeS

Active Member
Add an AEM wideband o2 sensor to the list of things to do. About $170 and easy enough to install. Cheap insurance. The wideband is a more accurate way than the stock o2 sensor to tell whether you are lean or rich. You can then make fueling adjustments through the TT chip to dial in your WOT air-fuel ratio. I use an RJC manual boost controller in the hose going from turbo compressor to wastegate for fine tuning boost.
 

Dylan4570

Member
Get yourself a scanmaster.
Fuel pressure gauge.
Dont go wot till you look at all the numbers.
Keep boost down on pump 93.
Adjust the wastegate rod to control the boost.
Read the stickers here and ask questions.
Many of us will help.
in your opinion; Is a wideband an acceptable in car substitute for a fuel pressure gauge? at least as far as detecting there is an issue?

I just ask because I already have a wideband, but not an in car fuel pressure gauge, just a rail mounted one.
 

erikelvis

Member
I was considering a wideband. I’m limited on gauges to place inside the car. Really don’t like a pillar mounts. Have a 2 gauge holder for under the radio. Was thinking I’d do boost and wideband. For fuel pressure I’d just use one of those test and tune up to the windshield to make sure pressure is ok then take it off.
 

MikeS

Active Member
I was considering a wideband. I’m limited on gauges to place inside the car. Really don’t like a pillar mounts. Have a 2 gauge holder for under the radio. Was thinking I’d do boost and wideband. For fuel pressure I’d just use one of those test and tune up to the windshield to make sure pressure is ok then take it off.
Just my opinion- I have the wideband mounted on top of the steering column in my line of sight. Scanmaster is on top of the dash also in line of sight. The most important things I look for are no knock, and AFR within the target range I like to run as I drive around. Boost, oil pressure, and coolant temp gauges are either on the A pillar or under the radio so I can reference them periodically. Fuel pressure gauge is on a 3 foot braided hose under the hood. I can tape it to the windshield for troubleshooting purposes while driving, otherwise it stays under the hood.
 

'87 Turbo "T"

What a complete shitshow!!
Another good rule of thumb, you want your fuel pressure rising 1:1 with boost.

I’m not huge on gauges either I have FP on “A” pillar, 3 gauge(boost, oil, & water) next to cluster, & two pod(volts & AFR).
 

'87 Turbo "T"

What a complete shitshow!!
T Front Interior.JPG
 

1986 Buick GX1

GX1 #001 [The One and Only]
I was considering a wideband. I’m limited on gauges to place inside the car. Really don’t like a pillar mounts. Have a 2 gauge holder for under the radio. Was thinking I’d do boost and wideband. For fuel pressure I’d just use one of those test and tune up to the windshield to make sure pressure is ok then take it off.

GNS Performance has some other gauge options.


TR Customs has a nice hood mount for a fuel pressure or other gauge.

 

'87 Turbo "T"

What a complete shitshow!!
Nope. Have to take off instrument panel surround & it attaches with one screw.

Pull wires, etc put surround back on.
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
in your opinion; Is a wideband an acceptable in car substitute for a fuel pressure gauge? at least as far as detecting there is an issue?

I just ask because I already have a wideband, but not an in car fuel pressure gauge, just a rail mounted one.
No sir
No way
I have seen fuel pressure fall off drop before its seen on the wideband.
Wideband is only a view of all 6 cylinders
You can have a cylinder go lean a cook
Meanwhile afr is good.
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
Just my opinion- I have the wideband mounted on top of the steering column in my line of sight. Scanmaster is on top of the dash also in line of sight. The most important things I look for are no knock, and AFR within the target range I like to run as I drive around. Boost, oil pressure, and coolant temp gauges are either on the A pillar or under the radio so I can reference them periodically. Fuel pressure gauge is on a 3 foot braided hose under the hood. I can tape it to the windshield for troubleshooting purposes while driving, otherwise it stays under the hood.
Your fuel gauge is useless to see how your pumps are doing filling the line in real time.
Seeing what the fuel pressure is doing before combustion takes place has many advantages
Looking at after the cylinders has disadvantages.
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
I wouldn’t say I’ve been hammering the car.
If you are out riding around and doing full throttle with it or even somewhat hard acceleration, and it is spark knocking you aren't doing it any favors.
The rest is just replacing parts.
If you think just replacing parts will get you the most out of your vehicle I have some bad news for you. Any knuckle dragger can be a parts changer. Those cars that really perform have had a lot more "effort" put in than just changing parts.
 

TireFryer

The New Kid
I had a spare a pillar that I installed and I kept the original one clean and without holes. Have 3 gauges on a Pillar and a hood mounted mechanical fuel pressure gauge.

Scanmaster g, oil psi, and boost gauge on a pillar. Nice clean look in my opinion
9A3B9654-90E0-40A6-B747-531B553E250C.jpeg
090788F9-8456-4C16-BC35-ECB346070197.jpeg
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
Post your Scanmaster readings with the car warmed up in Park. Until then, don't drive it. If you don't know how old the fuel pump is, put a new one in it. If not, I have vids on how to change head gaskets. Erics chip does not control boost.
 
Top