Oil flow direction in cooler

[BoostMasterK]

Quick question- can anyone tell me what direction the engine oil flows into the radiator cooler- top in/bottom out, etc.?

I'm trying to reverse flush it.


TIA,

Mike

 

[pacecarta]

top is in , out from engine after thermostat , youll need to remove it to flush in reverse
bottom is out , back to pump
same goes for oil cooler and trans cooler

 

[Fuelie600]

Have you hurt your motor? or are you just wanting to flush it? If the cooler has injested metal from a failure, you can't ever trust it again to be free from contaminates---it will not flush flush completely. Replace it or bypass it. Brian

 

[LV GN]

top is return (out) for transmission.

 

[BoostMasterK]

Thanks very much for the replies.

Fuelie600 I didn't hurt my motor, it hurt me.

I've heard both ways on this but can you tell me *why* it can't be flushed out?


Thanks!

Mike [

 

[Fuelie600]

Take a look at the design of the mesh inside the cooler, and you'll see why. To many debri traps--there is no possible way you can be assured it's free from contaminates. To me, I would never chance a fresh engine ( bearings ) to a debried cooler. Brian

 

[JDEstill]

I flushed mine out several years ago and haven't been able to blame any problems on doing that. Maybe I got lucky, maybe not. Any oil that goes through the oil cooler *has* to go through the filter. Unless you have a filter with a bypass inside it, any debris that works its way loose will get caught there.

When I flushed mine I used a garden hose, putting as much water through the cooler as I could, going in both directions. I caught samples of the water coming out, and once I started catching samples with no visible material I flushed it for another 5 or 10 minutes (both ways) and then figured it was clean. Drained it, blew it out, filled it up with rubbing alcohol a few times, draining and blowing it out each time, to make sure it was bone dry and no water was sitting in there.

Worked for me.

John

 

[BoostMasterK]

Thanks for the replies. I haven't looked into the cooler hole, but I see your point. My plan was similar to John's, flush both ways but I was going to use compressed air and brake cleaner. The hose would be better though if I can cobble up some fittings.

If I get the time, I'll be messing with that this weekend...


Mike

 

[Blown&Injected]

Don't think you can escape me with a screen name change!

I used a drill powered pump and a continuos loop of solvent to flush mine and it looked like all the junk was pushed out with the first few ounces of flush - It came out right a way.

I have read on the net that there is no way to clean the oil cooler because it has "stuff" in the cooler that will hold junk. Not sure I believe it but as much as a new engine costs and the extra cooling = sold new oil cooler.

Some day I will use a bore scope to look inside and see for my self

 

[JDEstill]

I will say that if you still have the original oil cooler, there might be something to gain by swapping in a new one. It's been a while but the stocker is a... 2 plate? And the upgrade is a 3 plate? Something like that. At my first rebuild I replaced my oil cooler with the upgrade. Lower pressure drop and better cooling = sold! in my book. It was the next time around that I flushed it instead of replacing it.

After spending a small fortune the first time around doing everything in my power to make the new engine live, I said screw it the 2nd time. That one I did on the cheap. I figured I would trust the oil filter to do its job if some piece of trash did come out of the cooler.

Don't forget to flush the lines out too.

John

 

[Dusty Bradford]

I wouldn't trust a contaminated oil cooler myself. It's not that the cooler can't be flushed but the heat expansion from the hot engine oil will cause any lodged material to break free. When you flush with water or a solvent you are cleaning the oil and loose material out of the cooler. The metal that may have lodged in the cooler when it's hot can't be flushed because the clearances around it have closed up. When it heats back up some material can get free. It's a chance you take, if you don't have any lodged in the cooler then you will be fine. It's your motor, you make the call.

 

[BoostMasterK]

UPDATE- oil cooler flushing

I flushed it about 2 dozen times, back and forth... catching the loot in a white rag.

Alot of crap came out in the first few flushes and then it was clean but I kept on going just to be sure. Finally I declared victory and went to dry it out with the compressor. Low and behold after all that flushing I hit it with air for a few seconds and a sliver comes out.

Bottom line, you might get lucky but there is little justification to trust the oil cooler again.

As for the filter, I would guess the bypass is active on startup (?) and the most crap came out when I first hit the line with pressure. So my theory is the initial burst is what kicks things free and that's when the filter might be bypassed.

I'm ordering an external. Next time I have the radiator out for cleaning I'll get it recored and go back to it.

 

[TurboJim]

Ack...I am not even using my cooler. I have a PTE turbo saver in mine and figgered with good oil, that extra quart or 2 would make the difference. Ehhh..only put 200 miles on mine last summer...screw it.

 

[BoostMasterK]

TurboJim what an irresponsible statement from the chief technical officer of the JCC racing team! Caution to the wind, you say?

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