Oil filter with M18x1.5 threads, anti-drain back valve and internal by-pass valve

stickybones

What?
Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Does anyone know if such a filter exists? The Wix site says the 51036 that is a popular choice in this forum does NOT have the internal by-pass. I can't find such a filter in the Baldwin catalog either.
 
Well this is kind of embarrassing. About 15yrs ago, I rebuilt my engine. I don't remember every detail of the rebuild, but I do have a note about blocking the bypass in the pump because I was under the impression the bypass was weak and would essentially always let oil by. I don't remember exactly how I "blocked" it. I had a custom threaded adapter made to screw onto the stock M18x1.5 thread so I could run a larger Baldwin filter with a 20psi internal bypass. The threads on that adapter are damaged now so I removed it and I'm back to the stock M18 thread. I see that RJC sells a similar adapter, but I also can't find a filter to match those 13/16-16 threads that has an internal bypass either.

I don't use the oil cooler housing.

My other option would be undoing what I did to block the bypass in the pump if I could just remember what I did. I know I didn't make it up. I followed some advice on this board or gnttype.org or somewhere else.
 
...and I did find a Baldwin filter, B40000, that has the right threads, anti-drain back valve, 8 psi internal bypass and what appears to be the correct gasket size, but it's a tiny little thing. I'd prefer something larger.
 
Call T/A perf, RJC, or wrecking yards, and find the correct cover/housing. Buy it. Install it.
TIMINATOR
 
You probably knocked the original valve out and tapped it for a pipe plug.....
 
I was carb and distributor tuning a BBC about 20 years ago one February (here in AZ.) it was about 50 degrees and the customer "winged" it after reinstalling them. When the filter split, it doused my ankles, shoes, and HEADERS with oil, he was lucky the headers were cold too. Plugging the bypass is an incredibly stupid idea!
In the words of a customer that was an engine designer for G.M. for 30 years puts it: "The oil filter bypass is only there to protect the filter from splitting if an UNEDUCATED person revs a cold engine! It is deemed necessary to ensure that unfiltered oil gets to the engine, rather than on the ground!"
I am lucky to have:
Engine designer
Gas turbine engineer
Oil analyst (automotive and airplane)
Air flow dynamicist
Fastener engineer
And several mechanical engineers as customers and friends!
Some of what I post is from my background as a custom engine builder/machinist,and chassis fabricator (40+ yrs), certified (years ago) Bridge & Structural welder, and a lot of customers and friends that are smarter than me!
I ask if I don't know, and I listen.
No brag, just fact...
TIMINATOR
 
Is it just me or can no one find posts from before like 2009? Whatever I did has been working since then. I didn't just wing it. There was some detailed "instructions" on this "mod" that I did. Damn. It seems like I can't access the old tech archives on gnttype.org either.
 
There is precious little info from 14 years ago that is still relevent... Other than that most life lessons can be learned from 50s and 60s rock and roll, or Star Trek the Original series!
Cam, springs, tires, oil, machining, and airflow tech is constantly evolving!
In the old days it was thought that every drop of oil needed to be building pressure in the galleries to prevent metal to metal contact. That's before synthetic oils with superior film strength were formulated. It used to be that oil film strength was directly related to viscosity (thickness), and oil pressure, thats not true any more!
A customer forgot to install the oil pump driveshaft in his 460 Ford jetboat engine that I machined and assembled the short block and he assembled the rest. He broke the cam in for 20 minutes, and then noticed it didn't have any oil pressure. I told him check the gauge or bring the motor back. I pulled the dist. No driveshaft. Upon dissembly the bearings were fine! The cam was going flat, but once we cleaned out the metal, we looked at the bearings, and reassembled it.
The pump wasn't turning, so no metal got to the bearings!
YAY for Clevite bearing guard assembly lube! He ran that boat for about 5 years and traded it off.
Pro Stock and NASCAR are running less oil pressure and thinner oils than ever before. "0 w 5 oils and even thinner are used because the film strength is so much better, and allows it.
You younger guys may not know that oil was "devalued" at least twice, first during the first fake oil embargo in the mid 70s, and later in the 90s. Engineers figured that it was easier to "devalue" (reduce the viscosity) of all the automotive oils sold, rather than try to educate folks to use the next weight lighter oil to improve fuel mileage and cold start/ warm up characteristics to conserve fuel. Nowadays with displacement on demand and cam phasing control, correct oil viscosity is very important to longevity of engines internal parts.
Nobody's V-6 Buick made 100 to over 150 H.P. per cylinder back then. Now with improvements to materials, techniques, and machining practices, these levels are commonplace.
Bottom line: you can look at old posts for general info and entertainment purposes, but find out what current tech is before modifying anything!
That is all! Class dismissed, for now....
TIMINATOR
 
Back "in the day" oil pressure was used to create an oil "wedge" between the bearings and crank, nowadays the oils film strength supports the load, and hydrodynamic wedge becomes less important. Hydrodynamic wedge is like a boat planing on top of the water. Water is not much of a lubricant, but it does support the boat. The superior film strength of the oil allows less pressure and flow volume, but the oil must still have enough flow to remove heat from the bearings.
The worst synthetic oil is superior to the best dinosaur oil.
One other thing, single viscosity oil has superior lubricity to multi grade oil. The long "chain" molecules that are the additive to an oil to make it thicker when hot, and thinner when cold, do not add to the lubricity of oil, they only act to keep the viscosity constant over a larger temperature range. A single viscosity oil AT THE TEMPERATURE IT IS DESIGNED TO OPERATE AT lubricates better than a multi grade oil. Most modern oils are so far above the lubrication requirements of the engines they are used in, this is not an issue for most of us.
TIMINATOR
OK, now I'm done.
 
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