No start: Fires with starter fluid need some help

turbo96max

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Short story,

I blew a hg at the track, pushed the psi past the happy point . no knock afrs were good. apparently got slight ding on the #6 fire ring next to the water jacked, other than that gaskets looks good.

anyhow, i drove the car missing and spitting fog on and off the trailer at home.

completed the job and now the car will not run.

1.confirmed noid light blicks on all 6 injectors
2.confirmed have spark at all 6 wires
3.reset the cam sensor
4.all grounds to the back of the head are secured
5. get the one blink on the dash with ignition key and then steady on
6. reset the sd chip settings to default (setting 21 -1)
7.fuel pressure while cranking 45 psi
8. new plugs
9.checked compression (140-145 on all cylinders)
10. verified injector harness is on correct cyl #, it is numbered

I have some concerns with mu injectors : I got them cleaned locally since they were out and running e85

The car runs if i spray starting fluid in the intake for 1-2 seconds then it dies (assuming it burns it up)


what do you guys think?

Can the cleaning process kill injectors? am i missing something?
 
Can you make a log of you cranking the car? Maybe we can see something there.

Thanks for chiming in Eric, I will grab a log file and upload it. I am also going to ohm out the injectors to make sure, looks like they should be set to 2.2 ohms just incase maybe the shop messed them up somehow.
 
"Can the cleaning process kill injectors? am i missing something?"
What was used to "clean" them?
How long were they out of the engine? [After cleaning.]
Were they lubed/packaged after cleaning?
Depending on:
What was used to clean them.
Lubed or not.
Left in open air for extending time.
They could be locked up.
Flow fluid can/will evaporate, leaving them dry and stuck shut.
 
Thanks for chiming in Eric, I will grab a log file and upload it. I am also going to ohm out the injectors to make sure, looks like they should be set to 2.2 ohms just incase maybe the shop messed them up somehow.
The shop that cleaned them hasn't a way to change the ohm values....
 
Sounds like your on the right track with the injectors. Like Chuck mentioned, if they dried out they could be stuck closed.

Rick
 
i will ask about what was used, i dont believe they were lubed. they gave them to me in a sealed bag but i opened it up and left them in free air for about 2 weeks prior to putting them on the rails another 1 -2 weeks before they saw fuel . some are working as i smell the fuel when not starting. should i hear them 'click' as i confirmation that they are not stuck?
 
No lube/open air = issues.
You should be able to hear them click.
You may be able to take them out of the rail, rap on the side w/ a screw driver handle, to knock them loose.
A little Seafoam in each one and let them sit for a while, and rap them again.
 
Eric, Im trying to attach a file but get an error . Can I email them to you somewhere? . I put a flathead to the body of the injectors and i hear a little mid pitched click
 
Site allows the uploads two files attached. Any feedback is much appreciated. Im wondering if its possible for the crank sensor to still give injector pulse but maybe not correct somehow , i dont even know anymore .
 

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I am wondering why the fuel pressure was that low and you have been turn it over. After you turn the key on and try to crank it the pressure should stay up.
 
It should pop off better than that with starting fluid. Specially with the amount sprayed in. Any chance something is in the down pipe?

What do the plugs look like? Wet? dry?
 
If the gauge is right something is wrong the the pump or the hose in the tank is leaking down fast.
 
I see it now. Your map signal is not reading correctly. Check the vacuum line to the map sensor. It should not be tee'd with any other lines. You want a designated circuit when in speed density.
 
OK . The fuel pressure stays solid as long as the ignition is on. Once the key is turned back the pressure leaks out. Its been like this for a bit ever since I dropped in a double pumper. One new pump one used, i figured the pumps check valve or something was not 100% and the car ran so I didnt pursue it. Do i need to worry about fuel pressure while cranking only atleast just to get it to run? I can ground my hobb switch to turn on both and cranking psi will be around 55 - 60 psi
 
It should pop off better than that with starting fluid. Specially with the amount sprayed in. Any chance something is in the down pipe?

What do the plugs look like? Wet? dry?

you mean something blocking outbound exhaust flow? choking the engine?

tomorrow i will try cranking it up again and tripple check. but when i replaced my ur5s for rt42s last week they smelled like e85. not sure they were 'wet' but did smell . I will check my cam sensor once again making sure i set it on the compression stroke .
 
I see it now. Your map signal is not reading correctly. Check the vacuum line to the map sensor. It should not be tee'd with any other lines. You want a designated circuit when in speed density.

you see something funky in the logs? i dont have the latest sd setup i have his previous to the current setup. not sure it makes a difference but im almost 99% sure i have started this car before without the inputs connected to the powerlogger, it just would die right away. I will go outside not and remove the t i have on there now , it was sharing a source with the boos gauge . what did you see in the log i want to learn what you see lol
 
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