No start condition

getdowngranny

Mr. Fix It
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Straight to the point. Replaced powermaster with hydroboost and also replaced the speedometer cable.

No fuel prime. No SES light when you turn the ignition on. Therefore no start.
Scanmaster shows version then goes blank. Telling me the ecm is more than likely not getting power.
Gen2 translator powers on.
All fuses on the fuse block have power on both sides.
All fusable links test good.

I have spark for some reason.
If I jumper the fuel pump, I still have a no start with spark and fuel.

I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the work performed in the area of all the wiring.

Any direction would be greatly appreciated. Or a readable wiring schematic. The one I found on gnttype is almost unreadable.

Thank you.




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Orange ECM wire? Per some install directions, you disconnect that so you can prime/ bleed the steering pump after installing the hydroboost.
 
You need to check that the ECM is getting ignition power, pin a6 IIRC. Pretty easy to find a pinout of that on google. No power trace it back to the fuse panel. That entire fuel panel is not always hot. There are lots of circuits only hot when in the run/start position.

Like I said earlier via text besure you loaded test the circuit. Just because it lights up the test light does not mean it is good. It is possible to have voltage and no amperage.

Most likely it is somewhere you you have been today. That harness runs right by the powermaster and goes under the wiper motor. It is secured by an 8mm bolt to the fuse block. Those pins have lots of black gook on them that's 30 years old and could create high resistance.
 
I'll check A6 and C16 tomorrow when I put the wires back on the starter. If I get good voltage on both should I suspect a bad ECM?


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I'll check A6 and C16 tomorrow when I put the wires back on the starter. If I get good voltage on both should I suspect a bad ECM?


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Ecm has to have battery voltage for memory, ECM has to have ign voltage to wake up and start running. If both test good the ecm is bad.
 
I really hope when I check today that both voltages at the ECM are there. I would rather replace an ECM than chase down a bad connection in the wiring harness.
 
You replaced the speedo cable....cluster was out...may want to revisit that as well.
 
You replaced the speedo cable....cluster was out...may want to revisit that as well.
I did. Everything in the cluster works fine. But lets say the issue is there, what in the cluster can cause a no start condition. Does something in the cluster complete a circuit in order to start the car?
 
You need to get schmatics to understand how the car works. They are not hard to get.

The car is 30 years old, the harness's are 30 yr old, when you where in the dash or under the hood you distrubed, pinched, broke, pulled something that the car needs to start. No one on here is gonna have the exact answer you are looking for, just general things to look for.

Don't know what other advise to offer.
 
I completely understand Steve and I appreciate all the information. I am just to eliminate all the easy stuff (KISS method) before I dive into the wiring harness nightmare. I just wanted to make sure I am not overlooking anything simple.
 
I agree with #2. The orange wire can break inside of the connection to the battery terminal very easily. Did you have the battery disconnected?
 
Cam sensor is plugged in. Orange wire tests good up to firewall. I will check voltages at the ecm this afternoon.
 
C16 power good. A6 power good with ignition on. Safe to say the ECM is the culprit?


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Just curious did you try another cam sensor cap for the hell of it. Same thing happened to me. If you have a spare I would try it if you haven't already. Good luck man.
 
Just curious did you try another cam sensor cap for the hell of it. Same thing happened to me. If you have a spare I would try it if you haven't already. Good luck man.
Did you have no SES light also. Scanmaster blank?


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