Interesting.......
Pin P is also tied into the MAF sensor, i did receive spark for a sec after i unplugged maf iat and fan...
HMMM.... could a faulty connection inside the maf backfeed into the ICM?...
No start condition need help
- Thread starter 87chrisss
- Start date
Interesting.......
Pin P is also tied into the MAF sensor, i did receive spark for a sec after i unplugged maf iat and fan...
HMMM.... could a faulty connection inside the maf backfeed into the ICM?...
This has been a great thread. I'm pretty convinced my hard start issue is the ignition switch. Put a voltmeter on pin "M" on harness and noticed voltage dropped about .5v when I hit the steering wheel. Voltage is already .5v lower at "M" when probed. When I saw the pinout of the ignition switch posted earlier, I never realized how much shit routes through there and how dependent most of the car's vital functions depend on that part. Really knew something was up when my left turn signal quit working after framming on the steering wheel but started working again when I hit the wheel again.
Correct. I have never gotten an RPM signal on powerlogger when cranking
After multiple days of hard work, i finally got her to run about 20 minutes ago!
What i ended up doing is removing the harness from all sensors removing the tape, checking each wire/plug and visually inspecting each pin. I traced and verified each ground, i even removed the cruise control harness. I did see one funky corroded pin on the cruise control bulkhead. I sprayed contact cleaner on all pin's and mating surfaces. With a compressor i blew pressurized air into all sensors and plugs. I even did this too all relays on driver side, and on passenger side by the esc module. i also dropped the column again and checked my ignition switch installation and removed plugs to have a quick visual inspection. I removed and re- installed the crank and cam sensor reset timing after cleaning. One thing i did notice was the reluctor ring which slides thru the crank sensor was a bit dirty on one side. I checked every single pin on the ECM for verified voltage i also re-checked every single pin on ICM, All was good. I removed and inspected every single injector plug interesting enought #6 plug was kind of moist inside?? i cleaned all injector plugs and hit them with air as well.. Once i had finished putting this all back together i turned the key and she fired right up.
I hate to fix things like this without understanding the root cause of it but i can tell you one thing the cleaning of every sensor and plug really i think helped me out. Maybe she had a few little issues remember the car has been sitting for a few years non running. Well at the end i ran thru 2 cans of CRC contact cleaner. Since i was already their i re-tapped everything real nice as well. Then the final touch of the compressed air really helped with making sure all was clean.
Thank you guys for you help, i will make it a habit to clean the engine harness and contacts when buying a parked car that hasnt run in a while.
Opinions on what might have fixed this? Maybe the dirty reluctor ring it had a little spot of corrosion i sanded it down and cleaned it, maybe?
#6 injector plug was wet / humid?
Cruise control had a corroded pin on the bulkhead?
I'm glad i got her running now i need to re-pack the oil pump with vaseline and i will clean her up and post some pics,
What i ended up doing is removing the harness from all sensors removing the tape, checking each wire/plug and visually inspecting each pin. I traced and verified each ground, i even removed the cruise control harness. I did see one funky corroded pin on the cruise control bulkhead. I sprayed contact cleaner on all pin's and mating surfaces. With a compressor i blew pressurized air into all sensors and plugs. I even did this too all relays on driver side, and on passenger side by the esc module. i also dropped the column again and checked my ignition switch installation and removed plugs to have a quick visual inspection. I removed and re- installed the crank and cam sensor reset timing after cleaning. One thing i did notice was the reluctor ring which slides thru the crank sensor was a bit dirty on one side. I checked every single pin on the ECM for verified voltage i also re-checked every single pin on ICM, All was good. I removed and inspected every single injector plug interesting enought #6 plug was kind of moist inside?? i cleaned all injector plugs and hit them with air as well.. Once i had finished putting this all back together i turned the key and she fired right up.
I hate to fix things like this without understanding the root cause of it but i can tell you one thing the cleaning of every sensor and plug really i think helped me out. Maybe she had a few little issues remember the car has been sitting for a few years non running. Well at the end i ran thru 2 cans of CRC contact cleaner. Since i was already their i re-tapped everything real nice as well. Then the final touch of the compressed air really helped with making sure all was clean.
Thank you guys for you help, i will make it a habit to clean the engine harness and contacts when buying a parked car that hasnt run in a while.
Opinions on what might have fixed this? Maybe the dirty reluctor ring it had a little spot of corrosion i sanded it down and cleaned it, maybe?
#6 injector plug was wet / humid?
Cruise control had a corroded pin on the bulkhead?
I'm glad i got her running now i need to re-pack the oil pump with vaseline and i will clean her up and post some pics,
go enjoy the car!Probably had intermittent or minimal contact on an important circuit. I've had cranks but doesn't start and all voltages look good and and no apparent ground issues when probing then removed the bulkhead at the module slightly bent every pin then plug it back in and start right up every time after. I find this working on a lot of newer cars also. Seems people are driving their cars a lot longer and the contacts see getting weak.
LOL still having issues get this, my cam sensor keeps getting loose car has only ran for 30 sec and then it shut off..then i notice the cam sensor is completely loose? Ive tighten the bolt as hard as possible and it still comes loose now i have again a no spark condition after doing the timing about 12 times not exaggerating.
Pull the cam sensor and inspect it as well as check the bolt hole depth. Maybe something in the thread preventing any clamping. I don't see how the body can get loose with the bolt clamping it to the cover. There shouldn't be much drag on the body running. It is bronze bushed.
I tell you this is one funky car.. lol.. i actually just got back home because i broke my light and i needed to stop by home depot. Remember i just said i had done the timing over 12 times, and still no spark well now i get back turn the key and it has spark lol turned the car on stayed on for about 15 minutes cam sensor loose again?! w,e atleast its consistently turning on..
Funniest shit ever, i hit the brake to put it on drive to give it some load and seat the rings at 5/10 #'s , LOL the damn brake pedal goes all the way down and one of the brake lines has a hole and squirted brake fluid all on the driver side header LMAO man i killed every mosquito in a 3 mile radius SMOKE show i thought i caught the car on fire or something wow, LOL!! Love this car! These are the keepers tough love.
Funniest shit ever, i hit the brake to put it on drive to give it some load and seat the rings at 5/10 #'s , LOL the damn brake pedal goes all the way down and one of the brake lines has a hole and squirted brake fluid all on the driver side header LMAO man i killed every mosquito in a 3 mile radius SMOKE show i thought i caught the car on fire or something wow, LOL!! Love this car! These are the keepers tough love.
Hang in there you will get it fixed and then you will be able to enjoy it for many trouble free years.
Reminds me of the 86 T-Type i bought down in Fla. back in 96. Every time for the first 6 times i took the car out for a drive i had to get hauled back to the house on a flatbed truck. Shit pissed me off, i thought someone had gotten killed in the car and it was possessed. I kept working on it and fixed every single problem and was able to drive it problem free for 5 years after that until it got stolen.
Problems with these cars are like eating an elephant you can 1 bite at a time.
Reminds me of the 86 T-Type i bought down in Fla. back in 96. Every time for the first 6 times i took the car out for a drive i had to get hauled back to the house on a flatbed truck. Shit pissed me off, i thought someone had gotten killed in the car and it was possessed. I kept working on it and fixed every single problem and was able to drive it problem free for 5 years after that until it got stolen.
Problems with these cars are like eating an elephant you can 1 bite at a time.
well she turns on for a few minutes but right when she gets warm i hear a slight miss like weak spark, and then she cuts off and wornt turn back on till shes cold again...... All parameters on SM are perfect any ideas?
Something causes her to turn off.. like out of nowhere feels like spark gets weaker then just shuts off.
Something causes her to turn off.. like out of nowhere feels like spark gets weaker then just shuts off.
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Its probably the cam sensor loosening up. I hate to say this but its likely you have a stripped bolt hole for the cam sensor holddown. You could tap it one size bigger or use a thread repair kit.
i took care of the cam sensor getting loose, actually put some teflon on the bolt and it has stayed down. From what i understand the cam sensor can be disconnected while the car is running and she will continue to run the cam sensor is only needed on initial start to tell the ECM where #6 is.
