No injector pulse but car starts with starter fluid

dagwud

86 vader
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
I just put in a new ignition module o2 sensor oil press switch new serp belt spark plugs and wires car has spark and fuel press injectors are good just not getting a pulse. I do have the capers cam sensor cap.
Sound familiar to anyone?
 
I recently gave some thought as to why some don't have any issues and others do. Before I share my suspicion, can you post a pic of the cap on the car?

Are you also running a GM ignition module?
 
Where did this ignition module come from? Had a similar issue when I tried getting my car back up recently, I ended up finding a known good pack and module and fixed my issues. Can’t afford TR6 yet
 
Make sure you have IGN power on the pink/blk wire with KEY ON in the injector harness.

When cranking and low rpms all the injectors should fire pulsed do they?

You using a Noid light to test?
 
No injector pulse check the crank sensor make sure its pluged in check wires may be during all the work you just did may have pulled a wire or plug .
 
*****How long have you had this problem? If the car has been sitting for some time, the injectors may be locked up. Testing with a noid light will show they are getting juice but that doesn't mean they are putting out fuel. Pull a plug out and see if it's wet with fuel and not just starting fluid. Also, try a new cam sensor cap. I've had problems with the Casper's caps in the past.

It goes without saying to use the no start flow chart if all else fails.
 
I just put in a new ignition module o2 sensor oil press switch new serp belt spark plugs and wires car has spark and fuel press injectors are good just not getting a pulse. I do have the capers cam sensor cap.
Sound familiar to anyone?
The cap with led? If so replace it and see if that works. Any codes?
 
The Caspers LED cap is designed to work correctly assuming that your cam drive is within OEM spec and you are using a Delco ignition module or approved equivalent.

The LED cap will not work properly if the internal thrust plate on your cam sensor drive is badly worn. If there is too much end-play, the interrupter window could fall out of the sense range. Always be sure your sensor drive is within factory spec, and send it out for rebuilding if you're not sure. As a rule, if the mileage on the car is above 50,000, it's probably worn and out of spec.

Also, if the module is an aftermarket style, it could present issues with both the cam and the crank sensor. Some aftermarket modules don't supply the GM-spec voltages to the sensors which affect the operation of the Hall-Effect properties, and can also affect the proper operation of the LED on the cap.
 
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