Tool tray for atop Radiator support.

[salvageV6]

Trunk light could be ON, glove box light could be ON, underhood light could be ON, doors open or contact shorted making the interior lights ON, make sure you take the underhood bulb out when you are testing at the battery etc.

 

[No disintegrations]

Also I think if the clock is on at all times there is a fix for it somewhere on this site.

In this post I was thinking of a stock radio where the clock is too bright at all times.
I see the op has aftermarket radio, but anyone remember this clock issue?

 

[RED LS1]

Time for an update. Let me clear a few things up. I thought I fixed the problem a few times and such but I have not.

The car was original when I got it. I did not mess with much wiring with the exception of a boost gauge, Alky kit, and fuel pump hot wire. Radio is all stock but was a rebuilt unit with an AUX cable put in. None of this stuff has been an issue before.

I have been going nuts about the test light lighting up while the CLK/CIG fuse was in. I thought for sure that meant it had something going on there. If that circuit is hot all the time and lights on anyone's car than I have wasted a lot of time.

I may have been confusing by saying short. I assumed a short because the light was lit at the negative terminal thinking it wasn't suppose to be and figured short does that. But I think we're talking about a drain here. It has not popped a fuse 1 time.

I have to go back to the drawing board and basics. And I think that means finding the Draw through amp and a multi meter. I have one I just don't really know what I'm looking for with it.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Time for an update. Let me clear a few things up. I thought I fixed the problem a few times and such but I have not.

The car was original when I got it. I did not mess with much wiring with the exception of a boost gauge, Alky kit, and fuel pump hot wire. Radio is all stock but was a rebuilt unit with an AUX cable put in. None of this stuff has been an issue before.

I have been going nuts about the test light lighting up while the CLK/CIG fuse was in. I thought for sure that meant it had something going on there. If that circuit is hot all the time and lights on anyone's car than I have wasted a lot of time. Correct.

I may have been confusing by saying short. I assumed a short because the light was lit at the negative terminal thinking it wasn't suppose to be and figured short does that. But I think we're talking about a drain here. It has not popped a fuse 1 time. Correct.

I have to go back to the drawing board and basics. And I think that means finding the Draw through amp and a multi meter. I have one I just don't really know what I'm looking for with it.
Be real careful w/ checking amp draw with the multimeter. It should be fused, but....
A test amp meter can be hooked between the cable, and the batt terminal. Depending on the time it takes to kill a fresh batt will be an indicator.. 2 days may not be a high load, that can't be checked w/ your VOM. AIRC, My Fluke meter is fused with 10A.
Just remember, working connections on a hot batt, can be dangerous. We always disconnect the ground side, before any device creating a load is hooked/unhooked. One spark, and the gas from the batt can mean a bad day.