Newer blazer rear disc brakes

highpsi305

New Member
will these works and bolt up to our rear ends without modification to any parts? go they need the 1/4" spacer everyone has spoken about?

and will the blazer rotors fit in a 15" wheel like a weld or centerline?

do the backing plate barackets have to be off a 2x4 blazer or a 4x4 blazer?


any help with this would be great.

im off to the junkyard tomorrow if so, also im not worried about the e-brake cable just fitment.
 

1Badelky

Member
they need to be 2wd. and yes, the axle housing end has to me modified just like you would for the LS1 brakes. its the same bolt pattern.

I'm not 100% sure about the spacer thickness, but i know you'll need one around 1/8" to 1/4"
 

Dino1

New Member
I have a pair of the spacers that you need to do the swap, they are brand new never used that I will let go for 45.00 shipped to you. I bought them for my LS1 brake mod but ended up cutting the rear to make them work without the spacer. If you do not want to cut the bearing flang on your rear you definatly need this spacer.
 
how does the spacer keep you from having to cut the rear housing flange? Just putting a Blazer rear rotor on my 7.5" housing (same as an 8.5") caused the rotor to pretty much hit the flange. The blazer rotors sit really deep.

Does anybody have the actual Blazer brakes on the rear of a G-body with pictures of them installed? They sit deeper than the LS1 conversion, and the calipers are going to be extremely close to a stock framerail. I measured it out, and it was too close for comfort to start cutting and not have an option to back out of it to try it.

I should add, I do know of somebody with them on the back of a Cutlass, but the car is not lowered at all. At stock ride height and no plans to lower the car, you'll be fine. Another person on realoldspower has them on his as well with an A-body rear end, which is 1.5" wider on each side, so they clear the frame rails.
 

Dino1

New Member
Their is a machined recessed area on the axle flang that will not let the backing plate sit flush, unless you cut the top of the flang off and remove the recessed lip. The adaptors space out the backing plate just enough to clear the lip, allowing the backing plate to fit flush. I will try to get pics of what I'm talking about today, I am working on my rear brake conversion now.
 
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