Newbie 10.0-10.5 Build

[Amab145]

Hey guys, name is TJ, new to the forum as well as these amazing cars! I was looking for an introduction thread but didn’t find one. I have a lot of experience in the small block chevy world, but am completely new to these turbo Buick’s. I’ve been reading non-stop for months on this forum and online in general to learn all I can but I need help and clarification I have an 84’ that the previous owner swapped the drive train of an 86’-87’ into. Very solid car cosmetically and structurally, also it’s a great cruiser. Engine and everything runs strong, no mechanical issues that I know if (doesn’t use oil, runs great) So here is my goal:

I want to build this car to a 10.0-10.5 car. Not looking for 8’s or 9’s. I also want to maintain the drivability of the car on the street as it is truly a pleasure to cruise around in. It will probably spend probably 90-95% of its time on the street, the other 10% at the track, so I don’t want to build an all out drag car and ruin the street-ability of it. I often take it on cruises 3-4hrs away. So here is the direction I am leaning. My factory 3.8 block, forged crank (should I stroke it?), forged rods and pistons. 218/218 cam, port my stock heads (will they get me there or do I need a set of Champions?) Obviously injectors (has 60lbs in it now), turbo uprade and of course tranny/converter work as well as an Eaton and Mosier axles.

What else do I need to do? What should I avoid? I really apologize for all the questions. I’ll take any help I can get here. Like I said earlier, I’ve built some pretty wicked smallblocks before, and also some diesels making big power, but I know these aren’t anything like those and I’m completely lost here!

Again, streetability is extremely important to me, and I’m willing to sacrifice some speed if that’s what I need to do. If it means I’m going to have an 11.0 sec. car rather than a 10.0, I’m ok with that if I have to settle. Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks so much for all the help in advance!

 

[we4Mateo]

Follow a 9 sec recipe and tune it down for 10.0 to 10.50s and streetability shouldn't be too bad and it'll live. Just start searching people's sigs and see what it takes to run the number. Everything needs to be right: trans, suspension, electrical, fuel, boost control, etc.

 

[Rose]

You've got it pretty much figured out. Just make sure you get the machine work done by someone who knows these cars. My car runs what you want and i drive it on the street 90% of the time so just look in the sig.

 

[Amab145]

Do you think these numbers are achievable with porting my stock iron heads? A guy I spoke to about doing the build really seemed to want to go the route of aluminum heads. I'm not trying to be cheap, but if I can get pretty close to what i want time and speed wise without shelling out the extra $ to go to an aluminum head and do it by porting my iron heads, I'd like to go that route. Any truth to the notion of aluminum heads not being the best for street use on these cars? Thanks for all the help!

 

[we4Mateo]

It's opinion but I know irons have taken guys way further than you're wanting to go.

 

[charlief1]

I moved this to the general section so you can get some more info. It does seem like you've got some sort of clue here and the fact that you picked a goal is better than most newbys. The easiest way to get to your goals is give us some idea of what's in the car now as far as parts. What you will need is a rebuild on the tranny and to build the engine for 10 second power. Engine and tranny ect are going to run you around $10K or more. You might be able to do it for less if you shop around and do a bunch of work yourself but this isn't a cheap goal.

Please understand that I'm not picking on you in any way but building one of these cars up wasn't cheap when they came out and now it's rediculas to say the least.

 

[we4Mateo]

I moved this to the general section so you can get some more info. It does seem like you've got some sort of clue here and the fact that you picked a goal is better than most newbys. The easiest way to get to your goals is give us some idea of what's in the car now as far as parts. What you will need is a rebuild on the tranny and to build the engine for 10 second power. Engine and tranny ect are going to run you around $10K or more. You might be able to do it for less if you shop around and do a bunch of work yourself but this isn't a cheap goal.

Please understand that I'm not picking on you in any way but building one of these cars up wasn't cheap when they came out and now it's rediculas to say the least.

Good stuff! I don't think the builds with these cars are all that bad compared to what guys end up putting in ls swaps when stock internals don't cut it. Relative to the cost of the car the builds are up there with TR's and that's where I think some see it as crazy. Dumping $50k into a new GTR is nothing b/c the damn car costs so much! Many here have triple or more in their builds than what the car is worth even stock w/ low miles so I think it just appears to be expensive relatively speaking. Just a thought though. I don't think $10k for a low 10 sec drivetrain is unreasonable. I wish had an extra $10k to finish my motor but everyone needs a goal right? JMHO.

 

[REAPER231]

Do you think these numbers are achievable with porting my stock iron heads? A guy I spoke to about doing the build really seemed to want to go the route of aluminum heads. I'm not trying to be cheap, but if I can get pretty close to what i want time and speed wise without shelling out the extra $ to go to an aluminum head and do it by porting my iron heads, I'd like to go that route. Any truth to the notion of aluminum heads not being the best for street use on these cars? Thanks for all the help!

Sent u a pm . Give me a call

 

[TurboTnZ06]

If you are going to pay someone else to setup the heads, may as well get new GN1's and sell the 8445's. If you are buying a new forged crank, may as well get a stroker. Plan on 15-20K budget to do it right. It's all the little things that add up and 30K can go by easily if all goes well. For example, my cam gear was off a hair, so there's another grand to remachine and stick a new gear on the cam to line up right with the cam sensor gear on the cover.

 

[Red C5]

Totally achievable for deep 10s. My car was perfectly streetable and reliable. I could put 87 octane in it and all I would do is change the boost setting on the controller. Should be able to do it with your heads, good turbo and other mods you mentioned. I would also go with a FAST and tuning is obviously key. Hopefully Cal or Bison see this and can chime in, tons of knowledgeable guys here.

 

[Amab145]

Guys, thanks for all the info so far. It's obvious I have a lot to learn about these cars so all help is appreciated. As far as what is done to the car now, I know it has 60# injectors in it and some sort of aftermarket converter. Not sure what converter or what is even in it for tuning, that's just going off of what the previous owner told me when I bought the car. Internally, I believe the engine to be completely stock, as well as stock tranny.


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[SS/GN]

Its easy but I haven't figured it out yet

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/melissas-secret-9-94-138-17-combo.230961/

 

[87GN 98GTP]

The key is a good builder and machine shop. You can go easy 10s on stock heads and block without girdle but billet caps a must. Stock rods prob be ok but different pistons. Also suspension a must