New Style Double Din

Amab145

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2013
Hey guys, just wanted to share an idea I had and decided to run with in my car. I many of us are looking for some cool audio ideas, specifically making a double din with navigation work in one of our cars. I personally was torn between having my stock radio modified, going to some sort of single DIN flip out, or a double DIN. After going over the options and what I would have to do to make the double din work, I decided to roll with it but i didn't go the route of a traditional double DIN. Instead I took it one step further and rather than going with a double DIN unit, i went and stuffed an IPad mini in the dash along with a full component audio setup! Here are a few pictures of the finished product. I will gladly share everything I did if anyone is interested or would like to do one for themselves.
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Car does not have heat/AC. Box has been removed from engine bay.

As far as what I used, I used a mount from Fifield Fab http://www.fifieldfabrications.com Once I got the mount, I had to trim out some of the factory steel supports that the factory unit mounts to, but didn't cut into any of the steel bracing around the parameter of the factory radio/heater control mounts, mainly just the bar that runs across the middle.

I then used the Sony MEX0GS610BT radio to mount on the back side of the Fifield mount. This radio has its own app for Apple/Android that you'll download onto the iPad later which lets you control the entire system from the iPad. The iPad/radio mount has a slot notched in the side of it for the charger to be permanently mounted in, so when the iPad is in the dash, it is charging, but it is also connected via the charger usb cable to the rear of the Sony Radio.

As far as speakers, I used a set of Boston Acoustic components up front and in the rear, as well as a pair of Infinity 10" subs. I powered the components with an Eclipse 4-channel amp and the subs with an Infinity 2-channel. I ended up mounting the front components in the doors by cutting the door and door panel and installing the Concert Sound retrofit kit that g-body parts offers, so it looks completely stock and I mounted the front tweeters up in the stock dash location.
 
It charges when it is in the car. Inside the housing that holds the iPad, there is the USB cord attached to the iPad and then to the back of the cd player, so when the key is on, It is charging. If you take a look at the top picture, on the left side in the middle, you will see the iPad plug sticking out. I have it permanently fixed in that position so when I slide the iPad in and out, the plug doesn't move.
 
If you really just wanted to, you could still have your heat and A/C with that setup. You'd have to do away with the stock setup and go with the kit that mounts behind the glovebox and your firewall would still be pretty much flat.
 
Just curious, I'm finally getting my 87 back and I have a double din that I wanted to put in. Double dins won't work? Too big? If they won't, what's the reason? If they won't, would a motorized screen work? Thx
 
Just curious, I'm finally getting my 87 back and I have a double din that I wanted to put in. Double dins won't work? Too big? If they won't, what's the reason? If they won't, would a motorized screen work? Thx

It's too big. The climate control unit is in the way. You can make a flip out radio work in a Grand National, but there will be the constant issue of it having to clear the shifter.

Personally I wouldn't bother. If I were to go that route, I'd prefer a plain regal since they don't have the center console shifter and I can hack on it guilt free.
 
NICE!!! Did you just move the heater controls and cut into the faceplate? Or is there alot more involved then just that?
 
Move heater controls up grind on bottom of a/c controls because the clear part on the a/c control has tabs on it you have to remove. Jb weld the bottom of clear part of the a/c controls and then you will have enough room. That's it.
 
Move heater controls up grind on bottom of a/c controls because the clear part on the a/c control has tabs on it you have to remove. Jb weld the bottom of clear part of the a/c controls and then you will have enough room. That's it.
Why jb weld once you grind the lower tabs off? Are you talking about the tabs the screws go through holding it in place, or the very bottom of the ac controls? No mods to the faceplate at all? Thx
 
Once you grind the tabs off the clear lens moves around because it has no tabs to hold it.

Bottom of faceplate had to be cut
 
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