New poster/TTA help??

TTA#1001

New Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Hello. I was pointed in your direction a few days ago, and have to say that I'm glad I found the site. :)

I was wondering if anyone could help a newbie here? lol

I have TTA, # 1001. 58K miles all stock.

I'm having some problems with the car. When the car is cold it runs fine, but after it gets warmed up, it idles down and goes dead.

This happens while driving down the road, and while idling in the driveway, it also misses in the upper rpm's

I've replaced the plugwires, plugs, coilpack, EGR, and it still acts up. I haven't bought any scan tools or anything to check things out fully, so what I've really been doing is buying parts here, and there trying to fix it, to no avail.

Oh yeah, I had someone put a scan tool on it ( autozone) and it indicated the EGR was the problem, but after replacing it, this didn't fix it.

I was told it might be the baro sensor or the computer that's causing it to act this way??

I was just wondering what you guys take on it was? I was told by one person to take it to a Buick dealership, and maybe they could fix it, or atleast try some things that wouldn't cost me. ( Like) if I buy a computer, and this isn't the problem I can''t return it.

My dad knows someone, who knows "someone" who was around when the grand national's came out and whose worked on them in the past. The mechanic is still working at a Buick store I believe.

I know it would cost some money to take it to a dealership, but I really don't know anyone who knows anything ( or whom I would trust) about these cars who I could take it to locally.

I live outside of Memphis, TN. Maybe one of you Buick/TTA guys might recommend someone to take the car to? Or would you suggest just taking it to a dealership.

PS. I've kind of considered selling the car. I don't know what it's worth, but I really don't have the time to devote to it. I hate to see the car go to waste in the garage.

Thanks in advance for your help and responses.
 
http://www.gnttype.org/ This site may help you now or down the road.Get yourself some sort of scan tool.Your TPS and idle maybe off somewhat,IAC may need cleaned and or adjusted.These three systems interact with each other and changing one usually requires tweaking another.Learn to do it yourself cause youll need to do it later on if you upgrade your car.watch these boards or ask for someone selling a scanmaster.Very easy to install,gives you all the vitals needed to be able to tune your car. These sell new for alittle over 200 bucks. good luck.
 
sorry I can't give ya any help BUT stop throwin parts at it .. Has to be someone local to you somewhere ... Is "check eng " light coming on ?? :confused:
 
There you go Dan, number 3 just waiting for you! :biggrin:
 
this almost sounds like a fuel pump going out to me. hook up a fuel pressure gauge, start the car and watch the psi as the car acts up.

good luck, like grumpy said, don't keep throwing parts at it until the problem is nailed down.
 
Have you tryed the fuel filter? I had a POS Ford and it did the same thing and it was the fuel filter!
 
Buy a scanmaster and learn how to use it. Without data.. your hosed. Pay someone 75 bucks an hour to learn on your car changing un-needed parts.. or learn this in a few hours.

Sorry, cant fix a car without having data from the ecm.

And did anyone mention stop changing parts until issue is resolved :rolleyes:

Could be a bad O2 sensor when it warms up and goes into closed loop creating the issue. AC Delco AFS20
 
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I have stopped throwing parts at it. That's why I haven't gone any futher.

Grumpy, yes the light will come on ( when warm) and then go off. I was told it was the EGR code it was giving off, but I guess it's more than that.

phillyturbosix, yes, I changed the fuel filter to no avail. I haven't checked the fuel pump.

I guess I'll have to ( like some of you have suggested) buy a scanmaster to see what's really going on.

Does anyone know anybody in the Memphis, TN area that are familar with these cars?

Thanks for your help. :)
 
If the check engine light is on, there should be a trouble code stored. Do you know what trouble code was registered by the Autozone guy? It could be EGR related but not the actual valve. Ground the diagnostic terminal on the ALDL and the trouble code(s) should be displayed by the light blinking. This could help you solve the problem and all you need is a paper clip. But you still should get a scanmaster if you are going to keep the car.
 
bkoons said:
If the check engine light is on, there should be a trouble code stored. Do you know what trouble code was registered by the Autozone guy? It could be EGR related but not the actual valve. Ground the diagnostic terminal on the ALDL and the trouble code(s) should be displayed by the light blinking. This could help you solve the problem and all you need is a paper clip. But you still should get a scanmaster if you are going to keep the car.

I want to say the code was 32. I replaced the EGR valve and EGR Solenoid at the time. I don't know if I'm going to keep the car or not. I guess if it's running it will bring a higher price, but how much higher?

INTERCOOLED, I'll keep you in mind because I may sell it. I have no idea what it's worth.
 
Not much anymore. I'll give you $8k for it as it sits. That would be a good start for a good car that runs nice, not like those POS TTAs. Hey, I sound like Grumpy ;)
 
hmmm TTA needing work ... should be an easy sell for all the vulcher's out there :eek: and I am NOT one of them !!! wow can't believe I said that !! guess the "don't buy anymore cars treatment is working !! :eek:
 
You must be seeing a shrink or a hypnosist :D
 
Pronto said:
Not much anymore. I'll give you $8k for it as it sits. That would be a good start for a good car that runs nice, not like those POS TTAs. Hey, I sound like Grumpy ;)


I sent you a PM, not sure if it went through? My computer locked up at the time. Anyway, I would consider selling the car for that price.
 
TTA#1001 said:
I sent you a PM, not sure if it went through? My computer locked up at the time. Anyway, I would consider selling the car for that price.


we NEED another TTA up here :eek: :p
 
My problem turned out to be a bad Mass air sensor. I didn't even think about that being the problem.

So, I replaced that and the PCV valve. Car runs normal now. :) Fingers crossed. lol

Now, I need to replace a motor mount. I've looked around and see that only the right side is available. :confused: I've heard that you can make the right side fit the left. Is that correct?

Does anyone know ( or can anyone) point me in the direction on how to replace or repair the left motor mount?

Thanks guys.
 
TTA#1001 said:
My problem turned out to be a bad Mass air sensor. I didn't even think about that being the problem.

So, I replaced that and the PCV valve. Car runs normal now. :) Fingers crossed. lol

Now, I need to replace a motor mount. I've looked around and see that only the right side is available. :confused: I've heard that you can make the right side fit the left. Is that correct?

Does anyone know ( or can anyone) point me in the direction on how to replace or repair the left motor mount?

Thanks guys.

Yeah I think there is just a little tab that needs to be cut off. You can get both side though through Johns Performance. I think he's the only one who sells TTA poly mounts http://secure.johnsperformance.com/...6944.10481*xq7Ph&next=40&product=Engine-Parts Good luck changing them though, I've heard it's pretty tough.
 
72firebird said:
Yeah I think there is just a little tab that needs to be cut off. You can get both side though through Johns Performance. I think he's the only one who sells TTA poly mounts http://secure.johnsperformance.com/...6944.10481*xq7Ph&next=40&product=Engine-Parts Good luck changing them though, I've heard it's pretty tough.

Thanks for the link. I'm not sure I want to spend 300.00 plus for motor mounts. :eek:

I found a left and a right motor mount for the GN's at Advanced auto. Would the left side motor mount for the GN work for the TTA?

Thanks.
 
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