New Member In Florida.... Look For Any Help On What I Have.

Not sure if it's the bags or the lines but sadly my airbags won't hold air as they slowly leak down... gonna have to do some inspecting next weekend to see where the issue is. The bags look like they are in great shape so I'm hoping it's the lines.

AKM
 
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the factory radiator has ports for oil/transmission fluid cooling purposes, so that's why you see the lines going from just before the filter to the radiator. the auxiliary cooler is probably not in the best place it could be, I used to have mine right under neath the license plate laying close to horizontal to the ground in between the front air dams. just something to think about if you ever wanted to move it. when I got a bigger front mount intercooler I upgraded my trans cooler and moved it to the rear of the car.

as far as the air bags in the rear springs, you are able to replace just the lines. if you find its the bags and wanted to replace them, I've got a couple new ones in my garage that I could sell you for less than they cost me. I mounted them but changed my rear spring set up completely and couldn't use them any more.

for stability at high speeds, the shocks and springs would be my first guess. or control arm bushings, as mentioned. after that would be control arms, for the rears I would only go with one company and that's baseline suspensions. their set up changes the angles of the control arms in a more favorable manner that aids in getting traction off the line. do a search here and read up on their site as well, lots of good info to read up on so you can truly understand how it all works together. for the front control arms, lots of people have opinions about one company's product versus another but at the end of the day just make sure do your research here.


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Welcome to the site.
I agree. Whoever owned that car before you did their homework. Lots of well thought out parts. With a good tire, tune and some track time, I would expect to see that car in the elevens. What are you putting in the alky tank? VP M1 I hope. ;)
Take your time sneaking up on that boost. Lots to learn. You are making lots of HP with a little engine. It will do it as long as you have things safe.
You are riding on the edge with not much of a cushion. Knowledge is the key to these things. Here's some evening reading to ponder. https://www.turbobuick.com/threads/info-for-new-turbo-regal-owners.380856/

Can't wait to hear more details on this hot rod.
Once again, Welcome to the site. Let us know if you have any questions.:)

Happy spooling.
Mike Barnard
 
Thanks for the advice!!!! Here is what came with the car.

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I did notice the " Full" and "Fill" line on the Alky tank was actually pretty low in the tank. Does everyone just fill to the full line or actually fill the tank up?
 
I did notice the " Full" and "Fill" line on the Alky tank was actually pretty low in the tank. Does everyone just fill to the full line or actually fill the tank up?

if I know I'm going to be making a lot of hits and know I won't be able to fill up if I needed to, I fill it higher than the full line. but if I were at the track and had a jug of it, as in a 5 gal tank, I would just keep it at that full line and check it after each pass. it won't need a refill after one WOT blast for 10-12 seconds.


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I fill my alky tank most of the way to the top. Maybe an inch down from the bottom of the cap. It's never been a problem.
 
Been awhile since I posted.......did a slight mod on the KB intake to get more air. The enclosed canister to me seemed restricted when compared to CAIs of today. I left the Ram Air tube hooked up but open up some breathing from the top of the intake as well.

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With my older 5.7 TT chip, is this what is considered adjustable? My main question is since I don’t drive often I have a battery disconnect on my car to keep the battery from draining but I read where possibly this could cause issues with the ECU being not powered for so long and a loss of settings. Not sure if my setup would be effected by doing this so far I haven’t seen any issues but figured I’d ask.

Thanks
 
Took car out tonight and when I did a WOT run it backfired a few times and had a weird burnt smell....had a lot of retardation on the Scanmaster. It the started running really rough and surging.

When I got home I popped the hood and heard a vacuum leak sound. Did a search and found this

CZPmeS0.jpg


I put it back on and drove it again and at WOT it did the same surging and backfire and when I got home it was back off again. I swear I got a ticking / knocking sound going on now. Hope I did really toast something.

Here is a further off picture with the hose back on showing it’s location
1gxH2h5.jpg


1. That’s a PCV valve correct? What would cause the hose to blow off?
2. And how does the hose usually securely connect to it?
3. Am I screwed as it ain’t sounding running too damn happy?
4. Who is a GN guru in the North Florida / South Georgia area that is knowledgeable on our cars and these 3.8 Turbo engines.
5. I leave it with the battery disconnect for periods of time, then connect it when I plan on driving it. Is that an issue for the ECU/chip to be not powered for a long period of time?

Thanks Mac
 
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Thats the PCV Valve, with some kind of a valve added to it or something


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yeah PCV valve, it has positive pressure on the closed valve, and opens to let vacuum draw in. I had to put a hose clamp on my line right there to keep from blowing it off as well. they where made for 15 psi boost, you start putting 20 25 pis boost and it will happen. good Idea to zip tie all the vacuum lines if you haven't already.
 
also, the TT chips have a learning curve to them, it takes a day or two to "learn" . unhooking power to it every time basically puts it in learn mode every time you take it out, I would leave power to the ecm if you could. go to the turbotweak website forum and get an Instruction sheet for the chip, details the fuel setup and basic operation of the chip, I am sure Eric would send you one if needed also.
 
I assume it blowing off was my bad running culprit . Don’t think I really hurt anything do ya?

I assume I can get the valve from local store but I wonder what in the heck is added to it and why?

Mac
 
Do you think the valve is bad or did the hose finally give way? May be able to just hose clamp the hose back on the existing valve to keep it secure I’m guessing as long as I didn’t FUBAR anything engine wise with all the backfiring.
 
RJC makes an aftermarketone , check out the following
http://rjcracing.com/product/rjc-pcv

and yes, if you want to go stock, parts stores should carry them, i know some vendors do also

https://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/43791/AFTERMARKET+PCV+VALVE+#7276.html

that one you have i have never seen before. I blew mine off a few times and as long as i didn't get back on it while it was stuttering, and it will stutter with a vacuum line off, it wen't back together alright. keep an eye on your KR for any readings above zero, knock is your enemy on these cars. definitely worth hooking up with someone with some insight on these cars to make sure your don't do any damage, keeping your foot out of it till you know it's healthy is a good idea.
 
Do you think the valve is bad or did the hose finally give way? May be able to just hose clamp the hose back on the existing valve to keep it secure I’m guessing as long as I didn’t FUBAR anything engine wise with all the backfiring.


It may have been zip tied on and the zip tie flew off when it flew off. definitely a small hose clap should do the trick.
 
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