Need Help Troubleshooting Power Loss in 2nd Gear+

Terbro

Has Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
See sig for set up. I *just* installed 80# injectors and TT chip hoping that was my problem; too small injectors...negative. And the problem is - I've got awesome power in 1st gear at 20 psi boost, but around the top of 2nd gear and by the time it's in 3rd, it's falling flat on the power, only building to about 15-17# boost, and then often completely dying. It still feels it's not getting enough fuel.

I don't have a power logger, but now that I've put in the 80#ers, I'd think I could at least troubleshoot this problem w/o one (on a budget). I've jacked up with fuel pressure to 54 psi with line off, and that's not helping. It was 41 when I first got the FP gauge, then read some are setting to 50 and Nick Micale recommended 50 as well, so I set it there, then up to 54.

The last Scanmaster O2 reading (if I don't stay in it until it fully dies), was 828 (after upping the fuel at the chip 10.2%). I had another runs in the high 700's prior to adding fuel on the chip. So I'm confused.

The motor was built by Nick Micale, and I think the new fuel filter he put in is a stock style. Fuel lines are all stock to my knowledge. Volts on the Scanmaster are reading typically 13.6-13.9 at the start of the run, and may drop to low 13's or high 12's by the time it's falling flat. But the pump is hot wired, so the SM isn't picking up the volts going to the pump, right? Is it safe to assume the fuel pump is getting ample voltage?

So...I've got a freshly built motor with tons o' power and potentially lots more with more boost...but can't think about that until I resolve this problem. If I go through the gears at 75% throttle, and keep it at 15 psi, it's fine through 3rd gear, and continues to pull.
 
I would try running it with a diagnostic fuel pressure guage run up the cowl under the wiper blade so you can see pressure at wot before going any further , if its leaning out under boost your risking hurting it.

Where your talking 02 millivolts I am assuming you don't have a wideband ? if you don't then go old school and immediately shut down after romping it and read the plugs but a decent wideband is not that expensive compared to what it will cost to fix it if you burn a piston.
 
I would try running it with a diagnostic fuel pressure guage run up the cowl under the wiper blade so you can see pressure at wot before going any further , if its leaning out under boost your risking hurting it.
Agreed , you need to see if FP is rising 1 for 1 before going any further .
Is it safe to assume the fuel pump is getting ample voltage?
It may be getting ample voltage , but if the grounds were not upgraded it will not run up to it's full potential . You need to have the complete circuit "hot wired " including grounds , 10 ga ground wire from battery to upgraded intermediate harness out back .
 
I would try running it with a diagnostic fuel pressure guage run up the cowl under the wiper blade so you can see pressure at wot before going any further , if its leaning out under boost your risking hurting it.

Where your talking 02 millivolts I am assuming you don't have a wideband ? if you don't then go old school and immediately shut down after romping it and read the plugs but a decent wideband is not that expensive compared to what it will cost to fix it if you burn a piston.

My 3rd TR came with a hood mounted mechanical FP gauge. Besides its functionality, it looked cool (see pic). Are you talking about something like that? If you have a source of something like that, please let me know...would like to get something similar.

Sorry...not familiar with the term "wideband". But of course the last thing I want to do is hurt the motor. What I have decided to do is shut down at first sign of low O2 readings or significant cutting out/falling flat of the motor. So far, the only time I saw significantly low O2 readings was with total loss of power (when boost dropped to zero, and it was like the key was shut off; no fuel). That's what happens if I stay on it after it's started it's power loss problem. So I don't need to. Anyway, what's a wideband?
 

Attachments

  • MAJORHP.jpg
    MAJORHP.jpg
    706.5 KB · Views: 104
My 3rd TR came with a hood mounted mechanical FP gauge. Besides its functionality, it looked cool (see pic). Are you talking about something like that? If you have a source of something like that, please let me know...would like to get something similar.
TR Custom Parts has what you want , http://www.buickgn.com/fuelpressuregaugekit.htm . What Murphinator was referring to was a wideband O2 sensor as apposed to a (stock) narrow band O2 sensor .
 
TR Custom Parts has what you want , http://www.buickgn.com/fuelpressuregaugekit.htm . What Murphinator was referring to was a wideband O2 sensor as apposed to a (stock) narrow band O2 sensor .

That's it (the gauge). Looks like it connects right into the Schrader valve at the end of the fuel line. A bit pricey, but...custom parts often are. Got to wait until I sell another hot tub! ;) Gotcha on the wideband O2 sensor. I think I'll start with the FP gauge...seems like that'll tell me a lot. If I'm in a run, and see that pressure go down...that'll give me a big tip as where my problem lies.
 

Well that's definitely the less expensive alternative. Odd though...I see it does say 6' ft hose, but it also says 2 1/2" gauge. That hose in the pic isn't 6', based on the size of the gauge. I did a quick measure with my fingers...based on the "2.5 inch gauge" and sectioned off the hose, and came up with about 34" hose in that photo. Oh, I just read a couple reviews...it says the pressure hose is 40" long. The "relief hose is 6' long" (the clear one?). What is that anyway? Don't care about that. Do you have one 626gn?
 
I wonder if I can feed my Hypertech 4004 FP gauge (with an 18" hose) through the front grill and tape it. Probably not a straight shot from the Schrader through the nose of the car. I'll take a look tomorrow. Maybe remove a highbeam headlight? Sigh...

I'm also going to eyeball my fuel rail front to rear to make sure there's not a collapsed section somewhere.
 
Last edited:
Now the website is confusing me! When I replied to your post with the newegg link, (after first replying to your 1st post w/the amazon link), it converts it to the amazon link! I had to manually copy it. Trippy...
 
some of the major auto parts chains do loaner tools/rent etc... sure you could line up one to use to diagnose your immediate issue
 
Well that's definitely the less expensive alternative. Odd though...I see it does say 6' ft hose, but it also says 2 1/2" gauge. That hose in the pic isn't 6', based on the size of the gauge. I did a quick measure with my fingers...based on the "2.5 inch gauge" and sectioned off the hose, and came up with about 34" hose in that photo. Oh, I just read a couple reviews...it says the pressure hose is 40" long. The "relief hose is 6' long" (the clear one?). What is that anyway? Don't care about that. Do you have one 626gn?
The hose is long enough to go from your fuel rail port to bottom of windshield. Relief hose is there to relieve pressure and direct the fuel that comes out or it can be used to drain your tank if you ever have the need. Yes, I have one.
 

Now you're confusing me! Why'd you change the link to the more expensive one?

That one explains that the pressure hose is 40", and the relief hose (for disposing of extra fuel???) if 6').[/QUOTE]


Not sure how you got directed to that link??
 
Verify fuel pressure at WOT as advised. Also does it feel like it falls on its face as soon as it shifts to second? A slipping band will feel like a sudden loss of power and may not have rpm increase like you would expect from a slipping trans. If it falls on its face when it shifts to second try letting up for half a second and reapplying power to see if the band grabs.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
If it is dropping boost check to see if you have a intake hose colapsing. Get a wideband. Going by the factory o2 readings is pointless.
 
Top