Need advice for Subs (ohms, voice coils, watts)?

[ShawnR]

I want to add a little "thump" to my Regal. I figure that 2, 10 inch subs should be able to fit nicely against the back seat. I don't need the kind of bass that rattles the license plate, but at least something you can feel.

Speakers have single or dual voice coils, I don't know what that really even means.
2 ohm or 4 ohm speakers?
RMS (what's that)
A decent amp to power it all.

In the "old days" (late 80's) 200 watts was a LOT. Now they are talking 600 - 1000 watts. I had a Pyle super pounder in the back seat, but nowdays I still want to have a back seat!

I am hoping to stick around $300 for subs & amp. Anybody have any advice or suggestions?

Something like this maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-S...r+Audio&rnid=2528832011&s=electronics&sr=1-32




Thanks,
Shawn

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Shawn,
I ran two 10” kicker comp subs and a crutchfield amp (2x100 rms) that was very loud, rattled the license plate and trunk lid. I can’t see why anyone would “NEED” more.
I couldn’t find much info on the setup in the link, so I’ll start with this.

Match speaker ohms with the amp. If you run 2 ohm speaker on a 4 ohm amp you will overheat the amp at higher volumes because the 2 ohm load is closer to a direct short (0 ohms) than 4 ohms.

If you run 4 ohm speakers on a 2 ohm amp you won’t hurt anything, it just won’t be as loud as it could be.

Subs with 2 voice coils have 2 voice coils so you can have a left and right channel in the same speaker or you can better match the sub to the amp by running the voice coils in parallel or in series or by only using 1 voice coil.

Select a sub with an rms power handling capacity just above the rms rating of the amp.

A sub with a higher sensitivity rating (the higher the better) doesn’t require as much power to sound good. Most are 86-88 and some are as high as 92.

Subs also have a rated box volume size. A sealed box will provide tighter (more accurate) bass, where as a ported box will be a little sloppy (boomy) and slightly louder.

I like kicker subs.

On to amps. The rms watts is the average listening power. Don’t go by peak power as it is bogus, trumped up hogwash. Peak power can be double or more and is a marketing gimmick.

Look for an amp with a high signal to noise ratio (over 100db if possible and a low THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) number.

On a car that you can hear the exhaust from the drivers seat you won’t notice a difference below .05% THD. A lot of amps are in the .1% range.

If you have a stock system and are tying into the rear speakers for the amp signal it’s simplest to look for an amp with speaker level inputs or use a line level converter. An amp with a built in low pass filter is a great feature and is nice for tuning your subs.

With 100 watts rms more than likely you won’t have the gain over 75% volume.

This amp is on sale and was the best one on www.crutchfield.com

90 watts rms x2 at 4 ohms or 120 watts rms at 2 ohms .1% THD signal to noise ratio 90db. although I'm not familiar with this brand. If using 4 ohm subs you’d get 90 watts. If you use 2 ohm subs you’d get 120 watts.

FWIW a dual compartment box at 1.25 cu/ft per sub will fill the whole package tray in the trunk (upper level).

I like to check specs on crutchfield, they have good info.

I hope I didn’t overload your senses.
I’m sure there are guys more familiar with the newer products.

Cheers,
George

 

[grass doctor]

crutchfield rules !!! very helpful , very very good customer service and tech , kicker great speaker at great price , I use to run two 10's on a 100w audiobahn amp and was perfect , you don't need much power if box is built correctly for style of speaker sealed or ported as long as the power is clean like gx1 said it will hit just enough for what you described you want
hell if you want the amp ill sell it to you , im an alpine guy and had mtx subs with good quality cheap door speakers that ran off the head unit power
call crutch field or go check out their website GL

 

[grass doctor]

when you get it all set up best song for sound check Micheal Jackson's billie jean or beat LOL but seriously it does sound good on a well set up system

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

I bought my stuff from crutchfield in ‘91 or ‘92 and the amp I got was a crutchfield brand amp made by Precision Power Industries (PPI), I still have it.
It’s 100 Watts x2 at 4 ohms, 102db signal to noise ratio with .02% THD. It was $300 with no extra features.

I have a matching 20 watt rms x2 for the Pyle Drivers (yeah, old school) 4x10’s in the rear deck.

I found some Pioneer 12” subs made for my 1.25 cu/ft per speaker box because well, you know, bigger is better right? They were almost as loud as the 10” kickers and not quite as tight.
I recently got some 12” kickers that are free air subs that will work with my box, no results yet.

I was surprised how well the 20 watt amp added to the sound. It was enough to vibrate the inside rear view mirror.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

This would be a good box setup. You’ll have to check the measurements to see if it will fit the way you want.

Universal Car Stereo Hatchback Sealed Dual 10" Kicker Comp C10 Sub Box 2 Ohm | eBay

Universal Car Stereo Hatchback Sealed Dual 10" Kicker Comp C10 Sub Box 2 Ohm Universal Car Stereo Hatchback Sealed Dual 10" Kicker Comp C10 Sub Box Enclosure - Final 2 Ohm. - Empty Sub Boxes. - Kick Panels.

www.ebay.com

crutchfield rules !!! very helpful , very very good customer service and tech , kicker great speaker at great price , I use to run two 10's on a 100w audiobahn amp and was perfect , you don't need much power if box is built correctly for style of speaker sealed or ported as long as the power is clean like gx1 said it will hit just enough for what you described you want
hell if you want the amp ill sell it to you , im an alpine guy and had mtx subs with good quality cheap door speakers that ran off the head unit power
call crutch field or go check out their website GL

grass doctor, do you recall the specs on your amp?

 

[grass doctor]

i do not and they are no longer made ill see if I can find them

 

[ShawnR]

when you get it all set up best song for sound check Micheal Jackson's billie jean or beat LOL but seriously it does sound good on a well set up system

It's going to have to be "Hell's Bells" from AC/DC. That one isn't really an option.

 

[Jerryl]

I know very little about stereo systems but my car was done professionally and correctly by the PO. I can drive at 40 mph, feel the bass on the floor board, with zero rattle
(Despise that!)

Standing still it can barely be heard outside with the windows up or down. No added insulation that I can find.

System was installed early 2000 and the only thing I wish it had was blue tooth. No channels left to directly connect, and not doing FM BT junk.

The sound is so clean, I am afraid to touch it. Lol. I think the bass output frequency was adjusted to the natural frequency of the car. Don't know.

Point is . . You can have good bass and zero rattle if done correctly.

 

[ShawnR]

I was planning on just mounting them directly to the back of the rear seat, but I don't see any way that I would be able to seal off that area effectively. If I build a box for that little ledge in the truck, is sealed or ported better and do you need speakers designed for one or the other?

I'll measure after work this evening and see what options are already out there.

 

[ShawnR]

I know very little about stereo systems but my car was done professionally and correctly by the PO. I can drive at 40 mph, feel the bass on the floor board, with zero rattle
(Despise that!)

Standing still it can barely be heard outside with the windows up or down. No added insulation that I can find.

System was installed early 2000 and the only thing I wish it had was blue tooth. No channels left to directly connect, and not doing FM BT junk.

The sound is so clean, I am afraid to touch it. Lol. I think the bass output frequency was adjusted to the natural frequency of the car. Don't know.

Point is . . You can have good bass and zero rattle if done correctly.

Can you show what is behind the cover?

 

[grass doctor]

It's going to have to be "Hell's Bells" from AC/DC. That one isn't really an option.

cant go wrong with acdc but you want to install subs, so you want nice hitting bass, but also want clean trebles too and need some songs that hit through all frequencies maybe one by metallica would be more up you alley

 

[Jerryl]

This is all I have.

 

[Jerryl]

I had a few guys who understand car audio comment how good and clean the sound is. It scares me to touch anything. Lol.

 

[Jerryl]

cant go wrong with acdc but you want to install subs, so you want nice hitting bass, but also want clean trebles too and need some songs that hit through all frequencies maybe one by metallica would be more up you alley

Lots of great songs to test no doubt! I like to test and adjust to my liking to but not limited to; Uptown Funk, Hysteria, Brick House, etc. Lol

 

[grass doctor]

This would be a good box setup. You’ll have to check the measurements to see if it will fit the way you want.

Universal Car Stereo Hatchback Sealed Dual 10" Kicker Comp C10 Sub Box 2 Ohm | eBay

Universal Car Stereo Hatchback Sealed Dual 10" Kicker Comp C10 Sub Box 2 Ohm Universal Car Stereo Hatchback Sealed Dual 10" Kicker Comp C10 Sub Box Enclosure - Final 2 Ohm. - Empty Sub Boxes. - Kick Panels.

www.ebay.com

grass doctor, do you recall the specs on your amp?

here they are the specs you wanted gx1 I was wrong and this is a pretty bad ass amp ill be keeping it LOL
Audiobahn A2401T

• 560W Max, Class A/B 2-Channel Car Amplifier
• RMS Power Rating:
• • 100 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms
  • 140 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 ohms
  • 280 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms Bridged
• Max Power Output: 560 watts @ 2 ohms stereo or 4 ohms bridged
• Full MOSFET Power Supply with Soft Start Class A/B Circuitry
• Preamp Outputs
• Cobalt Blue Illumination (on/off switch for your preference)
• • Circuit Board, Heat Sink, Audiobahn Name Plate, Volt-meter and End Caps illuminate
• Cobalt Blue Digital Volt-meter Display
• Clipping Blue LED Indicators under the volt-meter display
• Cooling Fan
• Chrome Flame Cooling Fan Grill Cover Included (other optional designs available and sold separately)
• Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board
• High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish
• Nickel Plated Block Terminals
• 3-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit and Overload
• High quality Bipolar Audio Stage
• On/Off Bass Boost Setting: 0 or +18dB
• Variable High-Pass Crossover: 50-750Hz
• Variable Low-Pass Crossover: 50-120Hz
• Variable Subsonic Filter: 20-50Hz
• Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB
• Frequency Response: 10Hz-40kHz
• THD: 0.02%
• Phase Control: 0 or 180°
• 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended. Contact us for information regarding a discount on a select amplifier kit when purchased together.
• Dimensions: 10-1/4" L x 12-3/4" W x 2-1/4" H

 

[Jerryl]

here they are the specs you wanted gx1 I was wrong and this is a pretty bad ass amp ill be keeping it LOL
Audiobahn A2401T

• 560W Max, Class A/B 2-Channel Car Amplifier
• RMS Power Rating:
• • 100 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms
  • 140 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 ohms
  • 280 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms Bridged
• Max Power Output: 560 watts @ 2 ohms stereo or 4 ohms bridged
• Full MOSFET Power Supply with Soft Start Class A/B Circuitry
• Preamp Outputs
• Cobalt Blue Illumination (on/off switch for your preference)
• • Circuit Board, Heat Sink, Audiobahn Name Plate, Volt-meter and End Caps illuminate
• Cobalt Blue Digital Volt-meter Display
• Clipping Blue LED Indicators under the volt-meter display
• Cooling Fan
• Chrome Flame Cooling Fan Grill Cover Included (other optional designs available and sold separately)
• Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board
• High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish
• Nickel Plated Block Terminals
• 3-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit and Overload
• High quality Bipolar Audio Stage
• On/Off Bass Boost Setting: 0 or +18dB
• Variable High-Pass Crossover: 50-750Hz
• Variable Low-Pass Crossover: 50-120Hz
• Variable Subsonic Filter: 20-50Hz
• Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB
• Frequency Response: 10Hz-40kHz
• THD: 0.02%
• Phase Control: 0 or 180°
• 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended. Contact us for information regarding a discount on a select amplifier kit when purchased together.
• Dimensions: 10-1/4" L x 12-3/4" W x 2-1/4" H

Like I said . . Don't know much but THD is a key quality sound performance spec.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

here they are the specs you wanted gx1 I was wrong and this is a pretty bad ass amp ill be keeping it LOL
Audiobahn A2401T

• 560W Max, Class A/B 2-Channel Car Amplifier
• RMS Power Rating:
• • 100 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms
  • 140 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 ohms
  • 280 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms Bridged
• Max Power Output: 560 watts @ 2 ohms stereo or 4 ohms bridged
• Full MOSFET Power Supply with Soft Start Class A/B Circuitry
• Preamp Outputs
• Cobalt Blue Illumination (on/off switch for your preference)
• • Circuit Board, Heat Sink, Audiobahn Name Plate, Volt-meter and End Caps illuminate
• Cobalt Blue Digital Volt-meter Display
• Clipping Blue LED Indicators under the volt-meter display
• Cooling Fan
• Chrome Flame Cooling Fan Grill Cover Included (other optional designs available and sold separately)
• Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board
• High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish
• Nickel Plated Block Terminals
• 3-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit and Overload
• High quality Bipolar Audio Stage
• On/Off Bass Boost Setting: 0 or +18dB
• Variable High-Pass Crossover: 50-750Hz
• Variable Low-Pass Crossover: 50-120Hz
• Variable Subsonic Filter: 20-50Hz
• Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB
• Frequency Response: 10Hz-40kHz
• THD: 0.02%
• Phase Control: 0 or 180°
• 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended. Contact us for information regarding a discount on a select amplifier kit when purchased together.
• Dimensions: 10-1/4" L x 12-3/4" W x 2-1/4" H

Very nice amp!!

Mine doesn’t have the crossovers so I control mine with a 1/2 DIN EQ w/ sub controller.

A guy could always use a higher powered amp (150- 200 watts per channel with .1% - 1% THD) and run it at less than 50% gain to cut down on the distortion. Either way I feel you would be spending about the same money.

 

[ShawnR]

I got on Crutchfield and am thinking of this amp:
https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Series/GM-A5702#specs ($95 on Amazon)
Nominal Power (RMS) Output at 4 Ω 150W x 2
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) <0.05% ( 10W, 1kHz)
Signal-to-Noise (SN) Ratio > 96dB

And the Kicker speakers from earlier post:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-fpeoYH5ODLI/p_206C104/Kicker-43C104.html


Instead of mounting them directly to the back seats, I'll build a custom sealed box (2 compartments) that just fits on the ledge.

That sound like a valid plan? Please point out any flaws or suggestions.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Nice find on the amp, but holy bass Batman. 1000 watts??? Who’s got the biggest now yo? Lol.

I believe the 43C104 are considered free air subs and can be mounted to a panel behind the back seat. You would have to seal everything off including the rear deck, 4x10’s and all.

It would definitely be easier to build a box to put them in.