My First 87 T Type

Frederick

Member
Last Friday-9-6-13 I picked up a 87 Ttype with 78,000 miles, original navy blue paint, rebuilt turbo, new plugs and wires, new fuel pump, new Mas and a few other things. The only things wrong with it are the rattley windows and the rough idle. The dealer who rebuilt the turbo said on the receipt that the owner should use premium gas and the idle would smooth out. So I filled it from 1/4 tank, with premium plus some Gum Out injector cleaner. I took it for a hundred and twenty mile drive today and it seems to be smoother but still a little rough. Tomorrow I'm taking it into a tire shop to get the wheels balanced. At about 45-50 mph it starts vibrating. Not real bad but anoying.
So for $12,260 did I get a decent deal? Or did I get screwed?
 

Frederick

Member
I'm not much for putting pics online. Just never got into it.
The car is in good shape. Interior looks new but I was assured that it is original,except the headliner and visors were replaced.
 

_Brent_

Member
You may not be into putting pictures online but they may help you to get a more informed answer to your question. I'm sure you can post a lot of details but as they say a picture says it all with a lot less effort. Another thing to think about is whether or not you are happy with your new purchase. That is really what it comes down to. You may hear folks tell you what they think you should have paid....some people like to make themselves out to be a superior negotiator and how much money they saved on a purchase
 
Sounds interesting. I have had my 2nd turbo t for about 3 years now. Love it and always good to have another person locally with them. You can def pick up a window rattle kit on kirbans performance to help that out. I have 2 sets just haven't felt like installing them yet.
 

notacarlo

eggs are liquid chicken
Get a boost gauge with vacuum. You might have a vacuum leak causing a rough idle. Does your check engine light come on while the car idles? O2 sensor could be bad as well, but that will throw a light. Window anti rattle kits are not hard to install, just tedious.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 

Frederick

Member
Get a boost gauge with vacuum. You might have a vacuum leak causing a rough idle. Does your check engine light come on while the car idles? O2 sensor could be bad as well, but that will throw a light. Window anti rattle kits are not hard to install, just tedious.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
I need to get the boost gauge. What else in the line of gauges should I get. I won't be racing this car!
Thanks for the heads- up on the anti-rattle kits. Sounds like a good winter project.
 
H

Heisenberg

Guest
How hard are those window kits to install? I haven't done any work on a car for about ten years.

To answer that question, and the other 100 questions you will have in the future - pictures may be helpful to you.
But that would mean someone will have to be "into posting pictures online". :p
 
H

Heisenberg

Guest
Last Friday-9-6-13 I picked up a 87 Ttype with 78,000 miles, original navy blue paint, rebuilt turbo, new plugs and wires, new fuel pump, new Mas and a few other things. The only things wrong with it are the rattley windows and the rough idle. The dealer who rebuilt the turbo said on the receipt that the owner should use premium gas and the idle would smooth out. So I filled it from 1/4 tank, with premium plus some Gum Out injector cleaner. I took it for a hundred and twenty mile drive today and it seems to be smoother but still a little rough. Tomorrow I'm taking it into a tire shop to get the wheels balanced. At about 45-50 mph it starts vibrating. Not real bad but anoying.
So for $12,260 did I get a decent deal? Or did I get screwed?

The dealer said ...:D
That was funny.

Consider a Spring cleaning.
There should be a sticky for it.

Premium gas would have little to next to nothing to do with a "rough" idle"
Premium gas will have everything to do with you getting up close and personal with your head gaskets or rod bearings.

This is a force fed performance machine.
Always use the highest octane you can buy.
And for now - don't start tweaking that boost (Up)
Or - you'll enjoy the term "rebuilding my engine"

First -
Take an inventory of your cars performance items.
What chip is installed?
What size injectors
What turbo?
How much boost?
Etc.

And STOP putting those petroleum distillates or any other unknown mystery snake oil in your fuel system!
The correct way to clean gummed up injectors - is to remove them and clean the gummed up injectors.

These cars don't have the smoothest idle in the world to begin with.

Usual suspects - vacuum system, MAF sensor.
Maybe even the chip (open loop vs closed loop idle).
Install a vacuum gauge - and look - Depending on cam - should be between 12-17 in.
Stock should be around 16-17 inches.
(Gently) Tap the (Stock?) MAF when it is idling. Does the idle change?
"New MAS" (MAF) doesn't always mean "Good MAF"

Step 2 for you.
Before you start replacing things and asking tons of vague questions.
Buy a SCANMASTER.
Period.
Then you can see what the IAC is up to and the TPS readings.
What is an IAC and TPS you say? And how are they adjusted? Start reading. A lot.

If you want to change some things - start with any old 25 year old rubber vacuum lines, etc.
And oh - THE ENGINE OIL!!!

2 cents worth.
Go slow.
Small small tweaks while you learn the car.
Keep the go-fast stuff to a minimum until you get things running to your liking and you feel confident the basics are attended to.
 

1fastcobra

Well-Known Member
I need to get the boost gauge. What else in the line of gauges should I get. I won't be racing this car!
Thanks for the heads- up on the anti-rattle kits. Sounds like a good winter project.
A scanmaster , a good chip. Get the vacuum / boost gauge so u can monitor if u leaks
Start there. And read as much as u can . for basic tech go to gnttype.org
For drama . Storys and the funniest moronic answers to tech questions you will ever find read this board

And remember never believe what u hear and only 50% of what u read
And you will enjoy your buick for years to come.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
H

Heisenberg

Guest
How hard are those window kits to install? I haven't done any work on a car for about ten years.

The issue is so pronounced that there is a entire book written on the subject of rattley windows, doors, poor window alignment etc. - one written by Pete Serio who used to do these mods and repairs at cruise ins.
You can find it at several of our vendors
One source is:
http://www.grandnationalspecialties.com/servlet/the-1723/"HOW-TO-ILLIMINATE-WINDOW/Detail
The repair kit that you can buy comes with instructions.
They even posted - "pictures" :D

If it is sagging doors or that sort of alignment that is the issue - again - entire threads devoted to that repair.
 
H

Heisenberg

Guest
Last Friday-9-6-13 I picked up a 87 Ttype with 78,000 miles, original navy blue paint, rebuilt turbo, new plugs and wires, new fuel pump, new Mas and a few other things. The only things wrong with it are the rattley windows and the rough idle. The dealer who rebuilt the turbo said on the receipt that the owner should use premium gas and the idle would smooth out. So I filled it from 1/4 tank, with premium plus some Gum Out injector cleaner. I took it for a hundred and twenty mile drive today and it seems to be smoother but still a little rough. Tomorrow I'm taking it into a tire shop to get the wheels balanced. At about 45-50 mph it starts vibrating. Not real bad but anoying.
So for $12,260 did I get a decent deal? Or did I get screwed?

As far as getting "screwed" - I'd say
At $12,600 for a 87 T is in "the ballpark" - depending.
Could be a tad high once you see some of the beautiful cars guys on here sell for under $10K. :D
But you own it now. So enjoy.

Did the seller provide any documentation to verify the 78,000 miles are original?
Many times - 78,000 means 178,000.
Or the cluster was swapped or rebuilt at some point - which is very common.
For a 25 year old car - I'd really like to see firm docs showing the incremental mileage through the years to get to 78,000.
Seems like every car I see for sale is advertised as an original "low mileage" unit.
Makes me say..."hmmmm"
Or - like my 87 GN that the ex sold out from under me in 95 - turned up for sale in 2002 with less miles on it than when I owned it. Interested in how that happens.:confused:
But "CarFax" certified! :rolleyes:
Maybe I'm the one getting screwed when all my cars had close to or over 100K. :mad:

You mention "original paint" - which as factory lacquer - could look wonderful or could look like an elephant's hide.
Paint is (one of) the big ticket items if you have to repaint.

Just for comparison's sake
I bought this (last year) for $9000
 

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GNRick

Retired member
I'd say u overpaid a bit. That would be a fair price for a GN. The TR's aren't worth as much, but as you already heard, it's yours now so enjoy! I like the blue cars. Does it still have the stock chip? If so, that could be the source of the poor idle. I see you are 2.5 hours from Full Throttle in Fraser. I would give them a call and see if you can bring the car over to them to have them look at it and check it out for you. They sell the translator, LT-1 MAF, and matching chip. http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/items.asp+Cc+BUCONTROLS+iTpStatus+0+Tp++Bc+
 
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