Morel lifters are loud

precizion818 said:
That’s what I used..... also a good point as I think there was a bolt that you have to purchase to bolt up the starter. Also may need to enlarge the wire lug hole to fit on the electrical connection.


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A couple basic questions from the shadiest shade tree mechanic... Just rebuilt my motor and put it back in, wanted to upgrade on the starter. Bought this guy, LT4 starter ACDelco part # 12691976, and I've bought a longer (45") positive battery cable.View attachment

From reading multiple forum threads, I'm thinking I need to extend the harness wires a bit and put a larger connector on the small wire to fit the larger post on the new starter? Am I headed in the right direction?
 
dedreckoner said:
I'm thinking I need to extend the harness wires a bit and put a larger connector on the small wire to fit the larger post on the new starter?
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I'd add new fusible links, and extend the grounds to go up on the rear intake bolt/stud.
Check out Caspers Electronics for the right stuff.
 
Chuck Leeper said:
I'd add new fusible links, and extend the grounds to go up on the rear intake bolt/stud.
Check out Caspers Electronics for the right stuff.
Click to expand...
gotcha, ordered 3 fusible links to extend the wires to the starter.

just double checking, am I correct that the smaller wire goes to the post I pointed to in the pic above on the mini starter?
thanks for the help.
 
dedreckoner said:
gotcha, ordered 3 fusible links to extend the wires to the starter.

just double checking, am I correct that the smaller wire goes to the post I pointed to in the pic above on the mini starter?
thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
While u r behind the head, Id suggest getting the ground stretcher kit, too.
 
Tori said:
my starter just shit the bed, figure while i'm at it i'll replace with a cool guy gear reduction starter. I know i don't need it, but i like the way they sound......

Anyway, anyone using one ? I tried to search for info on them here, but only came up with 3 posts from 10+ years ago.
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View attachment
 
I used DB Electrical Roadmaster one shown earlier in the thread. Spins the engine fine going on 10 years.
 
From the way you have your picture, I believe if you put your positive cable on the lug you have pointed out, your starter is going to run all the time.

To me, from your picture, put the positive wire and fusible links on the longer top stud. Any other (smaller) wire (ignition) goes on the spade lug that is hard to see in the picture.
 
Ttype6 said:
That is not the correct starter and, yes, you do not want to connect the positive cable to the stud you have pointed to.

This is the type of corvette starter to use.


This is the type of permanent magnet gear reduction starter to use.

The first starter will need some extension cables and the second starter will bolt right up.
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I agree that is not the right starter. That one requires an electrical weather pack connector for the starter exciter wire. Dont use that one and get the right one!
 
Why bother with a starter that's larger than it needs to be, way more expensive and you have to mess with the wires?
 
Pronto said:
Why bother with a starter that's larger than it needs to be, way more expensive and you have to mess with the wires?
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The Corvette starter is quite robust because of its direct gear drive. It uses a small gear to directly drive a larger gear. It's very simple and strong. The permanent magnet mini starters have planetary gears rotating around a gear on the motor shaft surrounded by a ring gear. I've had two of them fail because the pins that the planetary gears rotate on wobble out of the bores they are pressed into and that makes a mess. The plastic outer ring gear is commonly blamed for the failure and there are two different aftermarket steal ring gears available for these starters. If the pins that hold the planetary gears in place become loose and move out of there bores, it doesn't matter what the ring gear is made of. I do like the aftermarket parts available for these starters and currently use one with aftermarket parts because I do like plug and play.

The corvette starter I have cost me $50.00 at a salvage yard.
 
Ttype6 said:
That is not the correct starter and, yes, you do not want to connect the positive cable to the stud you have pointed to.

This is the type of corvette starter to use.


This is the type of permanent magnet gear reduction starter to use.

The first starter will need some extension cables and the second starter will bolt right up.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I was afraid of that. I'll get the right one! Always good to ask here, lot's of brains to pick and tons to learn.
 
Does anybody know who sells that particular starter in stock/ I haven't found one available yet....
 
salvageV6 said:
Does anybody know who sells that particular starter in stock/ I haven't found one available yet....
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You want to get a starter with a steel stationary ring gear and the Mercruiser starter that is currently out of stock does have one. The starter that DB lists as the correct starter for our cars does not. I took mine apart after it failed and installed good parts. The only pmgr/mini starter, that I know of and is currently available, that comes with a steel stationary ring gear is the starter that Kirban sells. If you have a factory original equipment starter and it makes no noise when you turn the ignition switch to the start position, replace the brushes and you will have a starter that turns the engine over faster than any starter available for our cars.
 
Ttype6 said:
This is the correct starter and they mention in their description that they use a steel stationary ring gear.
Click to expand...
got the starter in and it engaged right off the bat. thanks for the advice.
got the '87 Limited started up and driving for the first time in 15+ years today. feels good.
 
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