Main bearings, rod bearings, gaskets

obrut

Member
Cleaned the lifters a few times and then soaked them in oil. I assembled the front cover and water pump and installed the pickup and pan.

I installed the roller lifters in the same order that they were removed. Does it matter which way the hole in the side of the lifter faces?
20160123_122855.jpg 20160123_132123.jpg 20160123_133236.jpg
 

ek02

Well-Known Member
They can only go in one way, link bars to the center of the valley. You have them right.
 

obrut

Member
20160128_210016.jpg 20160128_210024.jpg 20160128_210404.jpg I checked the cam end play after torquing the front cover and letting it sit for a few days. I measured .017" so I need to add at least a .010" shim to get the end play between .005-.010 When I removed the front cover to get the cam button bolt off some oil got on the front cover gasket. Can I just cleanup the gasket and use it or should I buy another and remeasure?
Also what is the torque for the cam button bolt?
Is the torrington bearing facing the correct way?
 

obrut

Member
After some searching I found a post from a few years ago and saw 40 ft/lbs for the cam button bolt and to set the end play to .010-.015
I have a PTE billet roller if that make any difference, I was trying to get the end play to .005
 

obrut

Member
I ended up using the same gasket, cleaned everything up, loctited the cam button bolt and torqued to 40 ft lbs. Assembled the front cover and my final cam end play was .005 I measured off a cam lobe in the valley and off the back and measured the same .005 20160129_214638.jpg 20160129_214658.jpg

I taped a 1.45" long label on the balancer and moved the crank 25 degrees atdc and drop the sensor in with the dot to passenger side. 20160129_225604.jpg 20160129_225522.jpg Is that the right gear for a roller cam? Its the stock one.

I also check the crank end play one more time and measured .005 20160130_094540.jpg 20160130_094526.jpg

I installed the rear freeze plug with some permatex #1
20160130_102856.jpg

I installed the flywheel, added a small drop of red loctite to each bolt and torqued to 60 ftlbs.

Attached the engine to the trans and got it in the car.
20160130_133648.jpg
 
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Chris Hogeland

TWISTED 6 RACING
I ended up using the same gasket, cleaned everything up, loctited the cam button bolt and torqued to 40 ft lbs. Assembled the front cover and my final cam end play was .005 I measured off a cam lobe in the valley and off the back and measured the same .005 View attachment 272575 View attachment 272576

I taped a 1.45" long label on the balancer and moved the crank 25 degrees atdc and drop the sensor in with the dot to passenger side. View attachment 272577 View attachment 272578 Is that the right gear for a roller cam? Its the stock one.

I also check the crank end play one more time and measured .005 View attachment 272583 View attachment 272579

I installed the rear freeze plug with some permatex #1
View attachment 272580

I installed the flywheel, added a small drop of red loctite to each bolt and torqued to 60 ftlbs.

Attached the engine to the trans and got it in the car.
View attachment 272581

That cam button bolt needs to be 70 foot pounds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

obrut

Member
That cam button bolt needs to be 70 foot pounds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did some more searching and found some used 50 ftlbs and 70 ftlbs too, my original search was for PTE roller button torque. I found a post from Mike Licht say 40 ftlbs.
So which is it
40
50
70
?
I did 40 ft/lbs with red loctite
 

BEATAV8

The Engine Whisperer
Search for info regarding drive gear wear on the billet core cams too. I would use one only with a dedicated oil supply to the gear. Guys have come up with a few different methods on here.
 

obrut

Member
Well looks like I'm going to take the front cover off again. How many times can I take the front cover on and off before I need to replace the oil pan and front cover gaskets? I'll remove the cam bolt clean, apply loctite again and torque to 70 ft/lbs this time.
I'm going to look through some of my stuff, I think I have a NOS single nozzle laying around with some jets. Connect that to a 12" braided line and run that over to the turbo/oil pressure oil tap on the side of the block? I think I just need to buy a 12" braided line with -4 on one side and is it 1/4 NPT on the other?

BTW thanks for the replies
 
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obrut

Member
Front cover is off, i removed, cleaned and then red loctite the cam bolt and torqued to 70 ft/lbs. I trying to make a oil squirter and here is what I'm thinking of doing.
20160220_105925.jpg I would cut the end off the fogger nozzle so its a straight shot.

Here it is with a mocked up front cam gear width and depth.
20160220_110023.jpg


The nozzel would be 1.5" from the front cam gear. I would rather drill and tap the fuel pump cover, it's thicker. Is this going to be adequate?
 
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obrut

Member
What a nightmare.... dropped a push rod into the block, cant get the end play set right, and then snapped the cam button bolt. 70 ft lbs is not the correct torque for this bolt. Now ive gone backwards.

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