This is a how-to article I posted on the "other" board in 2004. That new LT-4 starter is still going strong 6 years later.
LT-4 Corvette Starter Upgrade for `86 -`87 TR’s and `89 TTA’s.
Original equipment starter on `88 - `96 Corvettes with VIN codes P, 5 & 8. Produced for GM by Nippondenso in Japan and shipped to distributors from GM’s facility in Tennessee.
Features: All new construction, gear reduction, built-in solenoid, additional torque, low current draw, lightest available, compact size, nose-less end frame design, no modifications required, genuine GM OE part, reasonable pricing.
Benefits: No core exchange required, reliable, complete, improved hot and cold start, cranks high compression & heat-soaked engines, less battery power required, no nose cone to break if engine backfires while cranking or from improper ring gear clearance, substantial weight savings – about 8 pounds less than the stocker, fits with stock trans shield, exhaust manifold, downpipe and starter heat shield, easy installation, excellent availability and affordability, can easily convert back to stock for originality.
Installation: Disconnect the battery, raise front of vehicle and secure with jack stands at the car’s frame. Disconnect starter wiring at the solenoid terminals and remove stock starter (Removal of the starter may require crossover pipe R&R due to tight clearance at the transmission cooler lines). Retain thin star washer from large solenoid stud as the new starter stud is slightly shorter. Also save the small nut and washer for the new starter. Do not reuse the original long starter mounting bolt; it is about 3/8” too long. See the Parts list for new replacement bolts. Save any starter shims (if present) for re-use.
Inspect flywheel ring gear for worn or broken teeth and replace if necessary. Secure the new LT-4 starter and shims if they were required on the original starter using new bolts to the engine block. If the tab on the starter shim interferes with the cooler lines just trim it off. Install the starter wiring using a washer and a new metric nut for the large copper stud and the ones you saved for the small terminal. Reconnect the battery and test start.
If a “singing” noise is encountered after engine fires and the flywheel checks ok, starter shims may be required. Some blocks require up to .100” shim(s) available at most auto parts stores, others will not need them. Be sure to disconnect the battery again before installing any shim(s) and re-check the bolt torque after a dozen or so cranks.
Parts list: Starter Assy. GM – AC/Delco # 10455709 (Somewhat unique in the GM – AC/Delco parts system as the number is identical for both sources).
Long starter bolt GM # 12338064
Short starter bolt GM # 14037733 (Optional, see LT-4 Observations)
(Caution: The GM bolts have the proper cross-hatch pattern on the shanks to withstand loosening of the starter due to vibration unlike some aftermarket and stainless bolts).
Metric nuts and washers size: 8mmX1.25 (Large terminal)
GM 2-bolt starter shims (If necessary)
Cost: The starter runs anywhere between $130.00 and $175.00. The 2 GM bolts range from a few dollars to over $7.00 each. Shims, nuts and washers should be under $4.00 for the set. Do some comparison shopping locally and on the web as well. Don’t forget to factor in shipping & handling if additional.
Sources: Your local GM dealer can order the starter and bolts. Any parts store with access to AC/Delco parts can get the starter too, although the GM bolts are only available through the car dealer. The solenoid nuts & washers are metric and are not supplied with the starter, as well as any starter shims you may need. See your auto parts person for those.
Alternatives 1.) LT-1 `95 - `97 GM Cars # 323-488 (Remanufactured only through AC/Delco). Better design than O.E. but slightly heavier than LT-4 and has aluminum nose like original. Slightly lower pricing than a new LT-4 but a core exchange is required from an AC/Delco supplier.
2.) CVR Protorque Racing Starter # 171-5323 Also manufactured by Nippondenso, has several “clock positions” which may clear non-stock header/downpipe configurations and hybrid chassis, complete install kits with bolts and shims, more expensive.
3.) Tilton Super Starters. Heavy Duty and Super Duty designs, complete kits, more expensive.
LT-4 Observations: Simple installation, mine took 10 minutes from start to finish. My GN has aftermarket trans. cooler lines, as such the tubing and the crossover pipe did not interfere. The lighter weight and accessible wiring make this swap a breeze. When I installed mine, the short GM bolt was not in stock at any dealer in town. I re-used the original bolt as the hole in the mounting pad for the short bolt on the 109 block is open and tapped all the way through. The short bolt hole can accommodate the longer length. No re-torque was needed. My block required 2 shims to quiet the sing, (Here’s where the weight savings pays off right away, easy to hold the starter up while you install the shims) a thick 1/16” and a thin 1/32” one from NAPA’s GM shim assortment.
Although the average do-it-yourselfer probably won’t tackle rebuilding or repairing the unit due to its modular construction, the benefits of all-around better performance greatly out-weigh the additional costs involved. The engine cranks in all weather nicely, from hot engine to stone cold sub-zero temps.
And yes, it does have that distinctive gear-reduction whine.
Feel free to contact me with any questions or comments. topjimmy@bex.net
LT-4 Corvette Starter Upgrade for `86 -`87 TR’s and `89 TTA’s.
Original equipment starter on `88 - `96 Corvettes with VIN codes P, 5 & 8. Produced for GM by Nippondenso in Japan and shipped to distributors from GM’s facility in Tennessee.
Features: All new construction, gear reduction, built-in solenoid, additional torque, low current draw, lightest available, compact size, nose-less end frame design, no modifications required, genuine GM OE part, reasonable pricing.
Benefits: No core exchange required, reliable, complete, improved hot and cold start, cranks high compression & heat-soaked engines, less battery power required, no nose cone to break if engine backfires while cranking or from improper ring gear clearance, substantial weight savings – about 8 pounds less than the stocker, fits with stock trans shield, exhaust manifold, downpipe and starter heat shield, easy installation, excellent availability and affordability, can easily convert back to stock for originality.
Installation: Disconnect the battery, raise front of vehicle and secure with jack stands at the car’s frame. Disconnect starter wiring at the solenoid terminals and remove stock starter (Removal of the starter may require crossover pipe R&R due to tight clearance at the transmission cooler lines). Retain thin star washer from large solenoid stud as the new starter stud is slightly shorter. Also save the small nut and washer for the new starter. Do not reuse the original long starter mounting bolt; it is about 3/8” too long. See the Parts list for new replacement bolts. Save any starter shims (if present) for re-use.
Inspect flywheel ring gear for worn or broken teeth and replace if necessary. Secure the new LT-4 starter and shims if they were required on the original starter using new bolts to the engine block. If the tab on the starter shim interferes with the cooler lines just trim it off. Install the starter wiring using a washer and a new metric nut for the large copper stud and the ones you saved for the small terminal. Reconnect the battery and test start.
If a “singing” noise is encountered after engine fires and the flywheel checks ok, starter shims may be required. Some blocks require up to .100” shim(s) available at most auto parts stores, others will not need them. Be sure to disconnect the battery again before installing any shim(s) and re-check the bolt torque after a dozen or so cranks.
Parts list: Starter Assy. GM – AC/Delco # 10455709 (Somewhat unique in the GM – AC/Delco parts system as the number is identical for both sources).
Long starter bolt GM # 12338064
Short starter bolt GM # 14037733 (Optional, see LT-4 Observations)
(Caution: The GM bolts have the proper cross-hatch pattern on the shanks to withstand loosening of the starter due to vibration unlike some aftermarket and stainless bolts).
Metric nuts and washers size: 8mmX1.25 (Large terminal)
GM 2-bolt starter shims (If necessary)
Cost: The starter runs anywhere between $130.00 and $175.00. The 2 GM bolts range from a few dollars to over $7.00 each. Shims, nuts and washers should be under $4.00 for the set. Do some comparison shopping locally and on the web as well. Don’t forget to factor in shipping & handling if additional.
Sources: Your local GM dealer can order the starter and bolts. Any parts store with access to AC/Delco parts can get the starter too, although the GM bolts are only available through the car dealer. The solenoid nuts & washers are metric and are not supplied with the starter, as well as any starter shims you may need. See your auto parts person for those.
Alternatives 1.) LT-1 `95 - `97 GM Cars # 323-488 (Remanufactured only through AC/Delco). Better design than O.E. but slightly heavier than LT-4 and has aluminum nose like original. Slightly lower pricing than a new LT-4 but a core exchange is required from an AC/Delco supplier.
2.) CVR Protorque Racing Starter # 171-5323 Also manufactured by Nippondenso, has several “clock positions” which may clear non-stock header/downpipe configurations and hybrid chassis, complete install kits with bolts and shims, more expensive.
3.) Tilton Super Starters. Heavy Duty and Super Duty designs, complete kits, more expensive.
LT-4 Observations: Simple installation, mine took 10 minutes from start to finish. My GN has aftermarket trans. cooler lines, as such the tubing and the crossover pipe did not interfere. The lighter weight and accessible wiring make this swap a breeze. When I installed mine, the short GM bolt was not in stock at any dealer in town. I re-used the original bolt as the hole in the mounting pad for the short bolt on the 109 block is open and tapped all the way through. The short bolt hole can accommodate the longer length. No re-torque was needed. My block required 2 shims to quiet the sing, (Here’s where the weight savings pays off right away, easy to hold the starter up while you install the shims) a thick 1/16” and a thin 1/32” one from NAPA’s GM shim assortment.
Although the average do-it-yourselfer probably won’t tackle rebuilding or repairing the unit due to its modular construction, the benefits of all-around better performance greatly out-weigh the additional costs involved. The engine cranks in all weather nicely, from hot engine to stone cold sub-zero temps.
And yes, it does have that distinctive gear-reduction whine.
Feel free to contact me with any questions or comments. topjimmy@bex.net