Knock Retard processing speed Stock ECU vs JS box and keeping it alive

Here is knock trace with the JS and the XFI esc working together on the transbrake, I have turned down the sensitivity of the JS, so it picks up less knock, just to show you how it works, compared to the fast knock processing. I could turn up the JS so that the fast will never see knock. The JS trace is in light blue, fast knock in green.

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Here is knock trace with the JS and the XFI esc working together on the transbrake, I have turned down the sensitivity of the JS, so it picks up less knock, just to show you how it works, compared to the fast knock processing. I could turn up the JS so that the fast will never see knock. The JS trace is in light blue, fast knock in green.

View attachment 197669

That's pretty sweet



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For those who ordered boxes please share your feedback and or dyno numbers if possible. It would be interesting to get as much data as possible with and without the box in use.
 
In 1990 I tested the unit on Rick Stanton's 460 Ford Ranchero. I knew Rick from when we were lab techs at Hughes Aircraft. We used a stop watch and accelerated from a standing start to 60 mph onto the freeway. In retard all mode the time was nine seconds. We then switched to individual cylinder mode and we were a full second faster.

We didn't think of trying it without the controller and setting the timing for no audible knock.
A couple years later Super Chevy did just that, and the controller showed a 13% gain at 3000 RPM, versus setting it for no knock. Remember, when you tune for "no knock", you are tuning for the worst cylinder, which can rob power from the others.

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/images/893SSpage38.jpg
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/images/893SSpage123.jpg

I haven't talked to Rick in several years so I googled for his Ranchero and turned up his project Talledega:

http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_0712_1969_ford_torino_talladega/viewall.html
 
hi,
i just wanted to say that i didn't get my vampire totally setup b/c of hanging with the family and poor fall weather and the car was put away for the winter 2 weeks ago.

but i was able to get a couple runs that i was in cruise then wot at 45mph and it spun the tires and was suprised that my 301 was capable of this at 17lbs of boost, sorry that i don't have any other info but i will have to wait till spring now.

does anyone else have any info on their j&s systems?

have to get the igloo and dog sled ready up here in the great white north. lol

later Kevin
 
Kevin: Thanks very much for your support and feedback.

I am still waiting to hear from sscamino. The last time we talked he said he was documenting the installation. He ran into problems installing the three channel Vampire.

On paper it looked so easy, just splice the J&S control wires into the coil negative signals underneath the coil packs. It turns out there is limited space between the ignition module and the coil packs, but we figured out a good way to do it.
 
Kevin: Thanks very much for your support and feedback.

I am still waiting to hear from sscamino. The last time we talked he said he was documenting the installation. He ran into problems installing the three channel Vampire.

On paper it looked so easy, just splice the J&S control wires into the coil negative signals underneath the coil packs. It turns out there is limited space between the ignition module and the coil packs, but we figured out a good way to do it.

theres a plastic spacer out there already for using the 87 coilpack on the 85 module , not sure where to look for one but it was a common part
 
Here is a picture of how I tapped into the coil packs neg. coil drive signals which are yellow/blk , green/blk , and blue/blk on my 86 .The J&S Vampire yellow,green,and white wires go to those 3 wires in any order. The Red wire of the Vampire picks up 12v+ off the solid blue wire going to all 3 coils.Because of lack of space and wire between the coil and the module and John and I decided to cut off and install new flag terminals using them as the splice. After hard wiring them in I wanted a way to be able to unplug the unit, so I made a small 12in harness with male and female disconnects. The J&S Vampire Kit wasn't hard to install,the trickiest part is working with 27 year old wires. Do to lack of time and bad weather ,I haven't been able to test drive and adjust the sensitivity. More pictures and the complete install to come , just wanted to show how I did the wiring.
 

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I recently updated the Vampire unit, adding a rev limiter. To install, no wires are cut or intercepted. The three "control wires" splice into the factory coil signal wires. I posted a demo video a couple days ago:
 
I recently updated the Vampire unit, adding a rev limiter. To install, no wires are cut or intercepted. The three "control wires" splice into the factory coil signal wires. I posted a demo video a couple days ago:
How do we update our units? Do we need to update software or something else?

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
 
Sorry, I just saw your question.
This is a very extensive update, so there is no simple upgrade. You would have to buy the new version.
I moved the main harness connector to the rear, making room for "Knock-Finder" LED's on the front panel, as well as knobs for nitrous retard and rev limit adjust. I also added some mode switches and test points.
 
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