Just Shut Down on me!?

Ignition Module. This is what it was when it happened to me.

More than one, and every time.
 
Does this crank sensor look right? Looks like it's missing a point. It was a major sucker to get off. Also covered in oil. Could this be the culprit of the no start?
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Does this crank sensor look right? Looks like it's missing a point. It was a major sucker to get off. Also covered in oil. Could this be the culprit of the no start?
View attachment 324929View attachment 324930View attachment 324931

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It looks like something has hit it. I wouldn't put it back on.

Here is a link to the brand i use,has a good warranty and reasonable price. They are pretty much all the same as long as it's for your application.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...4-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15005|L3*15656
 
Does this crank sensor look right? Looks like it's missing a point. It was a major sucker to get off. Also covered in oil. Could this be the culprit of the no start?
View attachment 324929View attachment 324930View attachment 324931

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
It looks like something has hit it. I wouldn't put it back on.

Here is a link to the brand i use,has a good warranty and reasonable price. They are pretty much all the same as long as it's for your application.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...4-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15005|L3*15656
Thanks.

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I would check out your main fuseable links at your starter . I had the same thing happen to me awhile ago and it ended up being a nice and toasty positive wire at the starter


Same thing happened to me, this is a good thing to check.


Had the same thing happen once. Turned out to be the crank sensor. I guess i got lucky with that, it only took about 15 minutes for me to come to the conclusion that it was the crank sensor. I just happened to have a spare one with me and was back up and running after installing it.

I had taken off from a traffic light a little aggressively and about midway of the block on the street i was on the engine made a loud pop / bang noise of a backfire and the engine shut down, i was able to coast to the next street and make the turn onto a nice grassy spot under a shade tree.


This happened to me in my first GN when I did a giant smoky burnout in front of my house one time. Burned up the crank sensor.
 
I would check out your main fuseable links at your starter . I had the same thing happen to me awhile ago and it ended up being a nice and toasty positive wire at the starter


Same thing happened to me, this is a good thing to check.


Had the same thing happen once. Turned out to be the crank sensor. I guess i got lucky with that, it only took about 15 minutes for me to come to the conclusion that it was the crank sensor. I just happened to have a spare one with me and was back up and running after installing it.

I had taken off from a traffic light a little aggressively and about midway of the block on the street i was on the engine made a loud pop / bang noise of a backfire and the engine shut down, i was able to coast to the next street and make the turn onto a nice grassy spot under a shade tree.


This happened to me in my first GN when I did a giant smoky burnout in front of my house one time. Burned up the crank sensor.
Why does that happen? Did the sensor move under the force or...?


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as ugly as that sensor looks ill try to interject some reality into this which seems tohave gone astray

your original post claimed you still had spark ..that crank sensor is responsible for the spark untill the cam sensor catches at which time the crank sensor is responsible for spark and individual injector .. spark but no injector your cam sensor isnt working
 
as ugly as that sensor looks ill try to interject some reality into this which seems tohave gone astray

your original post claimed you still had spark ..that crank sensor is responsible for the spark untill the cam sensor catches at which time the crank sensor is responsible for spark and individual injector .. spark but no injector your cam sensor isnt working
You are right Paul. I did this backwards and jumped at a part. I read too many late night posts pointing to crank sensor that I didn't listen to reality and the steps 1 through 10 first. I've been short on time all week due to work that I just took a chance on the sensor without the logic that should have told me to skip it.

Back to reality. I'll be at it tomorrow following a more patient, pragmatic and sensible approach to this as you guys have laid out.


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Jumped the fuel pump. It's dead. Banging on tank for some CPR has no effect. Relay from the hot wire kit clicks so that's good.

Apparently, my 3 year old Racetronix 255lph pump has taken a crap.

I wonder if it's time for this DW that Richard Clark has tested that appears compatible with stock fuel lines?

I'll need a new sending unit too, might as well if I'm doing this again. Can you buy those individually anywhere??

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clicking relay is not an indication of good ..testing for voltage to the pump would be advised before yanking but if your fuel level sender is fubar than might as well replace it
 
But jumping the red wires on the square wire pack near the tank on the hot wire kit should power the pump, right? If not, the pump is dead, right?
clicking relay is not an indication of good ..testing for voltage to the pump would be advised before yanking but if your fuel level sender is fubar than might as well replace it

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again ..if there is voltage.. and pump doesnt run either pump is dead or connector came off the pump in the tank
 
again ..if there is voltage.. and pump doesnt run either pump is dead or connector came off the pump in the tank
Got it. Bear with me. Automotive troubleshooting is not my strong suit but with this car, I'm learning fast. And I want to learn cause I'm going to need it keeping this car.

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if you jump 12v to the wire behind alternator you only supply 12v to the relay coil of the hotwire , the large hotwire thats fused off back of alternator runs to hotwire relay and then when coil closes it is supposed to feed the pump ..provided the relay contacts are fried so if you have voltage at the large red wirre at relay and jump it to the red output wire to pump and pump doesn't run you have an issue inside the tank ..either pump dead or connection issue
 
if you jump 12v to the wire behind alternator you only supply 12v to the relay coil of the hotwire , the large hotwire thats fused off back of alternator runs to hotwire relay and then when coil closes it is supposed to feed the pump ..provided the relay contacts are fried so if you have voltage at the large red wirre at relay and jump it to the red output wire to pump and pump doesn't run you have an issue inside the tank ..either pump dead or connection issue
Just take a couple jumper wires and disconnect the sending unit plug in the back. Black grd grey hot. That eliminates it all.
 
Just take a couple jumper wires and disconnect the sending unit plug in the back. Black grd grey hot. That eliminates it all.
I would have shot starting fluid in it 1st. Now you need a new crank sensor too lol. Don’t you love Buick’s.
 
Just take a couple jumper wires and disconnect the sending unit plug in the back. Black grd grey hot. That eliminates it all.
+1. Make sure you jump the pump directly and don't go through any relays. If the pump still doesn't run then it's the pump or the connector in the tank. If it runs, which was the case when I had to get towed then it's a relay or a bad connection. Mine was a bad connection in the hotwire connector right back at the pump. I tightened up the female connectors and all was well.
 
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