Just got the engine out, Need Help!

2muchTQ

New Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Alright guys, just got my engine out of my 87nat and im lookin to get mid-high 10's out of it without using any drugs. Already planning to send it out to bore and hone, port and polish, and im gonna do cam, lifters, rods, ect. But i want to know what you guys think i should use (ie 218/218 or 208/208 and so on)

Should i do a new turbo? what would you suggest? 70mm?

The input is appreciated already thank you!

Jake

PS i already have fuel pressure regulator, 60# inj, turbotweak chip, new fuel pump and hotwire kit, and a new scanmaster.
 
I would think..

That you need to consider the supporting hardware for the horsepower needed to run 10's.
Transmission that will hold up reliably, torque converter, suspension for good launches, etc.

The key is the combination.
 
A) who is doing the machine work? These aren't SBCs...
B) heads, mild hyd roller cam, alky, good turbo, trans (as mentioned), rroll cage, other assorted safety mods.......check your wallet, and report back:eek:
 
This is a winter build so money will be stretched out, its not an overnight project.

The tranny i had rebuilt in the spring, with a new torq converter 28 or 32 (i dont know the exact stall cause i just had him build it to handle what i wanted to do, they do very good work to so i trust it will handle what i want, whatever stall it may be)

The machine shop has a good reputation within my family (my two brothers are mechanics and have had multiple engines in there) so that is also not a problem.

Also, I am trying to stay away from alchy for the moment.

So, if i could just get some suggestions on the size cam i should use, or a good combination of parts/mods that i should do, that would be excellent.

Thanks guys!
 
Alky should be one of your first investments with these engines. Not only is it a blast it can save your engine from a major catastrophe.
I have a Comp Cams hyd roller( 218/212 ), lifters, push rods, double roller timing chain and a set of Scorpion Roller rockers( 1:55's) that all have less than 100 miles on them if you are interested. I just got a billet roller ( 224/224 ) and 1:65's for my new engine.
 
Who Is Doing The Machine Work??? That Matters Alot. It Is Not A Sbc Meaning Small Block Chevrolet!!!
 
Make sure you give the machine shop a list of exact Specs you want & nothing else should be accepted. Then your OK. Still a shop that knows the engines is better but if they Follow YOUR Spec sheet it should be fine.

GNTTYPE.org has build guides for 10-11-12 sec motors. These cars are not super cam sensitive but some reading there will give you some ideas where to start.
 
What are your goals? Your goals will determine what clearances you need to shoot for.

Atleast do the following:
- Main hone
- Center billet main caps
- Balance rotating assembly
- Forged Pistons
- Recondition rods (magnaflux)
- Check crank, cut if necessary
- Do oiling mods on front cover/filter adapter
- I like to drill out the center two main oil feeds (more volume). They each feed 2 rods.
- ARP main studs
- ARP head bolts or studs depending goal.

CLEAN,CLEAN,CLEAN,CLEAN,CLEAN

I like to clean my parts with laquer thinner before assembly. I go through 4 gallons of laquer thinner on my motor assembly. I buy the laquer thinner from Homey Cheapo.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Without screaming "Get someone reputable to build the bottom end" Just make you ask whomever does the work, straight up "If a rod knocks or bearing goes what will the policy be? i.e. warranty on machine work. As I have heard DLS say "A bearing does not go bad" meaning external factors will be the culprit.
Do not make the mistake of leaving there without a detailed invoice that includes internal parts (hard an soft) used, all clearances, machine services rendered. This will serve you even if you take it back to them 2 years later, or take it to another builder 6 months later.

Ok past all that.

Like someone said, the Cam size is not going to be your major player for making enough horsepower to run mid tens ~500 RWHP. Actually the cam decision needs to be based on what operating rpm you want to make best torque. TQ is always the major player. Volumetric efficiency on turbo applications are going to be sufficient for any decent cam choice, but at what rpm do you plan on having VEs reach peak should be the question. This is going to drive your turbo choice.

If this is a street car, make it enjoyable by keeping the TQ curve starting at 2800. The HP will continue to rise until 5500rpm. Max TQ should be in around 3500rpm and stay constant until 5000 rpm. This means no 70MM turbo. You will not be able to turn the turbo at the RPM necessary to reach max air input into the cylinders with such a large turbo. The new technology turbos are designed so the air speed leaving the exducer tip is faster that inducer incoming air. This makes the compressor not have to spin so fast to create boost at low rpms.

Anyway, all of this to say, HP is radians per second and TQ is filling the cylinders to the max - force times area times leverage. Figure out if you want a fun riding street car that can burn rubber at 3000rpm or if you want make high HP at 6100 rpm, and have to buy a converter for 900bucks that is loose on the bottom end and efficient enough after the rated stall speed it surpassed. Once decided on rpm band, then run some numbers and read some compressor maps to pick a good turbo that will match your cam operating rpm.
Too many mid-range power seekers run out ,get caught up in much hype, and buy big parts only to realize that the car is sluggish and not enjoyable as it once was. And Yes you can smoke that new Vette and New Shelby with a 61mm wheel. It will take them more than a tracks length to catch up.
Then once you learn how to tune and coexist with headgaskets, then step up to a 70mmGTQ is so desire.
 
Alright thanks alot guys, all your input is great.

And yes im lookin to keep it a fun street car, because i live right near woodward ave (like the Woodward Dream Cruise, if you know what that is) so we go out there all the time when its nice out.


thanks again!
 
Anyway, all of this to say, HP is radians per second and TQ is filling the cylinders to the max - force times area times leverage.

You live in the dirty you don no nutin bout no radians:biggrin:

Seriously...Good advice in this thread.
 
You said Fun Street car in your last post. get a 49 turbo, 3000 10" LU converter, sticky tires & Smoke Em at Will!! Still bring you a nice easy 11 at the track! had that for years & loved it! Then, ya wanna go faster! ;)
 
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