Installing Wilwood 140-12297 front disc questions

0-60n4

Active Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2003
I checked that third flexline near the diff and looks like my brother must have replaced it with a stainless braided line as some point.
 

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0-60n4

Active Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2003
But that got me thinking, I may have let some air into the system at the master cylinder so I'm going to bleed the rear brakes tomorrow just in case. While looking at the rest of the brake lines, I see a lot going on that I don't understand. Here's some pics. See anything unusual? I see a small distribution block on the frame next to the driver side front wheel. Then some other thing on the inside of the frame a little behind the same wheel. What is that for?
 

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Turbo6inKY

Short Guy
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
But that got me thinking, I may have let some air into the system at the master cylinder so I'm going to bleed the rear brakes tomorrow just in case. While looking at the rest of the brake lines, I see a lot going on that I don't understand. Here's some pics. See anything unusual? I see a small distribution block on the frame next to the driver side front wheel. Then some other thing on the inside of the frame a little behind the same wheel. What is that for?
You have some shit going on.

The second picture is the factory proportioning/residual pressure valve. If you're keeping the factory rear drums, you want to keep that.

The other two pictures appear to detail some fuckery. The first looks like somebody spliced in an adjustable proportioning valve, and the third makes it appear they cut that aftermarket prop valve in in after the factory proportioning valve, effectively bypassing it.

Which might be the problem. Drum brakes require about 10psi of residual pressure be maintained in the line, or the springs in the drum assembly pull the shoes away from the drum. That leads to a soft initial pedal as the first hit on the brakes pushes the shoes back against the drum. The factory prop valve does this, but what I'm seeing indicates that valve has been bypassed.

In situations like this, it's always wise to get it back to stock and working properly before moving ahead.
 

0-60n4

Active Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2003
OK. that makes sense. The car had a line lock on it before my brother bought it so they were doing something with the brake lines. Kenny removed the line lock after he bought it. I will get that corrected and that should solve a lot of the pedal travel. Thanks for your help.

JIm
 

1KWIKSIX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2007
Are you using the stock master cylinder with these brakes? Wilwood instructions mention the possible need for one with a larger bore. I have to push the pedal a few inches before pressure builds and needs a really hard press to lock up the front brakes. Much better brakes than stock but seems to need a bit more travel and pressure than what I think it should. I have bled them 3 times.

this is my current master cylinder don't know what size it is.
Install some residual pressure valves in your front & rear brake lines (as close to your brake master cylinder) to get rid of that excessive pedal travel .
Wilwood makes the ones I installed
Are you using the stock master cylinder with these brakes? Wilwood instructions mention the possible need for one with a larger bore. I have to push the pedal a few inches before pressure builds and needs a really hard press to lock up the front brakes. Much better brakes than stock but seems to need a bit more travel and pressure than what I think it should. I have bled them 3 times.

this is my current master cylinder don't know what size it is.
These will solve your excessive brake pedal travel problem
 

0-60n4

Active Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2003
Thanks for the great troubleshooting tips everyone. I removed the old disabled line lock solenoid valve and the bypass around the proportioning valve, installed the 10 psi residual pressure valve for the rear brakes and bled them. Now I have awesome brakes!!!! Really pleased with them.

But one more question. This shinny bronze thing on the front brake line coming from the master cylinder: What's That For (WTF)?
 

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Turbo6inKY

Short Guy
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Thanks for the great troubleshooting tips everyone. I removed the old disabled line lock solenoid valve and the bypass around the proportioning valve, installed the 10 psi residual pressure valve for the rear brakes and bled them. Now I have awesome brakes!!!! Really pleased with them.

But one more question. This shinny bronze thing on the front brake line coming from the master cylinder: What's That For (WTF)?
That's the line lock solenoid. Mash the brakes, trigger that solenoid, and it'll hold pressure on the front and release it in the rear so you can do a burnout.
 

0-60n4

Active Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2003
I guess it doesn't hurt to leave it connected in the brake line? I'll have to see where that wire goes.
 

0-60n4

Active Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2003
On second thought, I will remove it while I'm at it. The wiring has already been cut anyway.
 

TType85

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
I got rid of the line lock on mine since like yours it was already electrically disconnected. No leaks but I was having issues with the front brakes that were on the car and that was one variable easy to take out.
 
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