I was tightening the lock washer on the drain from underneath the sink and when it felt tight, I stopped. Looking at the drain from on top, there is a gap, indicating I still need to tighten it. There is a rubber grommet on the drain to stop leaks. It doesn't leak but I'm afraid to tighten it anymore. Could I crack the sink? Should I have a helper press down on the drain while I tighten it? The sink is a quartz, to match the new granite counter tops. Thanks.
Installed new sink, plumber help needed
- Thread starter GNRick
- Start date
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
Rick did you use plumbers putty under the lip of the drain that touches the sink?
Secondly the rubber washer should be underneath the sink and also a cardboard washer looking thing so that the nut doesn't bind the rubber when tightening it..
You should see the putty squeezing out from underneath the drain from the inside of the sink, then when tight all you do is remove the excess with your finger and you should be okay.
You can give me a call too if you like..
Scot W.
What he said!
I am not a plumber but I did recently install a granite sink in my bathroom. The drain was different than any I have worked with. No plumbers putty was needed, a thin rubber washer went between the drain and top surface of sink. There was a thicker rubber washer below the sink.
I didn't think I needed putty, since the rubber washer is so thick. But since I left a gap, I will go ahead and push in some putty, then I'll continue to tighten it from under the sink. I guess that is the only way to do it unless someone pushes down on the strainer from above. I just didn't want to crack the sink, but I doubt the rubber grommet will do that. Thanks for the replies.
After thinking about that video for a week, I remembered that I put the rubber grommet on top of the sink, where the putty should go. That is why I couldn't get the strainer to sit flush. So I put the grommet under the sink like in the video, put putty on top where I had the grommet, and now life is good. Next project is to tear out the tile around the tub in the bathroom and re-do it. Thinking of going with 12X12 tile and doing the entire bathroom with it. I'm thinking of using a light tan color. Any thoughts? Can I drill through the tile for screws to install a towel rack? The bathroom is only about 10X6 so it shouldn't be too expensive. Any advice on how to tear out the old tile/cement board with the least amount of effort and mess?
Glad to hear you got the sink worked out, but are you sure you want to do tile work? I've done it and can tell you it's a PITA to get done right. The best way to do it is wait until it's warm enough outside so cold air won't get in. You will most likely have to remove the wall in a section and replace it depending on how old it is.
I had screwed the cement board to the studs, then tiled over it. I left the drywall in place. So I'm thinking maybe if I chip out a verticle row of tiles, I can run my power saw up the cement board with a plunge cut, then maybe remove the cement board depending on where the screws are. Then I would repeat the process until the entire board is removed. The tile is on three sides of the tub.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ML3wo4vYPI&feature=player_detailpage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ML3wo4vYPI&feature=player_detailpage
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