I'm trying to decide on a pre bent cage...

So this forum goes back decades and no one here has a cage from S&W, Chassis Engineering, Chris Altons Chassis Works, Midwest Chassis, or Rhodes race cars?
 
The real racers are busy working on their cars and can give two sh!ts about this forum. Most of them left years ago. With that said, I have heard nothing but good things about S&W.. That is where I am going to buy my loop and I will fab the rest myself. And yes I am typnig this as I change my valve springs...lol
 
Im in the process of installing my S&W 10point . I'm only putting in six of the 10 points . The rear bars go though the back seat which I don't like . Il prob end up redoing them so I can retain m back seat . Also need to bend the door bars to angle them Down to weld to the frame .

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Haywire is installing his S&W right now too. He got the rear bars bent to go through the package tray. The angle is not right. Needs to be bent more. The hoop fit good. Don't know about the side bars yet.
 
I had the s&w rear downbars bent 12 degrees more than they came, should fit like a champ now. I also made up some 45s to attach the doorbars to the floor like mentioned above. I went with a prebent kit to get me in the ballpark but i knew going in that i'd have to do some modifying to suit my pickyness. I'm almost certain you wont find a 12 point prebent cage kit that fits right out of the box that you'll be happy with. If youre picky and dont have access to bending equipment and some patience you will probably end up disappointed.
 
My door bar didn't come out to shabby considering I used a harbor fright bender
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My Wild Rides one will be going in this weekend!
 
Dank gn- can you still open the door with those bars in place? It looks like it goes right across the handle
 
My door bars from my wild rides kit look very similar to those. They told me I might have to cut the door latch rod down and shorten it so you wouldn't have to pull the handle out so far.
 
My door bars from my wild rides kit look very similar to those. They told me I might have to cut the door latch rod down and shorten it so you wouldn't have to pull the handle out so far.
o_O

That should't be so. I would be disappointed this was overlooked or ignored when it was being designed.
 
It's some fabric I picked up @Joann's Fabric - my headliner was doing the sag so I took it off, cleaned the board and put this on with spray adhesive. Same thing on the roll cage foam.It's been in over 10 years w/ no problems.
 
o_O

That should't be so. I would be disappointed this was overlooked or ignored when it was being designed.

When I talked to the guy before ordering, he specifically told me that I would need to cut the rod. Turned out I only have to do it on the passenger side as my driver's side handle needs less travel to open the latch.
 
I would just have one done if you are picky. I have installed a few prebent ones and none really fit that well IMO especially the ones that run down the a pillar
Mike
 
I agree with Mike. Unless you are very skilled at doing the cage yourself, 8 hours of total travel time is nothing. There are benefits of d-i-y kits,saving $$, spending time with your car, making it exactly the way you want it, I understand that part but I wanted my cage to certify to a certain time and my chassis guy guaranteed it. I wanted the bars behind the dash also, never know I may want to remove the dash to freshen it up after 5 years or to add or delete wiring. I have seen cages that would have had some design changes on the halos or trying to save the back seats. The end result is my safety, If the man says that I need an x brace in front of my back seat to tie the rails in with the bars in the trunk, so be it. When it comes back I will cut vertical slits in my seat foam, then upohlstery, and fit it back in place. On my last car the upohlstery shop had sewn velcro so that I could remove the seat with ease for maintenace. The finished product was very nice.
 
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