I'm creating flush mount quarter windows

McClean

I am a thief. Dont do business with me.
Joined
Jul 13, 2009
After seeing the photos on here of the "frenched" quarter glass, I have been wanting to flush mount mine. I think I have found a good way to do it.

I started with aircraft grade 6 mil polycarbonate glazing which has UV protectant, and a coating scratch resistance and water repelling (think Rain-x).

This material can be formed into any shape imaginable and is extremely strong,

So I have created a form to make these peices. I will be using Sikaflex to glue them in. Here are some starter photos, please excuse the body work . . . repairing the factory body seams.
 

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Careful on the Rain-x. The Sikaflex may not stick to it. Also you may want to use a black etching primer around the perimeter of the window. This will help the sealant stick and leave a clean line. I've considered doing it with glass but found it not to be cost effective. (yet);) Post pics.

Mike Barnard
 
I would love to ask. How much? But you have to be a vendor to sell them. So How much would it cost for a set? LOL
Can the inside edge be tinted like factory so the body cant be seen.
 
I'm sorry, what I meant to communicate was that the polycarbonate has a film that acts like rain-x and is scratch resistant. I'm not putting rain-x on them.

My plan is to paint a "frit" area around the edge to mimick the factory look. I have a test piece I am working with now so I'll let everyone know how it turns out. I'm sure if everything works out and people are interested I could work to become a vendor.

Not sure why the Sikaflex wouldn't work, Its a 1 stage bonder for glazing. I guess I could look for an alternate 2 stage bonder specific for polymers but I have 4 tubes of the Sika.
 
I'm sorry, what I meant to communicate was that the polycarbonate has a film that acts like rain-x and is scratch resistant. I'm not putting rain-x on them.

My plan is to paint a "frit" area around the edge to mimick the factory look. I have a test piece I am working with now so I'll let everyone know how it turns out. I'm sure if everything works out and people are interested I could work to become a vendor.

Not sure why the Sikaflex wouldn't work, Its a 1 stage bonder for glazing. I guess I could look for an alternate 2 stage bonder specific for polymers but I have 4 tubes of the Sika.

Do it. This community needs all the support it can get.
 
Cool !!!
I was just looking at the glass today on my car to determine how much curve it would actually take to do these in glass. It doesnt look to have much curve it.

Bryan
 
I also have been looking to get this done on my car ever since I saw a picture of someone who did it. Keep us Posted.
 
I really do not need any more reasons to spend $$$ on this damn car and then shit like this shows up. Count me in. My ride needs painted in a year or 2 anyway.

:D
 
Man that would be great if someone finds an affordable way to do this,because my windows suck!Git-r-done buddy!
 
Ok here's an update:

I've been extremely busy with other customers so time on my stuff was very limited.

What I've come up with is that the side windows should not be installed purely relying on an adhesive for securing. I'm sure some people here will chime in on why they disagree but you should know I work with 4 Automotive glass manufacturers and have investigated this thoroughly. The reasons range from negative pressure at speed, to NVH and everything in between.

With that being said I felt it was imperative to create a part that was a "bolt in" item. I found a way to do this using stainless cap screws; i set them roughly 6.5 mils into the material and there is plenty of clamping force and strength. I will be adding an epoxy to this to ensure the strength remains.

I also found a way to create the frit area and tried it on a test piece. It looks really good but I'm still trying to hide where the cap screws mount. It seems the material shears when drilled and leaves a "white" look to the plastic. I may have found a solution but It will have to wait until at least Wednesday for investigation.

See attached photos for progress (side note*** the glass is slightly mis-formed due to my impatience when pulling the piece out of the oven)

Phoneguy:

There isn't much curve to it until the glass is removed, then you realize the damn thing is totally convex! I assumed it would only curve along the Y axis . . . boy was I wrong.
 

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These windows can be tinted just like any other. The tactile feel is nearly identical to glass. I will be tinting my test piece to get a idea of how the final pieces will look. I've been very busy this week so this weekend will be the only time I have to spend on this. I will update as I see results.

Regards,

Brian
 
Update:

Found an adhesive that seems to work with the polycarb. Still experimenting with the depth for the socket screws though. I'm trying two methods (thru hole with adhesive backfill, 5.5 mil deep with dye).

I have added the frit to the test piece and reinstalled. See photos.

More to come......
 

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Looks really clean.....Mr. Clean! I really, really hope these get to a point where they can be purchased. Good WORK!
 
Update:

Found an adhesive that seems to work with the polycarb. Still experimenting with the depth for the socket screws though. I'm trying two methods (thru hole with adhesive backfill, 5.5 mil deep with dye).

I have added the frit to the test piece and reinstalled. See photos.

More to come......

PM sent

Bryan
 
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