My MAF died the other day. First thought it was the wires, so I made a new harness, which came out really clean. But the problem was still there, intermittenty. If I squeezed on the circuit board housing, the motor would cough and try to die. I tore it apart and found the problems, but the components were far too small to fix. I picked up the phone and called everywhere but no one had a MAF. They had to be ordered and it was a 2 day delivery. I need my car for work so that wasnt an option. I found an autozone in rancho cucamonga that had 1. they said it was the only one in southern california. So I picked it up for only 45 bucks with my old core.
I was thinking how nice it was going to be to drive to work without having to pull over 10 times to smack my MAF with a screwdriver to get me another 3 miles before it dies again. Well I got alot more than that. I quickly gave it about half throttle and the turbo spooled up so fast I thought I was on LSD. The motor wound up REALLY fast and my car was all over the road at half throttle. I tried it again and the motor responded like I never thought was possible. My rich idle problem Ive always had is GONE. I usually have between BLM's pegging at 90 at idle to around 110, and 128 at cruise. Now its amazingly stable. Even when I had the LS1 MAF and translator, the car never ran like that, and it even had the rich idle problem, so I never thought the MAF was the issue. Plus I never had a code 34 and my AF readings were always good...until a few weeks back I noticed the WOT numbers were fluctuating every time I went WOT. It was the first sign of failure I guess. So all Im saying is, if your motor isnt winding up like you think it should, or you have a BLM spread between cruise and idle...just replace the MAF. For 45 bucks, I dont know why anyone would hesitate when the results can be so good. By the way, its a remanufactured AC MAF. Its ina cardone box, but all the internal components are AC..it still has AC printed on the board. Only thing they change is the connector plug is sideways and they've fixed the problem with the internal wires connecting the plug pins to the circuit board.
I was thinking how nice it was going to be to drive to work without having to pull over 10 times to smack my MAF with a screwdriver to get me another 3 miles before it dies again. Well I got alot more than that. I quickly gave it about half throttle and the turbo spooled up so fast I thought I was on LSD. The motor wound up REALLY fast and my car was all over the road at half throttle. I tried it again and the motor responded like I never thought was possible. My rich idle problem Ive always had is GONE. I usually have between BLM's pegging at 90 at idle to around 110, and 128 at cruise. Now its amazingly stable. Even when I had the LS1 MAF and translator, the car never ran like that, and it even had the rich idle problem, so I never thought the MAF was the issue. Plus I never had a code 34 and my AF readings were always good...until a few weeks back I noticed the WOT numbers were fluctuating every time I went WOT. It was the first sign of failure I guess. So all Im saying is, if your motor isnt winding up like you think it should, or you have a BLM spread between cruise and idle...just replace the MAF. For 45 bucks, I dont know why anyone would hesitate when the results can be so good. By the way, its a remanufactured AC MAF. Its ina cardone box, but all the internal components are AC..it still has AC printed on the board. Only thing they change is the connector plug is sideways and they've fixed the problem with the internal wires connecting the plug pins to the circuit board.