I need help dialing this engine in please!

MissMyTurbo

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Nov 21, 2016
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I just set up my signature, I hope this works as I have never asked for help before. First of all, I would like to thank everyone who has answered all the numerous questions asked before as you have certainly helped me while building my engine! After getting it built and dropped in and bolted up, me and my friend got it running and took it on a few test drives to get a few kinks worked out. I've put maybe 50 miles on the car in the last month but it just did not run right. I'm running 93 octane gas, no other alky, meth, or whatever. I bought the car just over a year ago with a wiped #3 exhaust lobe and lots of metal in the oil so I replaced all the bearings, cam, lifters, heads, rockers and had the turbo rebuilt.
During the few test drives, the turbo kicked in and pulled our heads off our shoulders! Holy crap! But only for a second, maybe 2, then it was like shutting off the key. The engine died at 75 MPH. Let off the gas pedal and it would start up again. Stomp the gas and it would die. Then when we came to a stop sign, the engine would die, I had to feather the gas to keep it running for a few seconds then it would idle up and take care of itself. When I power brake it, It would build boost, smoke the tires for a second, then it would sputter and die, I had to crank the engine and re-start it.
I had Champion 103 plugs gapped at 30, then 25, no change in performance. However, I noticed that the plugs are wet and they have carbon around the tip and smell like gas.
I took a few days off the car because I work for a living, and the next weekend I tried to start it, it cranks and cranks very strong but will not start.
I pulled the plugs, very wet again. I put Champion 104 gapped at 30, still no start. I pulled them back out and they are very wet and have carbon like the 103 plugs did.

I bought NOID lights and checked the injector pulse, it blinks on all 6.
I bought a spark light, all 6 plugs get spark according to the light.
I bought a fuel pressure gauge, I have 45psi with the key on, but the pressure drops really fast, like down to 20 in five minutes with the key off. When I drove the car the pressure stayed at 45, never wavered up or down, but now it will not start.
The exhaust has been blowing wet black stuff out the tail pipes, could be be raw gas? But I think only when it first starts, not while it WAS running.
I pulled the UP PIPE off and sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body and it backfires maybe once but no signs of life other than that.

The TPS is set to .42
I have a CODE 23 on the ScanMaster
The IAC goes to 140 when I try to start the engine
I just got done changing the fuel filter with a new AC Delco
YES there is gas in the tank! I just put 7 gallons in it


Before the engine died, I went through the ScanMaster at all the settings and everything looked OK, O2 was sensing, cross counts working, IAC adjusting in low numbers, but that was a couple weeks ago, I can't remember all the numbers and I cannot give you any numbers now since the engine just flat out will not start.

Is there something I am missing? What would you do next?

Thank you in advance! You guys rock!
 

Gene Van Horn

Active Member
Feb 20, 2013
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How do you know the fuel pressure never wavered? When the car went into boost the pressure should rise with the pounds of boost. One to one. 45 at idle, 15 pounds boost = 60 fuel pressure. This a must but doesn’t explain all of your symptoms. I have gauge on my hood so I can see mine. MAT sensor is code 23. Is your translator set properly? Perhaps someone with more knowledge will chime in.
 

Reggie West

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TurboBuick.Com Supporter!
May 28, 2001
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If you are smelling gas then its running rich. Did you go to bigger injectors and get a matching chip? What are the setting on the Translator?

Your fuel pressure should be set at 38 with the vacuum line off. That might help trim it out some too.
 

NY Twin Turbo

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Dec 10, 2014
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Verify what chip you have. Then get back to us.

Verify your injectors match your chip. Then get back to us.

Verify that your fuel pressure is set at the setting recommended by the chip maker (vacuum line off at idle when setting and usually between 43 and 45 psi). Then get back to us

Verify that your fuel pressure drops somewhere into the 30's when you reconnect your vacuum line. And also that it rises 1:1 when boost climbs. At 0-boost/0-vacuum it should be back at your base setting and then clime 1psi for every psi of boost. Then get back to us.

Forget all that other crap you mentioned for now. Start there. Then onto other possibilities later. One thing at a time.
 
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MissMyTurbo

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Nov 21, 2016
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How do you know the fuel pressure never wavered? When the car went into boost the pressure should rise with the pounds of boost. One to one. 45 at idle, 15 pounds boost = 60 fuel pressure. This a must but doesn’t explain all of your symptoms. I have gauge on my hood so I can see mine. MAT sensor is code 23. Is your translator set properly? Perhaps someone with more knowledge will chime in.
I had a fuel gauge taped to my windshield as I drove the car.
How do I set the Translator properly? It came with no paperwork, I thought it was set up from the beginning
 

MissMyTurbo

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Nov 21, 2016
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If you are smelling gas then its running rich. Did you go to bigger injectors and get a matching chip? What are the setting on the Translator?

Your fuel pressure should be set at 38 with the vacuum line off. That might help trim it out some too.
I bought the car with the injectors and chip already installed and running. Also, how do i set the regulator without the vacuum line off without the engine running?
What settings on the translator do you use?
 

MissMyTurbo

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Nov 21, 2016
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Verify what chip you have. Then get back to us.

I read the sticker on both TT chips I got with the car, they are both set for 93 and 18psi and I think 20 degrees, I'll verify that. I'll pull an injector and verify that as well.

Verify your injectors match your chip. Then get back to us.

Verify that your fuel pressure is set at the setting recommended by the chip maker (vacuum line off at idle when setting and usually between 43 and 45 psi). Then get back to us

Engine will not idle, how do i do that?

Verify that your fuel pressure drops somewhere into the 30's when you reconnect your vacuum line. And also that it rises 1:1 when boost climbs. At 0-boost/0-vacuum it should be back at your base setting and then clime 1psi for every psi of boost. Then get back to us.

Again, engine will not run or idle, and when I drove the car the fuel pressure never went up or down during accelerating or decelerating, and the engine stalled when boost hit or coming to a complete stop.
It acted like it ran out of fuel or spark even though it would idle and drive.

When I drove the car and floored it, the boost just started in, the car pulled really hard but after a second it shut down and the fuel gauge never wavered, never moved.

Forget all that other crap you mentioned for now. Start there. Then onto other possibilities later. One thing at a time.
 

NY Twin Turbo

All the good stuff.....Times 2.
Dec 10, 2014
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Westchester NY
I bought the car with the injectors and chip already installed and running. Also, how do i set the regulator without the vacuum line off without the engine running?
What settings on the translator do you use?
The regulator can be set without the engine running by running the fuel pump and not starting the car. You must apply power to the pump,and run it. Then turn the allen head screw on top clockwise to turn it up, or counter to turn it down. If the engine is not running you do not need to disconect the vacuum line. But what's the big deal? You said the car will start. Just start it, pull the vac line off it, adjust it, re-install vac line, clamp it with a zip-tie, and your done. Then get back to us.

Forget the translator for now. Do this first.
 

NY Twin Turbo

All the good stuff.....Times 2.
Dec 10, 2014
2,711
1,083
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Westchester NY
I bought the car with the injectors and chip already installed and running. Also, how do i set the regulator without the vacuum line off without the engine running?
What settings on the translator do you use?
Oops, yes. You did say the car is currently not running. So again. You can apply power to the pump prime connector under the hood by adding power to that little black connector with the grey wire going to it hanging out of your harness behind your alternator. This will make the pump run with the ignition off.
 

Pronto

Chaos is a ladder.
Dec 9, 2002
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Translator instructions http://turbotweak.com/forum/index.php?threads/translator-instructions.1688/
Rule one with a rebuild. Don't beat on it until every system is functioning correctly.
Check the grounds on the back of the head.
Get some NGK UR5s
Clean the IAC and redo the TPS/IAC dance
On a side note, I hope you didn't use the oil cooler lines. Good chance there metal was sitting in cooler and now in your engine and rebuilt turbo...
 

Chuck Leeper

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May 28, 2001
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MAT code... A bad MAT sensor can feed bad temp reading to the ecm. IE: Shows that the MAT temp is 40 below zero. That will call for a ton of added fuel.
Furthermore, if there's fuel wetting the plugs, it's time to take a look at the oil. Fuel contamination will kill the bearings.
 

MissMyTurbo

New Member
Nov 21, 2016
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The regulator can be set without the engine running by running the fuel pump and not starting the car. You must apply power to the pump,and run it. Then turn the allen head screw on top clockwise to turn it up, or counter to turn it down. If the engine is not running you do not need to disconect the vacuum line. But what's the big deal? You said the car will start. Just start it, pull the vac line off it, adjust it, re-install vac line, clamp it with a zip-tie, and your done. Then get back to us.

Forget the translator for now. Do this first.
No, I said the car used to start. It sat for the week and now it will not start. That's what I need help with dialing it in. It cranks very good, it's got a brand new hi torque starter, I feel each piston hit compression, the coil puts spark to each plug, the noid light flashes on each injector as I crank it but it will not start. I think it's flooded because the plugs are wet and smell like gas.
 

MissMyTurbo

New Member
Nov 21, 2016
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Oops, yes. You did say the car is currently not running. So again. You can apply power to the pump prime connector under the hood by adding power to that little black connector with the grey wire going to it hanging out of your harness behind your alternator. This will make the pump run with the ignition off.
It's got a hot wire, 30 amp fuse on the driver inner fender. The pump runs with the key on unless I pull the fuse. I adjusted the pressure up and down just to make sure it would do it but I put it back on 45
 

MissMyTurbo

New Member
Nov 21, 2016
22
0
1
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Translator instructions http://turbotweak.com/forum/index.php?threads/translator-instructions.1688/
Rule one with a rebuild. Don't beat on it until every system is functioning correctly.
Check the grounds on the back of the head.
Get some NGK UR5s
Clean the IAC and redo the TPS/IAC dance
On a side note, I hope you didn't use the oil cooler lines. Good chance there metal was sitting in cooler and now in your engine and rebuilt turbo...
Thanks for the link! When I get home I'm going to look at the translator. Also, the oil cooler was never used when I got the car. I've got two new rubber lines but I don't have the adapter that goes behind the oil filter, so it's still not in use
 

MissMyTurbo

New Member
Nov 21, 2016
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Plug in the MAT and velcro it to the intake pipe. TT chip doesn't really use the MAT.
That's the intake air temp, right? The LS1 MAP sensor has that built in, I have a 5 wire harness plugged in, 3 to the translator, 2 wires to the temp plug.