How are the "new" Eagle cranks working out?

Mike T

Well-Known Member
Thought I'd ask since they have been out long enough.
Are the journals measuring in spec, do they need a special keyway, is the rear flange machined so that the flex plate doesn't need modified, any balancing issues ?

Another question would be that since they are 4140 are they going to flex more than the other forged cranks out there or would the material differences only be an issue after we're north of 600 HP?
 

Gene Van Horn

Active Member
Mike T, i cant really answer all those tech questions,sorry. I can tell you that i have that crank and eagle rods in my engine along with being internally balanced. When i picked up the motor the builder told me he was confident i could push 1,000 hp thru it, i dont but i been pushing it pretty hard since i put the car back together in may and its been running flawlessly the whole time.
 

Mike T

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the response Gene that's encouraging news. Sounds like it didn't need too much work or your builder would have had his hand out.

I know aftermarket cranks have come a long way but once in a while you still hear that random horror story.....I think sometimes the problem is with the installer rather than the part.
With that said I can't see why with all of the modern machining techniques of today that QC problems still exists. I know it still happens because a builder I know just bought a 4340 crank and the journals were all over the place and the rear seal area had a problem. The vendor was contacted but he really didn't know what the resolution should be so the crank was sent out for machining locally.
Why wouldn't a vendor or whoever did the final machine work have a secondary inspection/measurement of the journals before shipment to guarantee this doesn't happen?

It would be good to see guys post the actual measurement of their cranks (all brands) as received from vendor X,Y or Z ...........not just some sloppy guestimate from a HF caliper but real data to establish who really has the most reliable consistent product. If this Eagle measures good It seems to be a very good value even though it's made of 4140 material.
 

Gene Van Horn

Active Member
Well Mike like i said i dont know 4340 from 4140 from 440 but i do know if came to Robs shop messed up he would just send it back. He didnt like some of the bearings he got for me so he sent them back,did cause another week delay but thats just his way, they all have thier own ways and ideas about how to do things,i trust him and that is all i need. Forget about the money, find one you like and trust to do the work properly,can always get more money:)
 

Gene Van Horn

Active Member
Im driving all the way to philly,about 2 hours tommorrow just to get new turbo put on,can i put on turbo,of course. Can i put on turbo and tune car accordingly, not so well so i let Jim do it because i trust only him to work on the car. Thats what you need in your machinist/engine builder also.
 

m233roller

Well-Known Member
Well Iv'e had a BA crank and 5 Eagle cranks and every damn one of them had to be turned 10-10 to get all the journals right. Some weren't knurled for the rear main seal but are now.
 

GBGN1

stroked
Mike T, i cant really answer all those tech questions,sorry. I can tell you that i have that crank and eagle rods in my engine along with being internally balanced. When i picked up the motor the builder told me he was confident i could push 1,000 hp thru it, i dont but i been pushing it pretty hard since i put the car back together in may and its been running flawlessly the whole time.

I wouldn't worry about the crank but the 109 block will be what fails
 

Mike Licht

I was here first
The latest Eagle cranks are rated for 1000HP, We have built a few engines here with them and never had to do any machine work to them. They are IMO the best deal going
Mike
 

turbo nasty

Turbo Dojo / MNTR
Eagle forged crank and rods in my engine this is second one with the same crank Cracked one block during a Dyno blunder and reused the recip assembly in a different block and crank checked out fine...so far so good.
 

TurboBuRick

Moderator
Staff member
Eagle forged crank and rods in my engine this is second one with the same crank Cracked one block during a Dyno blunder and reused the recip assembly in a different block and crank checked out fine...so far so good.

Same here. I cracked a block and reused all the internals. Thats got to say something for the rotator.
 

Mike T

Well-Known Member
I'm considering the external version and the only reason for that is that I already have the external BHJ balancer and JW flex plate.
 

Mike T

Well-Known Member
Ok........ I bought the Eagle stock stroke external balanced crank. This particular motor is my "lab rat" so I'm trying to rebuild it around parts that I already have to keep the budget low.

I bought the pistons, rods, BHJ external balancer and JW flex plate from Dan @ DLS years ago and built the motor using the stock crank.
I regret not getting a complete internal balanced rotating assembly from him back then. Now that I've went external the Eagle seems to be the best/most economical choice for this motor. My ultimate goal is to have Dan build my stage II 153 block with all of his components but until then this one is it.

Pictures of this crank seem to be scarce so I'm going to add a few. I don't have measurements yet but the crank looks very, very nice!
 

Mike T

Well-Known Member
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Mike T

Well-Known Member
The crank is made of 4140 and the end of the box is labeled as such. I buy 100 percent that the 4340 boxes aren't meant to deceive anyone......
I think it's just a standard box that eagle uses to keep cost down since they only have a few 4140 cranks.

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84BuickGNYorkPA

Daily Driving Buick V-6 Turbo's 1979 - Present
The Eagle Crank I got this spring was good, except it was a stroker crank in a standard labeled box. The machine shop did not notice until final assembly. Now the King bearings are another story for a different thread. Long story short version, I lost the whole season, picked up the short block 10/22/15 from the machine shop and yes I had to pay for them to do the motor twice.

Chuck
 

bison

Moderator
Staff member
Why wouldn't a vendor or whoever did the final machine work have a secondary inspection/measurement of the journals before shipment to guarantee this doesn't happen?
I'm sure they would be glad to do this work but the problem is people ask how much. You're starting with a $500 overseas crank. Not a $3000 Crower crank which would also need to be checked over. I know DLS used to sell rotating groups. They were much better than what you would see on the market comparatively at that time. They were also more expensive than what you would see comparatively. Properly assembling an engine is not something most can accomplish accurately with common tools.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Kip

Well-Known Member
The Eagle Crank I got this spring was good, except it was a stroker crank in a standard labeled box. The machine shop did not notice until final assembly. Now the King bearings are another story for a different thread. Long story short version, I lost the whole season, picked up the short block 10/22/15 from the machine shop and yes I had to pay for them to do the motor twice.

Chuck


Where did you buy your parts?
 
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