hey everyone i'm back!!! miss me?


cookin with propane
okay so.. i saw there was a thread in my honor... sniff.. how sweet :)

anyway yeah.. i haven't been on here for awhile just because i've been busy.

i redid my website, its not finished yet but it documents the parts i've put on the car a little more in depth


a mysterious problem has popped up and once again my progress has slowed.. other than this problem, with the propane the car runs like a bat out of hell.

a rundown of the current "buildup"...

turbonetics stage 3 cheetah, rebuilt by yours truly!... connected to a 3" PVC home made cold air kit from home depot

accel coil on a hotair module, msd plugwires

ecm & electronics:
87 ecm with jay carter 93 chip, a MAF translator and a crappy Granatelli motorsports MAF.. i am looking for a stock LS1 maf right now. fiero electric fan

fuel system:
bluetops with stock appearing adj regulator, hotwired walbro 307

stock cracked piece of crap headers, atr up pipe, atr 2.5" downpipe, and a 3" flowtech cutout that is ALWAYS open. 3" catco cat and 3" single exhaust all the way back.. did i mention the cutout is always open?

bilstein shocks and BMR lower control arms, front triangle braces and backseat braces. metco driveshaft loop. 16" GTA wheels, 225/50's kumho ecsta supra's up front and 255/50's out back. the front wheels have 7/16" spacers.

of course yes, now i have the propane and it works wonders. the only problem is after being stolen and broken into so much, my car has developed weird ignition related problems. right now the current one is as follows..

it usuallly happens after a few minutes of driving on the highway.. the car will nose over, it will idle at the current RPM but if i give it any gas it will just go "blubbbb" and continue to slow down, like the coilpack just turned off, but the engine is still spinning due to the TC being locked up. this is what it feelsl ike, i know the TC should unlock, but really, it feels like what would happen if you turned the ignition off in a manual transmission car while going 80 on the highway. after a few seconds usually the car will come back to life and continue as if everythign was normal. the SES light will come on and bust out a "high Coolant temp sensor reading" which i beleive is code 14.. which says the coolant is 280+ for over 14 seconds... once the car goes back to normal the cts light goes back off.

this problem has also occured while stopped, and in this case the car usually will not restart for a minute or so, VERY VERY VERY VERY EMBARASSING.. I HATE WHEN THIS HAPPENS.

also, a few times i have gone WOT and right as the car was about to shift, it just turns off like so.. instead of the tires going up in a blaze of 1-2 shift glory, the car just stops. its great.

this seems cam sensor related.. can they go "bad" intermittently?

or coould it really be CTS related? does it actually control timing THAT MUCH?

_IF_ i could force myself to do the motor moutns and fix the headers AGAIN, then fix the clearance problem that is causing my false knock (header->dp contact), and borrow some slicks. with the boost cranked i have no doubt this car would run some mid 12s.

of course..... i have to find the time and the patience to do all of that. and when the car dies randomly on the highway, aroudn town, and when stopped at stoplights, i would rather just NOT DRIVE IT than put money and time into making it go faster... because it'll only be faster while it runs, if it puts 350 to the ground that is of no use to me if I cant just drive to the m'f'in movie theater with my girlfriend without having to coast off the exit ramp and sit on the side of the road for 5 minutes until the car wants to start again..

sooo... anyone want to help me love my car again? :D pretty please!?

cool 84

Got hotair?
I know how it feels. My fuelpump/injectors fuse would blow every once in a while. Sometimes it would go 3 months without blowing but it always happened when the car was at a slow roll or idling at a redlight. It was enough to make me paranoid and I always stayed in the right hand lane when I could so I could push it off the road easier.

I would start with the coolant sensor and wiring. Any scantool readings when this happens?


I agree with starting with the CTS. Change it out. Inexpensive and easy to change. SU109 part # at AutoZone I believe. It is used by the ECM to calculate/control timing, mixture, idle speed, TCC, EGR..... Youve already received the hint with the code 14.
When I put my first TR motor together some years back I was not used to all the sensors, FI, etc. etc. As many of us, carbed small block Chevy was my background at the time. I could not figure out why the car would not start. Thought I had checked everything. Until I plugged up a cheapo scantool and saw that the coolant temp was reading abnormally high, when the engine had never even ran yet. Changed the CTS and it started.

cool 84

Got hotair?
I had that same problem one time when I was too busy working to change the sensor. The only way to start it in the morning was to spray starting fluid in the filter lol redneck.